300 RUM Issues...

what you are pointing appears to be marking left from a rough bolt face. as for increasing your load 2gr. in 1 step i would try 1gr. and then .5gr increments from there.
 
what you are pointing appears to be marking left from a rough bolt face. as for increasing your load 2gr. in 1 step i would try 1gr. and then .5gr increments from there.

The only reason I think it's a pressure sign is that it doesn't show up on every round and seems to disappear if I drop the load down. If I do step up the load, I obviously would only do .5gr increments. I was just asking if it would be realistic to get a huge jump in speed with only a couple extra grains.
 
as one gentleman said find a chony and verify speed. or change powder and ck for similar results. i dont as a rule load just for velocity. i will watch for pressure signs and shoot for my best group. sometimes alot of powder is burned prior to finding the group that i am happy with. and yes i own a chronogragh. my 300rum is becoming a 7mm/300wm, much better round
 
As someone else stated, I don't think you are seeing pressure signs. The markings on the brass seem to be from a poorly machined bolt face, (easily repaired) on all my ultra mags, high pressure is evidenced by a round circle from the ejector imprinted into the case head and notably loose primer pockets when reloading. In my opinion you have a ways to go. If your gun has a long throat, you could need some more powder to over come it. With a factory remington 700 you should be able to load you oal close to 3.670 as a max. This will get you closer to the lands and reduce pressure further allowing for more powder. Have you checked the accuracy of your powder scale?
 
I don't want to go any longer than my current loads because otherwise they won't fit the magazine. I haven't checked the accuracy of my scale, but I will do that as well. Thanks for the advice!
 
Load up some rounds in 1/2 grain steps till you see a definite ejector mark. It will be very shiny half to full moon and noticeable stiffer bolt lift and back off a full grain. That should be your max load. In factory rums you can generally load them hotter than match barrels as they are a little looser and have a ton of free bore. You should have no problem running those 200 abs at 3000-3050 from a 26" tube using retumbo, h1000, or r25.

Reuben
 
200 AB loaded with 94 Gr. of Retumbo, C.O.L. 3.780", Rem brass, and Fed 215 primer clocked 3160 fps out of my stock Sendero barrel. I see no pressure signs with that load out of 2 different rifles. I agree with other posts, I do not see any ejector marks on the cases you pictured. Ejector marks from pressure will be a small semicircle near the rim of the case.
 
Factory barrels are button rifled. What this means is that a button is drawn through a bored barrel and the button finishes the bore and cuts the rifling. It is my understanding that a button is used for about 10 barrels and then discarded. If the barrel was cut with a new button, the barrel should be very close to spec on the + side and velocity should be fast. If the barrel was the last one cut with the particular button, the dimensions could be on the - side and cause slower velocity. These measurements will be in the .0001's of difference. This is what contributes to fast barrels and slow barrels. The velocity can often vary by as much as 150 fps. The first time I ever read about this was in an issue of shooting times magazine where they were talking about 7mm STW and the difference between fast barrels and slow barrels.

I am not sure if this is your problem or not. I would want to get some velocities from some other loads run through a chrono and then verify the drops with those before coming to any conclusions. As I have stated before, one of my chronos says 3175 with a 215 berger and the other chrono says 3075, but my drops show right at 3000. The drops are the important part. On the other hand, my gun with factory remington 180's shows 3350 accros my slow chrono and my handloads with 180 accubonds match the drops with 3350 as the velocity with 97 grains of H-1000 and seated to magazine length. I seat my bullets to within .010 of the magazine length and they still feed fine. The extra seating length lowers pressure and allows for more powder.
 
No serious pressure in any of those pictures.

There is no reason you can't get 3050-3100fps safely with 94-96 grains of Retumbo and the 200 Accubonds.
 
Factory barrels are button rifled. What this means is that a button is drawn through a bored barrel and the button finishes the bore and cuts the rifling. It is my understanding that a button is used for about 10 barrels and then discarded. If the barrel was cut with a new button, the barrel should be very close to spec on the + side and velocity should be fast. If the barrel was the last one cut with the particular button, the dimensions could be on the - side and cause slower velocity. These measurements will be in the .0001's of difference. This is what contributes to fast barrels and slow barrels. The velocity can often vary by as much as 150 fps. The first time I ever read about this was in an issue of shooting times magazine where they were talking about 7mm STW and the difference between fast barrels and slow barrels.

I am not sure if this is your problem or not. I would want to get some velocities from some other loads run through a chrono and then verify the drops with those before coming to any conclusions. As I have stated before, one of my chronos says 3175 with a 215 berger and the other chrono says 3075, but my drops show right at 3000. The drops are the important part. On the other hand, my gun with factory remington 180's shows 3350 accros my slow chrono and my handloads with 180 accubonds match the drops with 3350 as the velocity with 97 grains of H-1000 and seated to magazine length. I seat my bullets to within .010 of the magazine length and they still feed fine. The extra seating length lowers pressure and allows for more powder.


Hey Dave whats up? Its Randy here from Worland. Anyways I do a bit of long range shooting / hunting also. I shoot a 300 rum and 7mag. I have been reading the thread on how possible velocities are off from Chrono readings. I have a bit of news that all of you probably are familiar with but thought I would drop a line anyway. When shooting @ long range and your clicks do not correlate to what drop charts portray them to be the actual B.C. of the bullet varies. I know a couple of summers ago I was shooting 7mm bergers and different lot #'s of ammo would have different B.C. from what is advertised on boxes. The 7mm Berger 168's were shooting around .580-.590 B.C. versus what was advertised on the box .617. With a different lot # they would shoot a tad over .600. Very seldom have I seen Bergers shoot their actual B.C. The Berger 180's seem to be close in the 7mm and come in around .650 and advertised is .659. Jlk bullets have a bit higher B.C. with the same j4 jacket.

I have been shooting the .300 rum for some time on factory barrel and used to shoot 185 bergers with 98.7 grains of retumbo @ 3475 fps. This was also shooting around a .750 group @ 100 yds. I since have made the gun into a Semi Custom and is now getting a Brux Barrel, Wyatt box, HS Stock, Muzzle Break, Cerakote, Timney Trigger, Blue Printed, Flute cut bolt, and Huskemaw scope. My buddy has the same gun that was built so we will both be running 185's trying to get them dialed in as above.... Sorry for the slight derail of the thread but overall I think all of our goals are to share information and help everyone to shoot & reload as good as we can! Have a great day everyone!:D
 
Randy,

Good point about the B.C. The only reason that I didn't address BC was due to lots of people saying that the Bergers were pretty consistant with the BC's. When you start tweaking BC and velocity, it can get messy. My 300 grain Bergers from my 338 rum are spot on with Bergers' advertised BC. I guess I will run some numbers with my 215's and see how they do.

As to the OP, I had always heard that the 200 gr NAB's were pretty consistant with their BC also.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 12 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top