257 Weatherby

[Wolf76]

The gun is bedded. I did the bedding with devcon, just like my other rifles. The recoil lug, sides, and the rear are solid. Almost difficult to get out even without screws.
The most interesting observation is that I'll shoot a 3 shot group and it's a typical triangle like 4" @150M. Then I'll shoot the next load maybe .3-.5 of a grain more and it shoots the same/ very similar triangle. Even if I progress 1-2 grains more, it's still some version of a crappy triangle. Never brings the cluster tight.

 

[25WSM]

Aren't all 3 shot groups a triangle. If you don't like triangles shot one more time. All kidding aside I own many 257 rifles. Wby. 2506ai. 2506. 257wsm. All my 257wbys have had normal shorter freebore and all have shot fantastic. Run h1000 or retumbo and get 1500 to 2000 rounds easy. I don't know why someone would say no one knows what to look for with a bore scope. Pretty dam obvious what to look for. Shep

 

[sable tireur]

I don't know why someone would say no one knows what to look for with a bore scope. Pretty dam obvious what to look for. Shep

This is not to say you shouldn't have a look inside your barrel but trying to diagnose an accuracy problem by borescope can be fraught with confusing information. Obvious things like damage to the crown or lots of missing lands near the muzzle might be indicators but...

Maybe it's obvious to you but I can suggest clearly that it is not obvious to the amateur or even advanced amateur who is told to run out and spend $800.00 on a borescope just to look inside a barrel and be completely confused by what they see. They might think they know what they're seeing but the reality is that they don't. I've taught this for years to students who have experience and expertise with barrels and barrel making only to find out that they don't fully understand what the inside of a new barrel should look like under magnification let alone one which has fired hundreds of shots.

An expert such as yourself might be able to understand 'fire cracking' and significant signs of wear but again, most will not be able to judge how many shots have been fired (most of us can't, it's fallacious to even suggest a number) through a particular barrel, even though they will state their opinion. You will not be able to see an established wear pattern although you might see chunks of lands which are missing. So, pick out the big things you see and move on or let someone with experience take a serious look inside your barrel and really tell you the truth.

This is an attempt on my part to try to save a substantial number of shooters from spending $700 - 800.00 on a tool which they might use a couple of time but not have the experience to know what they're looking at or for.

And if you think one of the newer video borescopes helps, guess again. The resolution is significantly less.

Enjoy the process!

 

[huntintoo]

I'm not and expert at this, just purchased my first 257 WBY mag., but My experience with a .300 WBY was similar.
I Could barely afford a rifle got a Winchester model 70 in .330 WBY. Put a Cheap scope on it ad went hunting. This was my only rifle for a lot of years. I shot squirrels, prairie dogs, rock chucks, deer, elk, wild pigs, dang near everything.
As I could afford it I had a Leupold scope added VXIII 3.5-10 X40 a break added, learned to Glass bed and relieve barrels, did a trigger job (2Lb pull) it just kept making the gun better. After 28 years I started noticing I was making kills but not hitting where I was aiming. I tried to Get it on paper again and could not get consistent groups. I found my free bore was about 3.75". A new #3 barrel and no free bore added and I'm back in business. It's more fun than I ought to be having!!
Just saying try the little things first, that .257 WBY can be a delight!

 

[Frog4aday]

Hey Wolf76,
I can feel your frustration. Almost simpler to just sell it. But assuming you like it, I'd take it to a "real" gunsmith (do you have one nearby that you trust?) When I lived in ABQ (NM), Charley Robertson was the best in town. I could take my guns to him and he'd figure the issue out ASAP and the diagnostic was usually free, assuming I had the gun repaired by him, which I always did because I knew he'd do it right and for a very fair price.

A GOOD gunsmith can bore scope the barrel and tell you if it is shot out or perhaps the crown is just crap and needs to be re-cut. I had a Remington Titanium in .308 Win that shot like crap (3" at 100yds.) Got it to Charley. He said the barrel had several defects along it's length but nothing dangerous or critical, but the biggest problem was the factory crown was very poor. I asked him to recut it so I could try the 'easy/cheap' way first. Bingo! Went sub-MOA just from that. I got lucky and Charley really is that good.

You've eliminated all the other obvious variables (bedding issues, scope/mount issues, trying different seating lengths and powder charges, etc.) Seems like the barrel is the next thing to consider.

And let's pretend the barrel is 'shot out'. You might not have to invest a fortune to fix it. Cut some of the back end of the barrel off, rechamber it to clear up the damaged throat area, thread it again and reinstall. Not as great as a "new" barrel, but if you just want it for hunting now and again, it buys you some more usable life span.

Just some thoughts to consider. It really could be as simple as needing the crown cut again. No way to know without someone that has years of experience looking at barrels taking a peek down the thing with a bore scope. Then you can consider your options.

 

[Frog4aday]

Another thought - and it's a bit of a "Hail Mary" - is to Fire Lap the barrel. You already reload so getting the FinalFinish bullets from David Tubb's website and loading them up would be no big deal for you. Looks like $35:
http://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-bullet-kits/finalfinish-bulletkit-257

The barrel has to be cleaned completely down to bare metal first. This won't just be a copper solvent on a patch-type clean. This is a J-B Bore Compound-type clean. Once you have that done, you follow the directions that come in the kit you get from Tubb. What's really interesting is 'feeling' the barrel smooth up as you clean after every five rounds.

If your throat it rough and cracked, the fire-lapping can smooth it up and buy you some more 'effective' barrel life. And if you are just sighting in and using it for hunting after that, it could be good-enough for your lifetime of owning the gun.

Just tossing it out there as another option YOU can try, for not much money.

 

[Wolf76]

Quick update.

I bought a lyman borescope and quickly saw all the fire cracking. Barrel is toast!
So, 1 in 10 or 8 twist?
Don't need to shoot heavy bullets. Only using the gun for deer / pronghorn.

 

[Frog4aday]

Hey Wolf76, sorry to hear that but at least now you know. Seems like the 1 in 8 twist would allow you to play with some of the high BC bullets without compromising on the stuff 100 grain and heavier, but if you are thinking of the rifle being a 'dual-role' toy (deer/varmints) maybe 1 in 10 would be better?

On the plus side...you have a borescope now! That's the next gadget I'd like to have. It's only money, right?

 

[Greg Page]

Another thought - and it's a bit of a "Hail Mary" - is to Fire Lap the barrel. You already reload so getting the FinalFinish bullets from David Tubb's website and loading them up would be no big deal for you. Looks like $35:
http://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-bullet-kits/finalfinish-bulletkit-257

The barrel has to be cleaned completely down to bare metal first. This won't just be a copper solvent on a patch-type clean. This is a J-B Bore Compound-type clean. Once you have that done, you follow the directions that come in the kit you get from Tubb. What's really interesting is 'feeling' the barrel smooth up as you clean after every five rounds.

If your throat it rough and cracked, the fire-lapping can smooth it up and buy you some more 'effective' barrel life. And if you are just sighting in and using it for hunting after that, it could be good-enough for your lifetime of owning the gun.

Just tossing it out there as another option YOU can try, for not much money.

+1 on the Tubbs Final Finish. I resurrected an M1 barrel with the Tubbs Kit.

 

[Dosh]

+1 on the Tubbs Final Finish. I resurrected an M1 barrel with the Tubbs Kit.

My .270 Wby died on me so I tried the Tubbs, no improvement. Had a Kreiger installed and bought a borescope and life is good.