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28 Nosler LAW Firing Issues

I have a LAW 28 Noslar and like it very much. Very accurate.
I have also found the folks at LAW are very helpful. Call them and they will get this fixed up.
Take care
John
Just so we are clear on this post. I have no issue with the folks or the rifle from LAW. This is not their issue. The rifle was rebarreled to 28 Nosler by another gun smith using the LAW 26 Nosler Action. This post was not placed on here to point the finger at anyone or place blame. It was put on here in hopes that others on this site would have had a similar situation and had it fixed or just a plain good idea on how to fix it. I just wanted to make that clear.
Thanks,
 
Just so we are clear on this post. I have no issue with the folks or the rifle from LAW. This is not their issue. The rifle was rebarreled to 28 Nosler by another gun smith using the LAW 26 Nosler Action. This post was not placed on here to point the finger at anyone or place blame. It was put on here in hopes that others on this site would have had a similar situation and had it fixed or just a plain good idea on how to fix it. I just wanted to make that clear.
Thanks,
I dont usually stick my face in front of a punch, but......you admit the law 26 nosler shot like crap, but you have no problem with the company ? Even though you had to pay a different Smith to change barrels ? Just seems like something they should have handled for you.
 
I dont usually stick my face in front of a punch, but......you admit the law 26 nosler shot like crap, but you have no problem with the company ? Even though you had to pay a different Smith to change barrels ? Just seems like something they should have handled for you.
5.56 x 250, I get where you are coming from and maybe I just wasn't clear in my initial posts. This is not my rifle, I was just looking for helpful information for a buddy. I am not complaining about the rifle manufacturer and I am not complaining about the gunsmith that rebarreled the gun and neither is my buddy. The manufacturer made good on there end and the gunsmith has offered to take the gun back and work the chamber so that it will fire factory ammunition. I was just hoping that someone else in the LRH realm had possibly had the same experience and could give me some insight on if there was a fix we could accomplish or if it really needs to go back to the smith. We are trying to get the rifle ready for a hunting trip and was just hoping for a miracle I guess. I appreciate your input and your opinion.
 
Just so we are clear on this post. I have no issue with the folks or the rifle from LAW. This is not their issue. The rifle was rebarreled to 28 Nosler by another gun smith using the LAW 26 Nosler Action. This post was not placed on here to point the finger at anyone or place blame. It was put on here in hopes that others on this site would have had a similar situation and had it fixed or just a plain good idea on how to fix it. I just wanted to make that clear.
Thanks,
Did not want to blame anyone at all. Just that their gunsmithing department is very good and can help you out.
Take care
 
5.56 x 250, I get where you are coming from and maybe I just wasn't clear in my initial posts. This is not my rifle, I was just looking for helpful information for a buddy. I am not complaining about the rifle manufacturer and I am not complaining about the gunsmith that rebarreled the gun and neither is my buddy. The manufacturer made good on there end and the gunsmith has offered to take the gun back and work the chamber so that it will fire factory ammunition. I was just hoping that someone else in the LRH realm had possibly had the same experience and could give me some insight on if there was a fix we could accomplish or if it really needs to go back to the smith. We are trying to get the rifle ready for a hunting trip and was just hoping for a miracle I guess. I appreciate your input and your opinion.
I gotcha. I was confused as to what all the variables were. As I had said in an earlier post, the firing pin drag possibility should be easy to diagnose, and as far as that goes, to fix as well. I keep an assortment of super fine sandpaper in my tool box just for polishing tight fitting parts. 10 minutes with some 800grt, followed by a few minutes with some 2000grt would fix a binding firing pin without any special skills or tooling.
 
No I didn't. I explained that the headspace with 2 unaltered bolts would be extremely close to one another through my experience. Most likely not enough difference to cause a safety issue. If in fact the action with the custom barrel had been trued then odds are the second bolt that was tried would result in tighter headspace. Tighter headspace is a lot safer than excessive headspace. If it was in fact too tight the ammo wouldn't chamber unlike excessive headspace. Pretty hard to have case head separations or other dangerous conditions with too tight of headspace. The biggest concern would be bullets now being jammed causing a increase in pressure. Since most people jump over .010" there is very little chance of bullet jamming in the few thousandth's we are talking about.

I've built my own guns since 1991 and have a pretty good understanding of what is safe and what is not. Way back when I self taught myself, through trail and error, we used a piece of masking tape on the back of a new case to set headspace. Most of the time that was way too tight compared to a go gauge. Never had one issue short of the dies not bumping the shoulders back enough to chamber fired brass easily. That was easily remedied by cutting some off the end of the dies which is in essence making your own case to your own headspace. In a chamber with excessive headspace you can neck cases up and back down creating a false shoulder to fire form and not risk case head separations. Then you leave the dies backed out a bit to give you the appropriate shoulder bump and you will never have a issue.

But for arguments sake lets say the custom barreled gun was set at max on a no go. If we use Danny's gauge that is .006" over. Then lets say it's a max of +.0015" off for the second bolt, assuming the action wasn't trued. That is +.0075" or .0025" under the field gauge Rhian mentioned. If the action was trued then it's most likely .002-.003" less than that and fully within the go and no go gauge range. Most people I know set the headspace to be the go plus .001-.002". If that is the case and the second bolt is short .0015" then it's right at zero tolerance on the go and if the action was trued it's roughly .002-.003 under the go or similar to the crush fit used for AI chambers. Like I said before there is a lot of assuming going on.

Just as the tolerances can cancel each other, as you point out, they can add. That is why swapping bolts and firing without checking headspace aster the swap is omething I would never recommend.
 
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