30 Nosler, 215 Berger. Reamer?

I set my freebore to just under 0.170" for a Berger 210 VLDH.

The Berger 215 has an even short bearing surface, and will have less bullet in the neck at the lands.

JGS did my reamer to my specs.
On the reamer high speed steel. Does it behoove oneself to also obtain a rough reamer with the finish reamer? Also, how crucial is the pilot end?
 
I dont, alot of gunsmiths either pre-drill or use a very small boring bar and just ream the last of the chamber with the reamer
 
On the reamer high speed steel. Does it behoove oneself to also obtain a rough reamer with the finish reamer? Also, how crucial is the pilot end?
I just ordered a finishing reamer. Jon Beanland does all my smithing. I let him take care of those details. I just spec'd my reamer with JGS and took it to Jon.

I set my specs so that I can contact the lands with the base of the bullet bearing surface just at the neck/shoulder junction of the case.
 

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Many gunsmiths drill and then bore with a bar, then finish up with the finish reamer. How the reamer is piloted does make a difference. I use reamers with removable pilots, only. I have a selection of pilot bearings for each caliber, and choose the pilot that fits the bore the best. Fixed pilots are slightly undersized, so they'll fit every barrel they're designed for. Also, with a fixed pilot very small cuttings can work their way between the pilot and the bore and do considerable damage. Some gunsmiths just use the finish reamer from start to finish. I have always drilled and pre-bored, as that was what was taught when I attended gunsmiths school. 30yrs ago. For most shooters, a SAAMI speced chamber is all they'll ever need, as a quality made barrel that's been properly chambered and then the metal properly bedded into the stock, with a good trigger and optics, will out shoot 98%-99% of the shooters out there. I have never tried a fixed pilot finish reamer, with oil grooves, in a barrel using my muzzle flush system. With clean cutting oil force fed from the muzzle end through the barrel to the cutting edges of the reamer, maybe chip damage would be eliminated,,,, maybe. Good barrel blanks cost too much to do much experimenting with....... But I may try it some day.
 
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Gents,
I am looking to build off of the attached reamer specs, I was told by JGS that this is a "Public" reamer with an extended .225fb. Let me know your thoughts please.

Liddy
 

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I just ordered a finishing reamer. Jon Beanland does all my smithing. I let him take care of those details. I just spec'd my reamer with JGS and took it to Jon.

I set my specs so that I can contact the lands with the base of the bullet bearing surface just at the neck/shoulder junction of the case.
I just ordered a finishing reamer. Jon Beanland does all my smithing. I let him take care of those details. I just spec'd my reamer with JGS and took it to Jon.

I set my specs so that I can contact the lands with the base of the bullet bearing surface just at the neck/shoulder junction of the case.
I just ordered a finishing reamer. Jon Beanland does all my smithing. I let him take care of those details. I just spec'd my reamer with JGS and took it to Jon.

I set my specs so that I can contact the lands with the base of the bullet bearing surfac
I just ordered a finishing reamer. Jon Beanland does all my smithing. I let him take care of those details. I just spec'd my reamer with JGS and took it to Jon.

I set my specs so that I can contact the lands with the base of the bullet bearing surface just at the neck/shoulder junction of the case.
I just ordered a finishing reamer. Jon Beanland does all my smithing. I let him take care of those details. I just spec'd my reamer with JGS and took it to Jon.

I set my specs so that I can contact the lands with the base of the bullet bearing surface just at the neck/shoulder junction of the case.
That is a lot of numbers. Where do you start to read the FB and the angle.For sure I'm at 101. Which bullet is this print for?
 
I wouldn't horse around with the 30 Nosler. If you're building and going to load just do the 30-28 Nosler.

Kris
I have been researching the 30-28 and it looks really good based on all I have read. One of the three Smiths that I have used already has that 30 Nosler .225fb reamer, I do not have anyone else lined up that has the 30-28 reamer. Additionally if I went 30-28 I would like the chamber cut with a long enough free bore to run the 230 hybrids and potentially the 245 EOL "IF" possible. Please feel free to school me if the chamber is achievable to shoot all three efficiently??

Liddy
 
I have been researching the 30-28 and it looks really good based on all I have read. One of the three Smiths that I have used already has that 30 Nosler .225fb reamer, I do not have anyone else lined up that has the 30-28 reamer. Additionally if I went 30-28 I would like the chamber cut with a long enough free bore to run the 230 hybrids and potentially the 245 EOL "IF" possible. Please feel free to school me if the chamber is achievable to shoot all three efficiently??

Liddy
I'm not one to school anyone. I did look at the .245 on the Berger site and it would need a 1-8, 1-8.5 at the minimum. I'm trying to wrap my mind around the 30 the 30-28 nosler more powder, more than a 300 rum?
 
That is a lot of numbers. Where do you start to read the FB and the angle.For sure I'm at 101. Which bullet is this print for?
Mine is setup for the Berger 210 VLDH as I mentioned in my post.

In my opinion, 0.225" is a LOT of freebore. If you use a long bullet such as the Nosler 210 ABLR or the Hornady 212 ELDX, then it's not so much.

Actual freebore on my print is right at 0.165" or so where the bore is at 0.308".

if you look, JGS puts there freebore numbers at the 0.295" bore mark. Would need to back that up some for a 0.308" bore diameter to get the freebore at that diameter.
 
I'm not one to school anyone. I did look at the .245 on the Berger site and it would need a 1-8, 1-8.5 at the minimum. I'm trying to wrap my mind around the 30 the 30-28 nosler more powder, more than a 300 rum?
Not more powder than the 300 RUM.

30-28 Nosler is just a couple or three more grains than a straight 30 Nosler. Maybe four.

I went straight 30 Nosler because my build is a Remington XP-100. My ejection port would need modified if I went any longer on the case length.

As it is, mine shoots really really well. This is three shots at 100 meters. H1000 @ 79.0gr.

Bottom gun is the 30 Nosler. (Top is a 7mm RSAUM)
 

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Mine is setup for the Berger 210 VLDH as I mentioned in my post.

In my opinion, 0.225" is a LOT of freebore. If you use a long bullet such as the Nosler 210 ABLR or the Hornady 212 ELDX, then it's not so much.

Actual freebore on my print is right at 0.165" or so where the bore is at 0.308".

if you look, JGS puts there freebore numbers at the 0.295" bore mark. Would need to back that up some for a 0.308" bore diameter to get the freebore at that diameter.
Hmm, I may not entirely understand. I am reading your freebore at .1706 which would be the difference between box "U" & "V" on the print. Please correct me if I am not reading this correctly as that is what I was told by JGS.

Liddy
 
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