300 RUM Bullet Crimping

[Korhil78]

Either of those bullets will work well for you. The rock chucker will do you just fine for a while. Before I found this site, I made a bad decision and bought a Lyman tmag press kit. It was horrible. So I sold it and bought a redding t-7 turret press. I absolutely love that press. As you decide to upgrade your stuff, you can come on here and sell your old items. There are always new reloaders coming on board that can utilize your old stuff. That way you get some of your money back.

I have gone to all redding dies for reloading because I just think that they are made better. Just my opinion. There are many things that you can upgrade to later. I got super tired of dispensing powder and weighing on a scale so I bought the RCBS Chargemaster 1500. That is also something that you can save up for as you go along as it is a great product.

One tool that I just can't live w/o is the RCBS APS hand priming tool. It is fast and easy to use. I am just giving you some items that you might upgrade to later as you save up.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

You can buy just about any gear you want and most of it is pretty good as far as reloading is concerned. I love my rock-chucker and it's one of the strongest out there, but if I went turret I'd go Redding for sure. As far as trimmers, my rcbs is just fine, but you've gotta keep it tightened down or it could walk. I'm using the rcbs uniflow measure then hand trickling the last 1/2 grain. I don't bother with a case length guage, I set the bullet to jamb, then make measurements and make a pedro up for that round and it stays in the die box.
As far as the load data on the 300 U, i usually run 93gr rl25 with a hornady 180 and a 215 in rem brass. It'll go 3280 fps out of my rem 700 and will hold 1/2" 100 yd groups. I also shoot 190's and 225's but those aren't book loads.

 

[cserwin]

I've got RCBS uniflow measure, trickler, and hand priming tool. I've got RCBS dies, but am noticing everyone seems to be using redding dies. That may come later. For now, I'll see how the RCBS dies work for me. Still wondering why my factory loaded Rem. brass is showing case neck splits after one firing. I suspect it may be from the factory crimp. Anyway the factory Barnes ammo I started shooting last year all appears to be good. Any theories you guy's have on that may be helpful.
I do see where this would become a time consuming process, and over time you would want to minimize time.
I'll be sticking with book loads for awhile, till I get a little more knowledgeable, and experienced. I'll do a little more reading up on it, and I should have that gun back soon. Spent a lot of money on it. Hopefully I get the results I'm looking for. In the meantime, I'll work on some 7mm-08 loads, and see what I can do with that. That gun is a Pro Hunter with Bergara barrel. It shoots 3/4" 100 yd. groups with factory ammo. Not bad for a break action single shot. Reloads could hopefully tighten that up a little more.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

If you can find data on it, use that data. I'm talking non book loads for mil-surp type stuff. Don't play with mil-surp until you feet are wet. And take anyone's posted wonder load with about a pound of salt. Unless you can find correlating data, it's probably a work-up to mask a problem like a loose chamber or long throat. Tread very lightly with unknown data. Your rifle and face are worth more than a few fps.

 

[cserwin]

Good advice. Safety, and equipment are most important. I'm not looking to milk every last fps known to man. Velocity is secondary to me. I'll trade some velocity for accuracy any day. Like I said for now I'll definitely be airing on the side of caution. Using only components, and loads from manual.

 

[cserwin]

Hey guy's, to let you all know where I'm at as a first timer to reloading. I have loaded my first test rounds in 7mm-08. Have not started with the RUM yet, as I have not gotten it back from the builder yet.

The 7-08 is a TC Pro Hunter with a bergara barrel. I know not an accurate action type, but I dont intend this to be a long range gun either, although after testing my first ever loads I was surprised by the increase in accuracy over factory loads. All factory loads I've shot have been very inconsistent, and averaging around 2" 100 yd. groups. My handloads averaged out at .997, the best being .553 I think it was a good start, and was pleased with my first effort, though I"m sure that can be improved on. Who knows, that little break action single may possibly make a decent little 300 yd hunting gun.

I started with a moderate load of 44 gr. of H414, 210 primers, new Rem cases, and 139 gr. SST's. I determined that factory Hornady ammo was set back .135 off the lands. I loaded 6 rounds, 2 three shot groups at 4 different seating depths. .013 off, .045, .070, and .106. I just have an RCBS FL die set, so exact seating depth is not easy. I pulled several bullets in making dummy rounds. Those weren't the exact numbers I was going for, but what I ended up with. Did not want to be pulling any more bullets. My best groups were from the .106 off lands. a 3shot .553 group, and a .932 3 shot group. I also had fairly good grouping at .070 off lands, but not quite as good, a .725 ,and a 1.205. This sounds like an awful lot of jump to me. Is that possible? It sure did shoot much better set back off the lands, but will not shoot any factory ammo well, which is a little more back from the lands.Even POI changes with factory loads.

Anyway that is my first attempt. I may look at concentricity, as I tend to think that may be factoring in. Do you guy's have any suggestions as to technique, strategy, and direction to go from here? My thought has been to find seating depth, and work load out from there. Have not chrono'd anything yet.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Hey guy's, to let you all know where I'm at as a first timer to reloading. I have loaded my first test rounds in 7mm-08. Have not started with the RUM yet, as I have not gotten it back from the builder yet.

The 7-08 is a TC Pro Hunter with a bergara barrel. I know not an accurate action type, but I dont intend this to be a long range gun either, although after testing my first ever loads I was surprised by the increase in accuracy over factory loads. All factory loads I've shot have been very inconsistent, and averaging around 2" 100 yd. groups. My handloads averaged out at .997, the best being .553 I think it was a good start, and was pleased with my first effort, though I"m sure that can be improved on. Who knows, that little break action single may possibly make a decent little 300 yd hunting gun.

I started with a moderate load of 44 gr. of H414, 210 primers, new Rem cases, and 139 gr. SST's. I determined that factory Hornady ammo was set back .135 off the lands. I loaded 6 rounds, 2 three shot groups at 4 different seating depths. .013 off, .045, .070, and .106. I just have an RCBS FL die set, so exact seating depth is not easy. I pulled several bullets in making dummy rounds. Those weren't the exact numbers I was going for, but what I ended up with. Did not want to be pulling any more bullets. My best groups were from the .106 off lands. a 3shot .553 group, and a .932 3 shot group. I also had fairly good grouping at .070 off lands, but not quite as good, a .725 ,and a 1.205. This sounds like an awful lot of jump to me. Is that possible? It sure did shoot much better set back off the lands, but will not shoot any factory ammo well, which is a little more back from the lands.Even POI changes with factory loads.

Anyway that is my first attempt. I may look at concentricity, as I tend to think that may be factoring in. Do you guy's have any suggestions as to technique, strategy, and direction to go from here? My thought has been to find seating depth, and work load out from there. Have not chrono'd anything yet.

Some rifles like more jump than others. My 270's like little to none, but my 300 ultra is .200" set back and my old 7mm ultra was .500" set back. The overbore rounds will have more free-bore, as they need it to help control pressure. Of course you have to play with loads more and watch your ammo closer to make it shoot. Every one of my dies is a regular set, don't think they are automatically inferior. Rcbs dies turn in about .030" per turn for regular dies, so that may help you a bit setting length next time. Also, when you get a load, make a dummy round(pedro) and label it so you can come back to it easier.

 

[cserwin]

Thanks for that advice Lefty. I'm a lefty too. Thats why I've not gotten my 300 RUM back yet, but am expecting it by the end of the month. Sounds like I'll be looking at sizable jumps with that gun, and probably some frustrations till I get the hang of it.

I think the 7-08 is probably a good place to get my feet wet, and see what my equipment and loads do. The RUM is my main project, but have much to learn between now, and then.

Is my strategy of finding seating depth, and then working out load from there reasonable?, or will charge increases have any affect on seating depth? I've seen every opinion imaginable on this site, and as it stands now I dont know if I've got the horse before the cart, or the cart before the horse.

If that sounds reasonable, I'l play around with that range from .100 off, and back. That's obviously what it wants. At .135 off factory loads are really bad, so the .100 vicinity may be hitting pretty close.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Thanks for that advice Lefty. I'm a lefty too. Thats why I've not gotten my 300 RUM back yet, but am expecting it by the end of the month. Sounds like I'll be looking at sizable jumps with that gun, and probably some frustrations till I get the hang of it.

I think the 7-08 is probably a good place to get my feet wet, and see what my equipment and loads do. The RUM is my main project, but have much to learn between now, and then.

Is my strategy of finding seating depth, and then working out load from there reasonable?, or will charge increases have any affect on seating depth? I've seen every opinion imaginable on this site, and as it stands now I dont know if I've got the horse before the cart, or the cart before the horse.

If that sounds reasonable, I'l play around with that range from .100 off, and back. That's obviously what it wants. At .135 off factory loads are really bad, so the .100 vicinity may be hitting pretty close.

I don't think you will be pulling teeth with your rum. I usually take a few different bullets I'm willing to use and seat 'em to standard length for that cartridge, and set a mild charge(low book charge) of appropriate powder under them and have at it. You will probably see patterns pretty quickly(with what the rifle likes) that you can work with to get her going better. With your 300rum I'd look at rl25 and retumbo to start with and 180 grain and heavier bullets. I take the loads that show promise and work for speed and accuracy. Right now I'm using a 180 Hornady fb and 93gr of rl25 with a 215 in rem brass loaded to 3.600" and it shoots 1/2' 3 shot groups consistantly. It isn't a 1000 yard load, but it works well.
I also use the 190 hornady with wc872(mil-surp), and the 225 hornady loaded to max mag length with a compressed charge of rl50 and a 215.
Seating depth is trial and error within limits. You don't want the bullet's ogive in the case mouth, and you don't want it so jambed into the rifling that you have to knock it out and you get an action full of powder if you ever decide to eject a loaded one. I give the big ones some run, but fitting your magazine is often the biggest reason to not go longer.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I've got RCBS uniflow measure, trickler, and hand priming tool. I've got RCBS dies, but am noticing everyone seems to be using redding dies. That may come later. For now, I'll see how the RCBS dies work for me. Still wondering why my factory loaded Rem. brass is showing case neck splits after one firing. I suspect it may be from the factory crimp. Anyway the factory Barnes ammo I started shooting last year all appears to be good. Any theories you guy's have on that may be helpful.
I do see where this would become a time consuming process, and over time you would want to minimize time.
QUOTE]
Your cracks were probably from stiffer brass and a slightly big chamber; crimps can start a crack too though. Not much to worry about. Just look for info on annealing if you want to soften the necks a bit. I personally haven't had to, but some have.
I also use rcbs dies and they work. About 1/2 of my dies are rcbs, and 1/2 are redding.

 

[cserwin]

I may just do that. Try different bullets, and then do a simple load charge test test to see what velocity range is doing the best, and work it out from there, as well as a seating depth test. I learned a rookie lesson today on bullet seating. I think for now My RCBS dies will do just fine, as I'm not looking for a 1,000 yd hunting load, not just yet, but a good accurate shooter out to reasonable ranges. I'm sure I'll be wanting to dabble in extrem long range as a hobby, and somewhere to sink my money into. hahahaha! Actually I am looking to satisfy my curiosity for the least amount possible. I could imagine it would be very easy to spend obscene amounts of money for nothing in this pursuit.

As far as the RUM goes, I've got some retumbo, and may pick up some RL25 to try, as well. I've got 180 gr. TTsX's, and 210 gr. VLD's. May try others too.

I appreciate your advice, and see that this may not have to be as difficult as it seems after reading all the post's on here. I guess it's just every bit as complicated as you make it. I'm a simple guy, and a good accurate load for hunting may not be all that complicated, for my purposes. I'm sure I'll want to dabble in extreme long range shooting on my own, but for my purposes, I think the less complicated the better.

Anyway I'll let you know how it all goes.