.270 Win + RL26 = Holy Cow

[Muddyboots]

Bald so prob why I prefer .270Win Maybe I could buy a fake man bun hat? Feel left out. Sad.

 

[Muddyboots]

get some Peterson brass. I use it side by side with Hornady in a couple calibers the Peterson has less capacity but holds pressure better. nothing wrong with Hornady brass as long as it is loaded within its limits.

Been switching over to Peterson just not .270 yet. Awesome 300WM Long brass game changer on brass life

 

[Saskquatch6]

Capecove: fyi- 150 ablr with rl26 in my 24" brl hit 3075 where I hit first sign of pressure with ejector mark, primer still not flattened, bolt lift normal. This is with Hornady brass at 3.42 coal which does help pressure. So now working to see if the 170eol will be stable enough down range. Right on razor edge.

Also trying HH117. They should be screamers.

Muddyboots - I was wondering what your charge of R26 was when you hit max with the 150's if you're comfortable sharing. Also I've read mixed reviews regarding a 10 twist bbl being able to stabilize the 150 ABLR's - most are saying it should (but at the limit) but from what MT Southpaw says his 1:10 did not - was that your experience with them? To be fair I'm really happy with my current 140AB/R22 load but think that if the 150/R26 load works well it'll extend the 270's effectiveness on moose and elk.

 

[Stockbroker]

I too became curious enough to build a 270 load with RL 26 last year. 24" Krieger, I built up to a safe and stupidly accurate 3200 FPS with 140 partitions.
Didn't have any premium brass to work with, but testing what I had on hand RP took the pressure better than WW, Fed and HDY.
WSM and WBY velocities from plain straight old 270 Win... whats not to like?!

 

[MT Southpaw]

Muddyboots - I was wondering what your charge of R26 was when you hit max with the 150's if you're comfortable sharing. Also I've read mixed reviews regarding a 10 twist bbl being able to stabilize the 150 ABLR's - most are saying it should (but at the limit) but from what MT Southpaw says his 1:10 did not - was that your experience with them?

I too am curious what his max charge was. Here is an article I read that first tipped me off that I might need a faster twist. If you do the formula with the 150 Accubond LR (length of 1.390) it shows a twist rate of 1:8.2, assuming the formula is correct.
Now I will say that in my dad's stock Savage 270 win we did find a decent pattern with 150 Accubond LR and 59.5gr RL26 which was a little over 3000 fps, I didn't measure the exact distance but it was sub MOA. So it is possible to get a decent pattern with a 1:10 twist, I just assumed that if you really push it for speed it needs a faster twist.

"The original article was in the January issue of American Rifleman on page 30. It credits a Sir George Greenhill with developing the formula T x L = 150 for estimating the proper relationship of bullet length to barrel twist. This looks really simple until you find out that the L is the length of the slug in bullet diameters, not in inches & T is the twist of the barrel in bullet diameters, not inches. Since they didn't take the time to convert the formula into inches, I will do it here so that we can all have numbers to look at that actually mean something to us. I'll leave the algebra derivations out unless someone wants me to post them, but this is what it comes down to: The proper Twist in inches = 150 x caliber diameter x caliber diameter / Length of bullet in inches
Or for a .224 diameter bullet that is 3/4 (.75) of an inch long
Twist in inches = (150) x (.224) x (.224) / (.75)
Twist = a shade over 10 (or 1:10) Also
The proper bullet length in inches = 150 x caliber diameter x caliber diameter / Twist in inches"