280 AI??

remingtonman_25_06

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Jun 4, 2003
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Location
Hermiston, Oregon
Just thinking of a good 1000 yard target/deer/coyote, and about a 700 yard elk rifle in a standard caliber configuration that will allow use of big heavy target bullets. I was thinking of a 280 AI and using a 26" tube. Using 168g berger vld's, I figure I have a very nice long range deer/coyote, and then to step it up for elk, I can use the 180g berger or 175g smk. I am curious as to what one could expect velocity wise with these bullets and a 26" Improved .280. It would not take a lot to get a 180g vld going, with a bc of nearly .7, it should give pretty good ballistics.
 
Remmy 25-06,

The 280 AI is one smooth shooter. Mine is built on a M700 action which was blueprinted. The barrel is a Hart #5 flutted 24". With the 160 gr AB, MV is about 3000 fps. This will be verified with a chronograph very shortly and I will post my actual readings.
Also, I was told by a trusted friend of an elk kill with the 280 AI and the 160 gr AB at over 800 yds. Don't under estimate this bullet!
I am expecting my Mark 4 4.5x14PR scope mid week.Time to start getting serious with my 280 AI. Any suggestions or tips on how to put drop chart together would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

JD338
 
I was hoping I could get 2850fps from the big 180g vld. That would give pretty nice ballistics out to 1000 yards. The round would also be pretty cheap on powder, and have pretty decent barrel life. I dont know, just somethign I was thinking about. I was just thinking that maybe an ultramag is to big for 95% of the shots you encounter, and for the price you pay in consumption of powder and barrel life when it comes to target shooting is something I have been thinking of lately. Anyways, about those drop charts. I'll tell you how I do it, and that dont mean its 100% right, but it works for me, of course with actual practice at the distance and recording. Anyways, you need to get your load cronographed. Thats a must. Once you find your velocity, you then enter your ballistic data into a free ballistic program (pick one). I use biggameinfo.com because it gives the clicks for you, no math involved. Forgot to add that I obviously chose the most accurate load based on load testing, assuming you would to. Now load up a couple boxes and zero at 100 or 200 yards. I personally like to zero at 200. It lets you hold dead on farther then if you had a 100 yard zero and did not have time to use the clicks. Example being you jump a coyote/buck at 250 yards, with a 100 zero, your gonna be hittin pretty low as compared to a 200 yard zero. Your still pretty much gonna hit dead on. Your trajectory is not as much as a rainbow is what I'm getting at when you sight in at 100. The opposite works true as well. I use to zero at 100, then leave my scope on the 300 yard setting. Many times I shot at coyotes at 100 yards or less, and I shot soooo high it was not even funny. A 200 yard zero simplifies things a big in my view for quick shots when you dont have time to range. ANyways enough about that. Once you zero, shoot at least every 100 yards to the max distance you intend to kill or shoot targets. I usually go to 300-400-500-800. I have found that out to 500 yards, the computer will be very close, no more then 2 clicks off, to being "dead on". I have found once you start gettin past 500, they tend to either start dropping more, the BC is actually lower then advertised, or the velocity is lower at the muzzle. Either way, my rifles combos nearly hit anywhere from 6inches to 2ft low at 800 yards. THe thing to do here is record how many clicks, or what number your on the scope. NExt get a big piece of plywood or cardboard works great. Draw a 6-8 inch square and go up a couple more clicks and shoot 3 more shots or so. Go to the target and mark and see if they landed dead on or not. Keep raising your scope and shooting to verify when its shooting dead on. This is the way I have set up my clicks with my rifles to hunt coyotes and deer and elk with shots out to 800 at most. I write down the yardage on a small 3x5 card, then write the # on the scope corresponding with the yardage. Makes it a lot faster then sittin there counting clicks. You just range, look at the card, find the range, go to the # it says to and do that to your scope, then shoot.
 
Thanks Remmy,

I have been messing around with the biggameinfo.com and eskimo.com programs.You can change altitude, humidity, temp,
etc.
Once I get data compiled, I will print out a few lables.
I think this is going to be fun! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Thanks again for the help.

Regards,

JD338
 
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