Not sure what you mean by parallel part, but no I'm still using the factory recoil lug slot.
I typo'd that amount taken off the receiver face. It was supposed to be 1/16". There is a tiny bit of the bevels left.
Performance Guns
30-284?
- Thread starter Tac-O
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I typo'd that amount taken off the receiver face. It was supposed to be 1/16". There is a tiny bit of the bevels left.
Performance Guns
Well I got a call from Brad today. He didn't think that the amount we agreed on yesterday was fair. He then agreed to do $200, but also offered that I could order a reamer (whatever I wanted) from Manson and have them bill him for the cost and he'd rechamber it for free. He said he wanted to make sure I got what I wanted or was satisfied (as far as the gun goes).
So I agreed to do the latter. I figured if I just took the partial refund, bought my own reamer, and had someone else rechamber it, I'd be out quite a bit more. Considering the gun does have the capability to shoot really well and the major problem is fouling and leaving brass in the chamber from it being rough, I think he'd cut a good chamber with a new reamer.
I believe the lead time with Manson is long, so I'll update on that later on.
So I agreed to do the latter. I figured if I just took the partial refund, bought my own reamer, and had someone else rechamber it, I'd be out quite a bit more. Considering the gun does have the capability to shoot really well and the major problem is fouling and leaving brass in the chamber from it being rough, I think he'd cut a good chamber with a new reamer.
I believe the lead time with Manson is long, so I'll update on that later on.
slikmrc
Well-Known Member
Looking at both your threads there are a few things you might try to see if they help. Single feed a few cases and make sure your not getting some of the scratches from feeding out of the mag box. Make sure the chamber and cases are degreased and dry. Could try some bore paste on a patch rapped brush to buff the chamber, you don't want to polish to much but it would clean up the brass. The marks in the chamber don't look any worse than the boring marks on the lands which your smith has no control over. The lead cut looks really good to me, also the cross hatch marks which I assume is from trying to smooth the chamber don't look much better than the rest of the chamber. I will say your smith is trying to be accommodating, you need to keep him in the loop in regards to ordering a reamer. I would get a reamer print and have him give the ok before ordering. Not being a SAAMI chambering it is going to take some homework.
Yes I always single feed at the range and clean, degrease and dry the chamber.
The marks on the lands are not from the rifle being bored. They are from the reamer he used. If you look back, you'll see a variety of pictures I've taken of them. The bore is smooth with no marks.
Yes I was going to see if he wanted solid pilot, or bushing pilot, etc. He said specs are up to me, so I'll work with Manson on that.
For this cartridge I wanted to give 200gr bullets a try.
So, I was hoping y'all could give me some suggestions on what bullets to look for that are less than $.50 a piece and shoot well and are actually available.
What powder should I look out for that's actually occasionally available? I see staball, hybrid 100v, very occasionally an rl23, almost never a H4831
So, I was hoping y'all could give me some suggestions on what bullets to look for that are less than $.50 a piece and shoot well and are actually available.
What powder should I look out for that's actually occasionally available? I see staball, hybrid 100v, very occasionally an rl23, almost never a H4831
VLD Pilot
Well-Known Member
I shoot the 180s in my .284 w/RL17 and with a 29" barrel can easily make 3000 fps. Anybody ever run RL17 in their 30-284 ? Curious how the RL17 would do with heavier 308 caliber bullets.
Maybe they'll come out with a 17.5ts! I would be all over it.
I'm not a good enough handloader for rl17 haha
I had tried to mullerworks awhile ago because the smith was saying it was the barrel causing the fouling. So I emailed mullerworks several weeks ago, just to see what he had to say but haven't heard back.
The marks in the throat are absolutely from the reamer. I scoped the barrel blank when I got it at my house and it was smooth as can be.
You can tell by your pics you posted what the problem is, its not the barrel.
When I called about the crown burrs I mentioned I scooped it and it was really rough (before shooting it) and he said something like "man I wish people didn't even have those, it will smooth out".... You mean so they can't check your work???? That statement was a little nuts
I got a question on my brass. I've noticed that my neck thickness variation goes up after necking it up. I was really hoping to not have to neck turn. Is that common?
I also noticed that my Lyman M die (neck expander die) seems to be inducing some pretty decent run-out on the necks when I neck them up from virign, and in some cases when I expand the neck after FL sizing. In some cases 3 thou when there was maybe a half thou to start!!! I use imperial dry lube on inside before expanding.
Not really sure why that's happening. Any ideas?
Also, after necking up from virgin, the neck gets real short. Almost 0.020 short of max sometimes. For you neck up wildcatters, how do you manage neck length in this scenario?
I also noticed that my Lyman M die (neck expander die) seems to be inducing some pretty decent run-out on the necks when I neck them up from virign, and in some cases when I expand the neck after FL sizing. In some cases 3 thou when there was maybe a half thou to start!!! I use imperial dry lube on inside before expanding.
Not really sure why that's happening. Any ideas?
Also, after necking up from virgin, the neck gets real short. Almost 0.020 short of max sometimes. For you neck up wildcatters, how do you manage neck length in this scenario?
