30-06 Competition Loads

[Budget'06]

I dont load too much for the 30-06, but I do load for dozens of other cartridges all the way around it. It seems to me that you've put a few roadblocks in your own way. I can appreciate needing to use the powder you have, so in keeping with that I would not be so stringent on getting top shelf velocity. Slower nodeas are often more accurate than faster nodes, in my experience.
Also, again, I don't load much for 30-06, and certainly not for competition, but the bullet you mentioned is not one that I really ever heard described as a winner in the accuracy world. I could be wrong, but I would consider a different bullet that is know for accuracy, amd eliminate that as the possible cause. If you want to sample a few before making a big investment, I know of a fee great members that might send you a few to try, if you ask.
Definately need to shoot the best brass you can afford. If Win and Rem are it, then I would definately put the work in on a really good prep and sort. Flash hole debur and uniforming, volume sort, anneal, precision trim for length, and consider using an expander mandrel if your interference fit is in excess of .002" .
If you need clarification on any of that, just reach out..

I appreciate the the insight but I have to do this as cheaply as possible as I'm a broke college student. I definitely plan on trying some better bullets. And maybe ordering some lapua brass at some point.

 

[xsn10s]

I appreciate the the insight but I have to do this as cheaply as possible as I'm a broke college student. I definitely plan on trying some better bullets. And maybe ordering some lapua brass at some point.

I wouldn't change too many variable or components at one time. Especially if money is tight during these price increases. So since you're shooting mainly at 300 yards and have used 150gr FMJ I'd switch to a 155 match hpbt or 155gr ELDM. Hornady's can be some of the lower priced match bullets and at 300 yards they should do fine if your rifle likes them. Don't look for the fastest velocities, just the most accurate load. The 10's and X's wins the match.

 

[VinceMule]

Great post Bang!

 

[Budget'06]

I wouldn't change too many variable or components at one time. Especially if money is tight during these price increases. So since you're shooting mainly at 300 yards and have used 150gr FMJ I'd switch to a 155 match hpbt or 155gr ELDM. Hornady's can be some of the lower priced match bullets and at 300 yards they should do fine if your rifle likes them. Don't look for the fastest velocities, just the most accurate load. The 10's and X's wins the match.

I tried the lower nodes, didn't see any better groups, then again I didn't try them at 300, that's why I'm wondering if there is a faster node. I ran the numbers on Bergers 155s and those seemed to be the best until I get into the heavies. Maybe Sierra has a good option in that range.

 

[Old Rooster]

I have owned several 30-06 rifles and most would not shoot 200 gr and above with much accuracy.The one I had rebarreled with a Shilen Select barrel shot them very well but my factory barrels would not.Back then I had 8 during the 1980's.
On the worst shooter, after years of shooting and not getting great accuracy I cleaned the barrel to bare metal pushed a cotton ball through and found inside the barrel there was a damaged area.The cotton ball leaves little cotton strands at a damaged point.Using too much force with a steel rod I must have done that.That divet created the lack of accuracy I had.The gunsmith tooled it out to an acceptable level.
I went from a 1 1/2 inch group to .75 group.Still would not shoot 200 gr worth a darn but 180's and below were great.
From that point on I have coated rods and don't force things like I did as a younger shooter.
Like others I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets.Now getting ready to test some Cx 30 cal bullets when the weather breaks.
I hope you find this helps you out.

 

[Budget'06]

Th

I have owned several 30-06 rifles and most would not shoot 200 gr and above with much accuracy.The one I had rebarreled with a Shilen Select barrel shot them very well but my factory barrels would not.Back then I had 8 during the 1980's.
On the worst shooter, after years of shooting and not getting great accuracy I cleaned the barrel to bare metal pushed a cotton ball through and found inside the barrel there was a damaged area.The cotton ball leaves little cotton strands at a damaged point.Using too much force with a steel rod I must have done that.That divet created the lack of accuracy I had.The gunsmith tooled it out to an acceptable level.
I went from a 1 1/2 inch group to .75 group.Still would not shoot 200 gr worth a darn but 180's and below were great.
From that point on I have coated rods and don't force things like I did as a younger shooter.
Like others I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets.Now getting ready to test some Cx 30 cal bullets when the weather breaks.
I hope you find this helps you out.

This is actually my first 30-06 and the first rifle I've purchased. I chose the 30-06 over the 308 specifically for 200-230gr bullets. I'm definitely going to try them out at some point but thanks for the insight. I've heard great things about the CX bullets but have never used them. I've used some LRXs in a 6.5 PRC and Grendel and those were surprisingly accurate.

As for cleaning, I have a bit of a weird method. I simply mop the bore with solvent, I forget the brand, then let it sit for a while and come back and patch it out. I don't have a bore scope but it seems to work really quick and there's no contact with anything hard through the bore (weather or not that makes a difference I have no clue).

Thanks for the insight!

 

[Old Rooster]

I think I paid 149.99 for my borescope,maybe 169.99,not too expensive.
I once tried the mop but it left too much behind.Mine needed scrubbing with the solvent in the bore.Sometimes I needed more than just solvent so I used Isso on a 30 cal brush and scrubbed 20 strokes and retried just solvent and some came out but carbon will layer over copper.Took several hours to get it to bare metal.
A bore scope is essential for me to see just what was in the barrel.On one rifle that used to shoot lights out accurate would not shoot a tight group so a friend that had a borew scope looked through it and found I had not cleaned much at all.So I bought a Teslong Borescope!
That was a 300 weatherby mag and it took 2 days working on it in the evenings to clean the carbon first and then copper,that exposed another layer of carbon.Thats when I used Isso.A good friend VinceMule on this site gave me some good advice and I followed it to the T.
After 2 evenings of solid cleaning with Isso and JB Paste I got it back to bare metal and it went back to shooting good groups again.
You can't remove what you can't see.
I give a BIG high five to VinceMule

Edit:If you have a friend with a borescope let him take a look.I bet you have several layers of carbon and copper.Each will mask the other,remove one and then attack the other.

 

[Budget'06]

I think I paid 149.99 for my borescope,maybe 169.99,not too expensive.
I once tried the mop but it left too much behind.Mine needed scrubbing with the solvent in the bore.Sometimes I needed more than just solvent so I used Isso on a 30 cal brush and scrubbed 20 strokes and retried just solvent and some came out but carbon will layer over copper.Took several hours to get it to bare metal.
A bore scope is essential for me to see just what was in the barrel.On one rifle that used to shoot lights out accurate would not shoot a tight group so a friend that had a borew scope looked through it and found I had not cleaned much at all.So I bought a Teslong Borescope!
That was a 300 weatherby mag and it took 2 days working on it in the evenings to clean the carbon first and then copper,that exposed another layer of carbon.Thats when I used Isso.A good friend VinceMule on this site gave me some good advice and I followed it to the T.
After 2 evenings of solid cleaning with Isso and JB Paste I got it back to bare metal and it went back to shooting good groups again.
You can't remove what you can't see.
I give a BIG high five to VinceMule

Edit:If you have a friend with a borescope let him take a look.I bet you have several layers of carbon and copper.Each will mask the other,remove one and then attack the other.

I definitely appreciate your insight. Still learning about cleaning techniques

 

[Old Rooster]

I got my first gun in 1960,12 gauge shotgun and killed my first deer that day.You would think I know a good bit about cleaning a gun but almost daily on this site I find things I want to start doing.VinceMule taught me a lot and folks I can't remember their names has done the same.
This site is a GREAT selection of hunters/shooters that can give advice to both starter shooter or a professional shooters.
That's why I love this site!

 

[Roughrice]

I got a used Rem mountain rifle barrel from a guy and screwed it up on an action and ran a few patches of Hoppes 9 through it. It, or I so I thought, was clean enough to go ahead with load development.
It shot surprisingly bad with every load I tried so I looked at the inside with a bore scope.
The rifling was caked with copper. I used a brass brush wrapped with a patch with Kroil and JB paste. It came out black.
Used another patch with paste and again came out black.
Scoped it again and everything was clean and shiny except for the first 3-4 inches from the chamber where I still saw copper in the rough rifling.


I loaded up a known load and shot it again and it grouped.75"@ 100.

Now that I see it'll shoot an acceptable group I'll finish cleaning the copper out and make it a handy carry woods rifle!

 

[VinceMule]

The 125g Sierra TGK and Barnes 130g ttsx at 3150-3200 with Win 760 are just amazing in how accurate they are.

 

[xsn10s]

I tried the lower nodes, didn't see any better groups, then again I didn't try them at 300, that's why I'm wondering if there is a faster node. I ran the numbers on Bergers 155s and those seemed to be the best until I get into the heavies. Maybe Sierra has a good option in that range.

What's best is what shoots the best in your rifle. I check the numbers but in the end it's how your load performs that counts. IMO if you're only shooting out to 300 yards then whatever load shoots the most accurate is what I would settle on. If you're shooting out to 1k or farther then BC's, ES/SD, and velocities comes into play. If money is tight and given your range limitation I'd just come up with an accurate load and start shooting. You could look for other alternatives but imo the trigger time would be more valuable. Good luck.

 

[Tac-O]

I'll be trying 168eldm and h4350 pretty soon. Mine is an 06 twin, but the load data seems very comparable. I'm hoping to get the 168s moving at 2950 from my 24" barrel... I'm not that hopeful, but will try it. We'll see.

 

[Ronald W Schaefer]

For your purpose, I'd move away from the 150 gr bullets and disregard velocity. 165 is a sweet spot for 30-06 (followed by 180 gr bullets). They are great for hunting, ringing steel or tight groups. We've been using the same load for a number of years in four different rifles, and it shoots anywhere from one hole to a little over 1 MOA through four different rifles:

165 gr Nosler AccuBond or Sierra Tipped Game King
57 grs IMR 4350
CCI BR2 primer
LaPua brass

This load runs on average ~2820 through several rifles and one shot kill at range on Elk, so no need for 3000 Fps, especially with modern optics with selectable turrets. I'm going to try RL 17 for the 165 bullets as I've had great results swapping that powder for IMR 4350 in a number of cartridges. Of course, if it ain't broke...

If using the 180 gr bullet try IMR 4831, or RL 19/22.