.300 Ultra Mag, 150Gr Swift Scirocco

[RFears]

What is this cartridge capable of, yardage. Sighted in 2" at 100, dead on, bullseye, at 300. Was also sightin a .308 Warbird, it was wild at 300, 6 in group. I am shooting a Nikon 2.5-10 56 on the .300. .308 Warbird has a Meopta on it. I am also looking at getting a .350 Remington Magnum barrel for my Oncore. Any ideas on that at all....

 

[J E Custom]

What is this cartridge capable of, yardage. Sighted in 2" at 100, dead on, bullseye, at 300. Was also sightin a .308 Warbird, it was wild at 300, 6 in group. I am shooting a Nikon 2.5-10 56 on the .300. .308 Warbird has a Meopta on it. I am also looking at getting a .350 Remington Magnum barrel for my Oncore. Any ideas on that at all....

The 300 RUM is capable of great accuracy and energy at Long distances.

They are at there best with 180 gr to 200 gr class bullets.

The 300 should whistle the 150 Swift if you want flat, But the lightest bullet I would
recomend for it is the 165s .

There are a lot of 30 calibers that would be better with lighter bullets (Smaller case capacity)
If that is as big a bullet you wanted to shoot.

J E CUSTOM

 

[RFears]

The 300 RUM is capable of great accuracy and energy at Long distances.

They are at there best with 180 gr to 200 gr class bullets.

The 300 should whistle the 150 Swift if you want flat, But the lightest bullet I would
recomend for it is the 165s .

There are a lot of 30 calibers that would be better with lighter bullets (Smaller case capacity)
If that is as big a bullet you wanted to shoot.

J E CUSTOM

Well not necessarily the light bullet is my choice, but it shoots great, it cuts the bulls eye at 300, three shot group, it groups sub moa at 100, cuts same hole, and goups about .5 at 300, i didnt complaim u know....But what is going on with .308 warbird? Lazzironi

 

[6mm]

Here is what I would do to quickly check out the warbird.
Clean it real well
Check mounts/rings to be sure their tight
If the first two don't fix it change out the scope and check action screws' torque
Next check barrel channel to be sure your not getting unwanted contact
Be absolutely positive your catridges are of good quality (seating depth, runout etc)
I guess if there is still an accuracy issue post again stating all that you've ruled out

Good luck..

 

[RFears]

New gun, moly coated bullets, 168gr barnesX Match hp. I will check out all mounting, first meopta scope, i am not sure about it. I have had really good luck with the upper end Nikons. MOA adjustments very accurate etc...

 

[MontanaRifleman]

The 300 RUM is capable of great accuracy and energy at Long distances.

They are at there best with 180 gr to 200 gr class bullets.

The 300 should whistle the 150 Swift if you want flat, But the lightest bullet I would
recomend for it is the 165s .

There are a lot of 30 calibers that would be better with lighter bullets (Smaller case capacity)
If that is as big a bullet you wanted to shoot.

J E CUSTOM

+1...

except the lightest bullets I would recommend for the 300 ultra would be 180's and higher. That's what it was made for. There are a lot of advantages to going with the larger bullets in the RUM. I zero mine @ 300 yds with the 180's @ 3400 fps. If you compare the trajectory of the 180's vs the 150's at lets say 3600 fps, zerod at 200 yds, the difference in drop @ 300 yds is only .3", 4.6" vs 4.3"

Would also recommend the 300 yd zero for a farther/flatter point blank range.

On your Warbird... some good inputs already...

Clean well... on cleaning, a lot of guys think they have a clean bore that is actually loaded with copper. Just because you get a clean patch doesn't mean the copper is out. Most solvents are medicore to poor at removing copper. The two best that I've used are Wipeout and Bore Tech Eliminator. With Bore Tech, the best way I've found to use it is to wet patch trhough, waiting a couple of minutes between passes until blue starts fading. Then soak and scrub with a nylon brush and wait for about 20 min. The blue will get heavy again. Do this until blue disappears. With Wipeout, spray it in and let soak for about 8 hours and dry patch out. do this until patches come out clean. Either of these methods WILL remove ALL copper.

After a good cleaning, make sure your bedding is clean and dry of solvents and other material. This WILL affect accuracy. I have proved it.

Make sure you recoil lug has good solid contact with stock bed.

Make sure action screws are not touching any part of the stock and the receiver has good contact with the bed. Use a torque wrench to tighten action screws to recommended torque.

Hopefully you have pillar or full aliminum bedded stock. If not, get that done. Stocks will compress over time and cause problems. Been there, done that.

Check scope bases and rings. Use torque wrench again.

If these dont work...

Swap out scope with known good scope to rule out the possibility of a bad scope.

Have the barrel crown checked and the bore scoped. The bore/throat may be fried, especially if many rounds have been fired through without cooling periods between shots.

Good shooting,

Mark

 

[RFears]

Great info folks. The warbird is brand new. Only rounds fired is their test rounds and 5 of mine, all moly coated. I am going to clean and fire again, if still a problem after checking all screws and above mentioned, scope will be tossed. Bedding and all is great, as lazzironi always does great job.....Thanks

 

[RFears]

Oh by the way, the 300 rum is dead bulls eye at 300 now. I usually site all my stuff around 2 inches high at 100, any other recomendations on that?