30-284?
- Thread starter Tac-O
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Yep, it is basically an 06, I've shot matches with a few folks up in Canada BC that like the .30-284 Win it's not so much about the power, it's more about the accuracy they achieve from it. Now if you're looking for a combo of power and accuracy you might think about the .30-338 Win Mag, a very respectable game gun known for its accuracy in the long-range game. The other would be 7.5x55 Swede, pretty much a .30-284 Win
VLD Pilot
Well-Known Member
Anything .284 seems to shoot.
I understand your concept and the .30-284 Win is a very good cartridge for sure, as is the 7.5x55mm it's near ballistical twine. Heavey bullets? ok.. this is a long shot but you might think about something like the .300 RSAUM in a long action as well. If you were a hand loader it would give you everything you want. I built one up for F-Class Open... a few years back and took it to Ranton NM for a weekend match, put it into long action M-700 loved it, it pumped those 190gr and 200gr down range like it was born for them, just a thought. I shot one Deer off a stand with it in Idaho one year at a respectable hunting distance, just one shot, table meat. I almost reworked it and turned it into a full-time hunting rifle, but as always another shooting buddy wanted wor$e than I did.
Good Luck.Well, I've got it pillar and glass bedded into a new stock.
Long story short, I was doing this way too late at night and got compound in my action and chamber without knowing it and didn't realize it until the next day. Haven't had that happen before, so panic mode started and I went to trying to get it out.
This resulted in taking my action to Preece Precision to have him remove the rest of the compound and fix the marks I left in the chamber breech corner.
He ended up beveling the chamber breech edge to fix the marks I left. Brad didn't do this and preece said it should have been done in the first place. I also had him recrown it.
i told him about how it shot better the first time I picked it up from Brad before I took it back to him for him to throat it. Preece said he won't use throating reamers because it's too easy to screw it up and not throat it concentrically. Well, the horrible marks left in my throat and on the lands aren't uniform all the way around, so maybe that's what happened. I asked him about cutting it back and rechambering it and he said there may not be enough material left on the tenon to cut it back so it may be ruined if the throating screwed it up.
So I took it out today after Preece fixed it for me and it shoots no better than it did with my cracked stock after throating it.
so, I don't know. I'm about done with it because I've burned 75 shots of components at this point and have driven a total of 9 hours trying to get this gun done and shooting.
I'm shooting cci200, h4350, and Sierra matchking 175s with a more accurate version of an '06 case out if a mullerworks barrel. That should be fairly accurate (sub 1") over several different charge weeights. The best I got was about 1" but probably higher.
it is mind boggling to me that my factory barrel '06 was a hell of a lot more accurate with multiple different bullets that were cheapos
Long story short, I was doing this way too late at night and got compound in my action and chamber without knowing it and didn't realize it until the next day. Haven't had that happen before, so panic mode started and I went to trying to get it out.
This resulted in taking my action to Preece Precision to have him remove the rest of the compound and fix the marks I left in the chamber breech corner.
He ended up beveling the chamber breech edge to fix the marks I left. Brad didn't do this and preece said it should have been done in the first place. I also had him recrown it.
i told him about how it shot better the first time I picked it up from Brad before I took it back to him for him to throat it. Preece said he won't use throating reamers because it's too easy to screw it up and not throat it concentrically. Well, the horrible marks left in my throat and on the lands aren't uniform all the way around, so maybe that's what happened. I asked him about cutting it back and rechambering it and he said there may not be enough material left on the tenon to cut it back so it may be ruined if the throating screwed it up.
So I took it out today after Preece fixed it for me and it shoots no better than it did with my cracked stock after throating it.
so, I don't know. I'm about done with it because I've burned 75 shots of components at this point and have driven a total of 9 hours trying to get this gun done and shooting.
I'm shooting cci200, h4350, and Sierra matchking 175s with a more accurate version of an '06 case out if a mullerworks barrel. That should be fairly accurate (sub 1") over several different charge weeights. The best I got was about 1" but probably higher.
it is mind boggling to me that my factory barrel '06 was a hell of a lot more accurate with multiple different bullets that were cheapos
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xsn10s
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Yup I agree why not try some seating depth adjustments. Also I found with H4350 my best groups were shot using Fed 210 or Fed 210M in my 30-06. If you have some try those. 175 SMK were pretty forgiving of seating depths so I generally shoot them at standard box mag lengths. But my best groups came in my 308 win were around .025" off the lands. So playing with seating depth might help. And you had a stock issue so sometimes it takes a 100 or so rounds for the action to settle back into the stock after bedding.
You might want to try 53.0 grains of Hodgdon H4831sc to start with, start lower work up use a CCI BR2 pushing a 175gr match. Try .25 thousand off the lands. There are sweet spots on all rifles the fun is finding them. Good luck.
I'll definitely keep shooting and see how good it can do. From a financial standpoint a new barrel or even rechambering it if possible is out of the question due to having a newborn and my wife not going back to work. I'm just feeling like I got screwed. So hopefully it will at least equal my old barrel after some tweaking.
@Jud96 and @xsn10s and @436 thanks for the advice!
My plan for next step was to test different seating depths. I had this bullet shooting well out of my old barrel with a large jump... I think it was around 0.1". But, that was with a Tikka throat angle and it appeared much steeper than this new barrel.
I've got some fed210, so I may try that too.
@Jud96 and @xsn10s and @436 thanks for the advice!
My plan for next step was to test different seating depths. I had this bullet shooting well out of my old barrel with a large jump... I think it was around 0.1". But, that was with a Tikka throat angle and it appeared much steeper than this new barrel.
I've got some fed210, so I may try that too.
xsn10s
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- 7,626
Yeah sorry bud. One other thing you can try after shooting a few more rounds is to polish the throat. I say shoot it first because the rounds might smooth things out just by firing. At the bare min it should knock off any possible burrs from machining.
Yea after he throated it I did a few rounds of break-in and cleaned after that session. Then cleaned after this one. About 45 rounds in since he throated it and there was a fair bit of copper in there yesterday when I cleaned. So there's definitely some smoothing out left to do. I figure if I don't have something acceptable with another 50-75 rounds down then I'll take some JBs to it
Some projects just don't work out no matter what you do. If you can take a step back for a little while it might help. I had a recent project go like this and I ended up throwing it on a shelf for a year before looking at it again with a fresh perspective. I went a completely differently direct with the bullet I wanted to shoot, tried a powder I wouldn't normally use in a case that size, and ended up being happy with the results.
If all else fails, run a 30/6.5 RPM reamer in that chamber and give it a go.
If all else fails, run a 30/6.5 RPM reamer in that chamber and give it a go.
