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22x47 Lapua reloading advice needed.

Here you go:


You will need a tablet, I phone, or old lap top to use this bore scope

X military get 25% discount!

When you get the bore scope, and installed on your computer, the mirror screws on the end with a lock ring. You will adjust the focus till it is crystal clear. There are extra mirrors that come with the bore scope, tiny package, easily thrown away. There is one mirror with a red tip on it that is an anti glare mirror, and I prefer that mirror.

Best of luck
 
BALLISTICJESUS, your quote: " The he color of the patch through the barrel will tell you everything you need to know."

Respectively, you are dead wrong. The first lesson you learn when you get a bore scope is how little a clean patch tells you! So much so, it is humbling, and remarkable in it's revelations!

I am trying to teach, not criticize, hope you take my comment in that light. I have a Teslong at the lathe, and at the cleaning station.

Another lesson is learned from the Powder Heat Index Chart. Some powders burn very, very hot and they are extremely difficult to get out of a barrel.

These HARD lessons learned using a Bore Scope, proved that all my previous cleaning methods were not cleaning my barrels, which resulted in less accuracy and shorter barrel life. At one time, I was shooting 20,000 rounds a year on P. dogs, jackrabbits, p. dogs, Ground Squirrels, and Coyotes in the Winter. We started using a medical device that is almost identical to the Teslong 10" in 1987, it was a game changer to see the amount of carbon in the barrels.

After I got the bore scope, even the barrels that I shot registered Benchrest with, had carbon in them, only shooting 7-12 shot strings, using good bronze bristle brushes. The Bore scope I had access to in 1987 was humbling on a personal basis, and a game-changer in the scores I shot.

I probably have every cleaning solution and paste you have read about, and make my own barrel and die-lapping compounds. I hate cleaning barrels, but it is the cost of the super accuracy that I want out of my outfits.

I shoot a bunch of Hot Rod wild cats. If you do not get the carbon out, the base of the carbon layer gets so hard that you can not remove it. Then you shoot more and do not get out that baseline, adding up to a base of carbon that gets continuously thicker. Eventually, the barrel will quit shooting, most that do not use a Bore Scope just count it up to short barrel life, replacing the barrel.

Al Oxide in it that go up to 1000 grit are what barrel makers use to lap barrels with. Some of the cleaning products use this grit of Al Oxide to clean with, hence the throat dia is opened up and the square edges of the lands are lapped round.

I shoot:
22/250 AI
22-243 AI
243 AI
6 Rem AI
a number of deer calibers
7 STW
28 Nosler

All of these hot rods require some attention to carbon removal, and that is an understatement.

One of the worst offenders is the 308 Win with IMR XBR 8208 and the 22-243 AI with VARGET

With a military discount, a Teslong may only cost you $75 or less, and it is more important than a good set of Reloading dies.

The use of Abrasives does something that you never hear anyone speak of, and that is opening up the throat and bore dia. JB is probably the least of the abrasives.

If you wait till a gun stops shooting before you clean it, it will be difficult to impossible to get down to the root of the carbon fouling on the steel without considerable use of aggressive abrasives.

If you take any pride in your equipment, get a Teslong bore scope, you owe it to yourself!
 
Hey. We all do what works for each of us. The results of consist groups in the .1's and .2's from many of my rifles speaks for itself. There are many variables, that contribute to accuracy. It's tolerance stacking across the board. Then again I have 37 years experience handloading custom rifles. I learned from my mistakes.
 
I got you beat on the number of years loading for Benchrest matches! Hee Hee! When I started shooting BR, 22/250 was King, 10 shot record for score at 200 yards, and 40 x's were the custom action of the day! Half the guns on the line were on Mauser actions! YIKES!

Four things changed my small groups:

A. Wind Flags- catch the wind switches, left, right, in your face, straight away...not rocket science at all.

B. Getting a barrel where the gunsmith indicated in the bore to the .0001(bullet alignment in the bore)

C. Bore Scopes-keeping the carbon out or to a minimal level

D. Tuners, Tuner/Brakes, and muzzle breaks

If a guy can keep the carbon out of his barrel, then be able to pick up the wind switches, he has come a long way!

BallisticJesus, you and I can clean a gun pretty well without a bore scope. The new guys simply have no frigging clue, and the old pharts have to encourage and teach the new guys.

This is a hobby, a guy has to pick where he is going to jump on and off of the advanced stuff, you have to make it fun for you.

On You Tube, there is a top contender in F class that has been making very good videos with his Teslong, and it is worth your time to watch them. Winning in the Wind. Great series that is well thought out and presented on how this gentleman struggles to get out hard carbon. In these videos, he tests several of the popular solvents and their results

Part 1


Part 2

.
 
He shoots 3 hours from my house and has no problem running this stuff on tough carbon. He's a solid guy. I shoot piles of .284 180gr Berger Hybrids. 😉
 

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Hi guys . Thought I would post this here because this barrel has me so stumped .
First off let me explain the components used .
Rifle is a savage model 12 action. Barrel is a new Wilson 1-8 twist 26 inch's long that I've shot 300 rounds through already . Barrel is 1.080 straight taper . So heavy heavy bull type barrel. Barrel uses a precision ground lug and barrel nut and was head spaced using Forster
Go/ No Go gauges . Components used for loads are Brand New Peterson 6x47 Lapua brass that's been necked down and neck turned then run a .002 neck tension mandrel down them .
Primer pockets have been uniformed and I'm using CCI 450 primers . Powder charge is 40.6 of H4350 and a 75 grain Hornady A-Max is used for projectile . I've loaded them at .010 off jam .
See below for grouping. First 5 shots are pretty good then 2nd string of 5 shots are absolutely horrible. What would cause this ?? View attachment 428617View attachment 428618
iv seen this with a 22 creed, the guy said barrel was bad, was running 75 elds, made my smith put him on another barrel. i got the barrel put it on a action it shoots 1/2in groups with 73 gr absolute hammers at 400 yds! im shooting a 22X47 also runs 75 gr absolutes hammers and 83gr hh 3600 and 3400 shoots lights out with H4350, 6.5 staball and superformance. you might try a different bullet!
 
Thurro Clean

When I get a barrel that is hard-carboned from end to end, I will cork the muzzle, fill the barrel with Free All, then scrub with a good bronze bristle brush, re cork and fill for another 2 week soak.
 
I have run into the carbon layered with copper. It was my 22-243 barrel with h4831sc and 75g amaxs, barrel started shooting not vary good, I thought I had been cleaning it good. I bought a bore scope, to find out it was dirty. I used some cork plugs and filled the barrel with free all. Let it soak a few days would then drain it and brush it, patch it out with Boretech eliminator, soaked it for a few days brushed it, patched out, did this 3 times. Bore scoped it still had a little carbon, every time I patched out with bore tech I would get copper too. So at the end I used wore brush and jb and got it all out. Went back to range and shot a group and it was grouping like usual again.
 
Not my own barrel for all of this soaking. This was a 308 Krieger barrel I purchased from a gunsmith off of AccurateShooter.com. The previous owner did not clean his barrel properly. JB would not touch the carbon, even on Iosso plastic brushes. Iosso on plastic brushes would not touch the carbon. Montana Extreme copper cream would not touch the carbon. Flitz bore cleaner on Twill patches would not touch the carbon. Kg products, Bore Tec, and Wipe Out products would touch the carbon.

I got all the carbon out, and chambered the barrel with a short freebore reamer, the barrel will shoot 3/4" at 300 with 169g Sierras and 8208, if I keep the carbon out. Heck of a hog and deer rifle now, on a 700, MHV contour, 27" long. Around 60 rounds, carbon starts having an effect on accuracy. Bore dia was
0.3000 from end to end, but I have no idea how many rounds were on the barrel by the prior owner. I cut 3" off the back end of the barrel to get into new meat, another good use of a bore scope, plus a 32" Grizzley rod using Reamer pilots graduated in .0002 increments gives a good feel on throat dia growth from breech to muzzle if there is any.

If you don't use a bore scope, you do not know how much carbon is in your barrel, patches are sure not an indicator of how much carbon is in your barrel.
 
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