.257 Frustration continues!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[300winnie]

If I remember correctly, 0.001" on the end of a base = about 1 MOA. Not sure though......

Am I understanding correctly that one of the mounting screws is twisted off? With the remainder remaining in the threads? It would be best if the remaining part of the screw was in a hole that went completely through. However, it sounds like it may have bottomed out when initially installed.

That's a spot of bother.

I'd recommend a smith do the work. Jim Hall is in your neck of the woods. His cards are at Ski's.

It should be about a 10 minute job. but it may ultimately require redrilling to a larger size. Don't know.

Hang in there, you'll get it....

Roy,

Sorry I didn't really answer any of your questions earlier, but now I have some time so I will describe.

It appears that it is a blind hole...at least the front hole on the front mount is. I assume the back one will be as well as it would come out in one of the lug recesses.

When I tried to turn each screw in the mounts and rings I didn't get any play until I got to the alleged screw. It turned like it wasn't tight so I thought I would back everything out (only had three mount screws left to do) and reset everything with loc tite. It backed out just fine and felt normal. It wasn't until I looked at the hole that the light went on...I thought there is no way that little amount of threading is going to do anything...then I looked at the screw...sure enough sheared off with the bottom part still in the receiver.

As far as this causing my accuracy problems...what is your honest opinion? If the front screw was tight, and both screws in the back mount were tight am I going to get that much play to throw my groups around like they have been?

Haven't heard good or bad about Jim Hall's work. How is it? I think I would like to get the action and recoil lug bedded while he has it. Is that where you would send it, or do you have other suggestions?

Thanks,

Jay

 

[royinidaho]

Jay,

Its as I figured, I think. The screw bottomed out before the head came in contact with the mount. That's a bummer of a way to find out. Just to make sure can you dig around with a dental tool or tooth pick and see if you can find the bottom of the hole just to make sure it doesn't already come through. However, I never heard of as screw twisting off well down into the threads. Its usually happens right at the head??????

RE: Jim Hall. Know nothing about his work. The real problem is getting the remaining portion of the screw out of the hole. The remaining portion will be fairly tight, hence the twist off. I don't know if an easy out can be had that small. Talk to Ski(John) at Ski's he may give a recommendation on Jim.

Another candidate, who does good work, but is slower that Moses' goat, i.e., you may get it back before next season, maybe, is the fella in Rexburg, across the street from BMC. Bruce something or an other. He's done some barrel exchanging and brake installation for me and has done an outstanding job but it took 10 months when originally 10 days were promised.

If I were in your situation I'd send it to Kirby. He's pretty nice about those kinds of things.

Any "good" machinist could do the job. but everything needs to be lined up perfectly to "drill out" the remain portion without damaging existing threads. I also don't know if there is any harm in completing the hole????? It would depend if it is behind the barrel shank threads.

Regarding three tight screws and one loose screw: I doubt this would cause your accuracy problems.

Regarding bedding: I'd check it with a dial indicator mounted on the barrel and the indicator riding on the forearm. Alternately loosen and tighten both mounting screws. If movement is excessive then you may have found your problem. If it appears a problem then I'd pillar and skim bed. You could do this yourself with a little coaching, just for confidence, and you would be in control of the schedule.

Roy

Roy,

Sorry I didn't really answer any of your questions earlier, but now I have some time so I will describe.

It appears that it is a blind hole...at least the front hole on the front mount is. I assume the back one will be as well as it would come out in one of the lug recesses.

When I tried to turn each screw in the mounts and rings I didn't get any play until I got to the alleged screw. It turned like it wasn't tight so I thought I would back everything out (only had three mount screws left to do) and reset everything with loc tite. It backed out just fine and felt normal. It wasn't until I looked at the hole that the light went on...I thought there is no way that little amount of threading is going to do anything...then I looked at the screw...sure enough sheared off with the bottom part still in the receiver.

As far as this causing my accuracy problems...what is your honest opinion? If the front screw was tight, and both screws in the back mount were tight am I going to get that much play to throw my groups around like they have been?

Haven't heard good or bad about Jim Hall's work. How is it? I think I would like to get the action and recoil lug bedded while he has it. Is that where you would send it, or do you have other suggestions?

Thanks,

Jay

 

[300winnie]

Thanks Roy,

I think I will get hold of Kirby. That sounds like the most logical thing to do at this point.

I really want to get to the bottom of this thing.

Thanks again,

Jay

 

[300winnie]

I just emailed Kirby with some information and questions...hopefully I will be boxing this sucker up and sending it to him within the week.

Thanks.

 

[WyomingShooter]

7828 and cci 250 primers shoot extremely well in the 257, 270, and 7mm wby. Throw away the Barnes and get a good accurate bullet! Years ago we found that for some reason some of the wby mags really liked to have a T bed in the forend with just a bit of upward pressure on the barrel. You need a torque wrench to adjust the pressure and someone to bed it that knows what they are doing. I hope you solve your problem, there is some good advise from all. If it doesn't shoot you can sell it to me cheep and I will spend the money fooling with it.LOL

 

[Qzilla]

I just had Shawn at DE build me a 257WBY on a Rem 700.

I shot a few factory loads during break in and they were in the 1moa-1.25 moa range although I was just shocked they shot at all.

Once I started playing with loads I messed with H1000 and IMR 7828 with 110gr Accubonds. The bullet or gun was pretty finicky until I hit the sweet spot. The accuracy was never bad but around the 1-1.5 MOA range with most of the loads. Then when I hit the sweet spot with both powders the groups shrunk into tiny holes with the best groups under .25moa.

I finally settled on a hot load that the rifle really liked with a COL of 3.248" and it fired 2 seperate groups under .2 and I left it at that.

I worked up loads in .3gr increments. Once I got in the sweet spot it took about 1.75grs to get out of it. Anything in that range shot remarkably well.


So, I would switch powder or bullets. I am trying not to be biased but I HATE Barnes bullets. I pretty much shoot Accubonds or Matchkings as they seem to be the king of accuracy for bullets that are easy to come by. And stuff does not seem to walk away from them!!

I know that all my 257's love IMR 7828. I tried H1000 because I like it and the extreme spread was 11FPS over 3 rounds.