300 ultra accuracy problems

back to your ORIGINAL question, accuracy loss. My experience with the earlier mfg. SPS 300 RUM. was a shot out bbl after 272 rounds. I re-bbl'd with PAC-NOR and got to 832 rounds before "toast" again. I would strongly suggest you take rifle to someone who can use a borescope to check for "bad" stuff, IE: burned lead, or severe copper fouling..

Good suggestion.

What is the round count? I was under the impression it was near new with little break in from this in the first post.

"I ahve shot 40 target rounds thru the gun . and one deer"


Jeff
 
I shoot a 300 RUM also with Nosler Accubonds. I have cleaned the barrel with Boretech Copper Plus, when finished, used Barnes CR10. I can tell you Boretech did not get all the Copper fouling out. If your barrel is really loaded with Copper Fouling your groups will be terrible. CR10 is really aggressive but works.

Don
 
I shoot a 300 RUM also with Nosler Accubonds. I have cleaned the barrel with Boretech Copper Plus, when finished, used Barnes CR10. I can tell you Boretech did not get all the Copper fouling out. If your barrel is really loaded with Copper Fouling your groups will be terrible. CR10 is really aggressive but works.

Don

What is "BoreTech Copper Plus" ? I have never heard of it. I did use Barnes CR10 before and tested it against BorTech Eliminator. When the CR10 was done and no more blue on the patches , I went back in in with BoreTech Eliminator and got more Blue indicating copper was still present.

Jeff
 
built up and 300 Ultra from and 300 SPS . an houge stock with bedding block , Timmy trigger. teflon coated it and installed a muzzel brake . I had it shooting .63 at 100 yards with federal ammo bearclaws ,180 andit shot 180 XXX federals .68 100 yards . I ahve shot 40 target rounds thru the gun . and one deer . It has swarovski 4X12-50 BT scope which has been very accurate to 500 yards . Gun has been cleaned after each time shoot no copper build up in barrel , now my accuracy has went to crap . 1 1/2 " at 100 , also have checked FPS of AMMO and its within 35 FPS . Not sure what happen any help would be greatful . not sure where or what to check next ? any help woudl be appricated .:)
scope is loose:cool:
 
BoreTech Copper Plus is a stronger more aggressive version for Copper removal. Sinclair has it on line to purchase. There is variety within the product line for various applications. I'm not sure about your experience as it is reversed of mine.
I can speak further on mine though. I switched over from CR10 Bore-tech Copper Plus but after using it awhile I noticed my groups opened up. Knowing the load very well I developed and how my gun responds I became suspicious. So I cleaned the gun real good with Copper Plus, flushed out the barrel with brake cleaner, pushed thru with clean patches. Proceeded with CR10 and got a lot more blue patches, continued till they were white.

Next range trip the gun shot tight groups as usual. CR10 is nasty to deal with due to smell but gets the job done for me.

Don
 
Don, you must be refering to BoreTech CU+2? They don't show "copper plus" on their web site. Funny we have had just oposite results.

Jeff
 
Jeff,
Sorry buddy, you are correct it is CU+2 I used. I will say if you use CR10 and use bronze brushes vs the recommended Nylon type it will react with misleading blue patches, makes you think there is still fouling present.

Don
 
I have checked all scope and action screws , I shot mostly Barnes 180 Xxx and a few Barnes bear claws, with cleaning every time , I think I will take to my buddy has a bore scope and check for copper build up , I believe I bought gun used and it had 50 rounds thru it (guy said ) ? After this I will post back with results , thanks guys a lot of good info on cleaning here !
 
Jeff,
Sorry buddy, you are correct it is CU+2 I used. I will say if you use CR10 and use bronze brushes vs the recommended Nylon type it will react with misleading blue patches, makes you think there is still fouling present.

Don

I understand, I have not had a bronze brush for years. I use nylon and even have been using nickel coated jags for a long time too. Actually the CR-10 was showing clean (as in no blue at all) I dryed the bore and nutralized the bore by running a few patches with poroxide then went back in with BoreTech and got blue patches again till the boretech finally got the last of the copper. That trick of using poroxide between cleaners is a good plan. Mixing chemicals in a bore can result in some serious damage if your mix turns to an acid.

Jeff
 
Jeff,
Your so correct about mixing chemicals. The Automotive Brake Cleaner idea actually came from the Barnes website. They recommended after using CR10 to flush the bore with brake cleaner as it neutralizes any CR10 in the bore.

They recommend CRC Brakleen, Brake Parts Cleaner the Non-Chlorinated type.
It dries leaving no residue. I follow up with dry patches then coat the bore with Rem Oil. It really works great with no problems, been using that method for 2-yrs now.:D

Don
 
So poroxide neurtralizes the chemicals then?

Corey

I am no chemist, but this is what I was once told. It seemed like a good idea and I do between changing cleaners or when comparing products so I get accurate results and deminish the chances of bad juju. I have a small bottle I keep with my cleaners.

I have been using BoreTech products since 2008. I have not had a fouling issue since. I shoot a lot, round counts in the 1000's each year. One of the huge bennifits for me I get from Boretech is, as I mentioned before, no longer having to put oil in my bore. Now none of my rifles are stored for a long time with out shooting, but I can clean, store it, and a few weeks later run a few dry patches down the bore and go. I have proven accuracy with 4 different rifles now to hold first shot accuracy to as far as 1400 yards with 1/2 moa results. That to me is a huge thing. I never liked the thought of waiting to clean till I loose accuracy. That just seems wrong to me. I like keeping a clean bore at all times and like not having to worry about fouling shots.

Works for me.:)

Jeff
 
I am no chemist, but this is what I was once told. It seemed like a good idea and I do between changing cleaners or when comparing products so I get accurate results and deminish the chances of bad juju. I have a small bottle I keep with my cleaners.

I have been using BoreTech products since 2008. I have not had a fouling issue since. I shoot a lot, round counts in the 1000's each year. One of the huge bennifits for me I get from Boretech is, as I mentioned before, no longer having to put oil in my bore. Now none of my rifles are stored for a long time with out shooting, but I can clean, store it, and a few weeks later run a few dry patches down the bore and go. I have proven accuracy with 4 different rifles now to hold first shot accuracy to as far as 1400 yards with 1/2 moa results. That to me is a huge thing. I never liked the thought of waiting to clean till I loose accuracy. That just seems wrong to me. I like keeping a clean bore at all times and like not having to worry about fouling shots.

Works for me.:)

Jeff


Amen. I think we got on the BoreTech boat in the same year. I have never once looked back since using them. I even use their cleaning rods and brushes.
 
So finally got to take a look at the barrel , clean as a whistle . Back to ammo is what it was I believe chrono was wrong I had a friend load some mild 3145 fps barns Xxx with a buddy's load work up first group @100 .58 shot 3 groups like this one group 3 shot was .49 , my ultra is back :D , I am glad what I went thru to help me figure out problems . ,I will try to post pics of targets have to figure out how to upload from IPAD , thanks for all the help . BD gun)
 
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