25-06 barrel

MudRunner2005 said:
Bartlein or Proof are both good barrels. I also recommend rebarrling it to a 26" .25-06 AI with the 40º shoulder. You can buy dies for it over the counter, and you get a slight bump in performance bringing it to within 100 FPS of the .257 Weatherby. But the main advantage is the design and case shape of the AI, which has a very low wall taper, and a 40º shoulder. It is a better design over the standard .25-06 Rem case shape with the high wall taper and the very low-angled shoulder.

http://www.brunoshooters.com/product/13915.html

I use cheap .270 Win brass to form for mine. Back when brass was really hard to find (around 2013/2014), I picked up 200 pieces of once-fired Winchester .270 brass for less than $40 shipped, and I've still got 100 of them sealed in the bag. It takes a while to wear-out AI brass as long as you don't run it too hard.
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So what all would I need to do to my Rifle to make it shoot AI? Just a new barrel?
 
Just went through a similar process. Had my Tikka T3 25-06 rebarreled with a KP 1-9" twist 24" barrel sendero contour. Wish I had gone to at least 1-8" to shoot heavier mono bulelts and a bit lighter contour. I can get 115gr Nosler B-Tips to an easy 3050fps and sub .5moa. I'm pretty sure reading the brass that I could go faster and still maintain accuracy, but it's right there and I feel good with that speed. I'l betting that if I switch to the berger 115 that I could pick up speed becasue of the bearing surface reduction. So, go min1-8" and 24" #5 or lighter fluted to save weight.
 
86alaskan said:
Just went through a similar process. Had my Tikka T3 25-06 rebarreled with a KP 1-9" twist 24" barrel sendero contour. Wish I had gone to at least 1-8" to shoot heavier mono bulelts and a bit lighter contour. I can get 115gr Nosler B-Tips to an easy 3050fps and sub .5moa. I'm pretty sure reading the brass that I could go faster and still maintain accuracy, but it's right there and I feel good with that speed. I'l betting that if I switch to the berger 115 that I could pick up speed becasue of the bearing surface reduction. So, go min1-8" and 24" #5 or lighter fluted to save weight.
Click to expand...

I've used ballistic tips and vlds in my 257wby, took .5gr less powder to match the vld with the ballistic tip velocity. But that was in the middle of the node so I backed the powder off for accuracy. I was at 3280fps
 
RockyMtnMT said:
Keeping it light and re-using your stock look at the Sendero light. Check with Proof and see about getting a 7" twist. That is the twist that the .25 bore needs to be on par with the .264 cal. We did a 7" twist on a 257 Weatherby and designed a 128g bullet for it. Makes the bigger 1/4 bores a legit 700-800 yard hunting rifle.

Oh yea, the Proof barrels are as good as it gets. IMHO

Steve
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What brand of barrel did you use?
 
RockyMtnMT said:
Keeping it light and re-using your stock look at the Sendero light. Check with Proof and see about getting a 7" twist. That is the twist that the .25 bore needs to be on par with the .264 cal. We did a 7" twist on a 257 Weatherby and designed a 128g bullet for it. Makes the bigger 1/4 bores a legit 700-800 yard hunting rifle.

Oh yea, the Proof barrels are as good as it gets. IMHO

Steve
Click to expand...
Do you have these 128g bullets for sale or do you just make them for your own use?
 
RockyMtnMT said:
They are on our website. hammerbullets.com

Steve
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Awesome. I've been emailing a guy at bartlien and he told me to ask if you knew exactly what the recommended twist rate for those bullets is because he said he can do a fractional twist rate. He also has a 25-06ai hes been looking for a longer bullet for and was interested in your 128g
 
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