25-06 AI Build

I am planning on changing the bottom metal over to AICS style bottom metal which would .......

While I think that is a good option I don't like that you can only find 5 round mags from accurate mag...and they hang down pretty far for a hunting rig...if they made the single stack in 3 rounders it would make a more trim option. 5 round Tikka mags "hang down" less than ACIS mags--this my not bother you--just some thoughts...
 
On a 6.5x06AI with a 140 berger just off the lands is 3.43+ with the boatail just above the neck shoulder junction.
The 131 black Jack's and Bergers 140 are almost identical in length.
I know it's over 3.4 by quite a bit I would have to look at my notes to make sure, may even be closer to 3.45.
My reamer has .130 freebore.
 
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I guess a further follow up question would be what are some of the positives or negatives about going with more or less free bore. As I said before I am new to the custom rifle building world and want to make sure I get this right the first time as with reamers, reloading dies and the rifle itself I will have a fair amount invested in this rifle.

Another question, are there any significant advantages of going with a slightly heavier fluted profile for a barrel vs one size down or is it essentially just for the aesthetic factor? Finished weight is estimated to be the same in both cases.
 
To much freebore and you will have not enough bullet in the neck or be able to chase the lands, weatherbys freebore is an example.
Not enough and you give up some performance and case capacity.
The correct amount for bullet you choose leaves you alot more options on seating depth and you get the best performance.
It's best to send a dummy round and talk to your smith.
 
I always ask for enough freebore to be able to seat the bullet of my choice so that the bottom of the bullet sits no lower than halfway down the shoulder. I never worry about chasing the lands because I don't shoot that much. Preferably between halfway down the shoulder up to the bottom of the neck.
 
So I finally have my reamer and go-no-go guages. I'm planing on re-cutting the chamber on the donor 25-06 to a 25-06 AI and using that for most of my fire forming. What is my best bet for making quality 25-06 AI brass? Should I get Lapua 30-06 brass and work with that or should I try and get some quality 270 brass and work off of that? If i go with the 30-06 what are the steps I have to take to get it to the 25-06 AI? Thanks for the help.
 
I don't remember for sure, so sorry if I post the wrong info. I believe I read that making it out of .270 brass would be better because the .270 case would give you a longer neck versus the 30.06 cases.
 
I had no problem making 6.5x06AI out of Lapua 30-06. I used double ended forming dies to neck down.
 
So I finally have my reamer and go-no-go guages. I'm planing on re-cutting the chamber on the donor 25-06 to a 25-06 AI and using that for most of my fire forming. What is my best bet for making quality 25-06 AI brass? Should I get Lapua 30-06 brass and work with that or should I try and get some quality 270 brass and work off of that? If i go with the 30-06 what are the steps I have to take to get it to the 25-06 AI? Thanks for the help.

Did you end up going with a JC Custom barrel. Reason I ask is I have 2 done by him(25/06 and 7mm/08). great barrels and good guy to talk with concerning your build.
 
I did go with the JC Custom. I'm still waiting on the barrel but I have the reamer and gauges from Manson. I'm planning on cutting the factory barrel first and using it for fireforming then putting the jc barrel on. I have a JC barrel on a target 260 that shoots great. It is capable of 1/2 moa quite regularly. I adjusted my trigger as light as it will go hoping it will help me be a bit more consistent but haven't had a chance to try it out since.
 
I don't remember for sure, so sorry if I post the wrong info. I believe I read that making it out of .270 brass would be better because the .270 case would give you a longer neck versus the 30.06 cases.
Thanks for the info. The one draw back with using 270 brass is finding quality brass. Norma and Nosler are almost double the price of Lapua 30-06. Once I do the brass prep and get it down to 25-06 AI I should essentially be done with brass prep for the life rifle. I'll keep looking for what I can find as well.
 
I had no problem making 6.5x06AI out of Lapua 30-06. I used double ended forming dies to neck down.
Did you have any issues with neck wall thickness? What kind of prep work did you have to do after sizing? I have a 270 loading die and the 25-06 AI so could I jsut size it in 2 stages and then use it for fire forming?
 
I just necked them down to 6.5 ran the through my whidden FL size load and shot.
I did have to turn the necks for a .293 loaded round because I had the reamer made for a .297 neck.
I dont like really thick necks tension gets to inconsistent.
 
I did go with the JC Custom. I'm still waiting on the barrel but I have the reamer and gauges from Manson. I'm planning on cutting the factory barrel first and using it for fireforming then putting the jc barrel on. I have a JC barrel on a target 260 that shoots great. It is capable of 1/2 moa quite regularly. I adjusted my trigger as light as it will go hoping it will help me be a bit more consistent but haven't had a chance to try it out since.

JC done me a 27" SS 4 groove 1/9 twist heavy barrel for my 25/06. Great accuracy. As far as brass I know that many find Hornady brass no good, but such has not been the case with me. I started with 50 cases and fire formed them and now have over 20 firings on them and have only lost 3 due to various reasons, but the rest are still good. Primer pockets still good and tight. I had the same experience with Hornady brass and my Rem 700 VSF 22/250.
 
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