RAGGED EDGE
Well-Known Member
Maybe just re-barrel with a good surplus 5-groove Enfield barrel and shoot it for fun the way it is. The barrels are getting harder to find, but there are some out there.
1917 Eddystone Rebuild?
- Thread starter pacowboy
- Start date
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- Mar 7, 2014
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WYO...
"Chuck in Denver" specializes in 03 barrel replacements and other refurbishments. My son gave me a yard-sale special, had it a few years then sent it to Chuck. Criterion barrel, replaced bolt. Reasonable prices and fast service. Only shot it a few times but love it. Learned close order drill in high school with one. Much snappier than M-1.
Frank
WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
That's sounds great ! Thank you ! I'd like new barrel and drilled and tapped for scope mounts . Probably wouldn't shoot it much. Sold my only other 30.06 many years ago. A Ruger MkI M77. Mistake ....
WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
Thank you !
straightshooterpaul
New Member
I have used a 1924 NRA issue target rifle for over 45 years. My son always admired that rifle. Several years ago i purchased a sportsterized 1903 A3 (too bad it was not original) for my son. The barrel was shot out, but the rifle could be refurbished. I contacted Criterion Barrels in Germantown, WI who screwed on and head spaced a target barrel. This is quite the shooter. My son can hold 1/2" groups in 100 yards benched. Criterion makes barrels for most military rifles with blued or parkerized finishes.
Get your rifle re-barreled and be happy!
Get your rifle re-barreled and be happy!
Michael Souther
Well-Known Member
yep from past experience the Eddystone is capable of 3006 but not for the magnums. Be sure to get it head spaced before firing it and use caution with hand loads. Remington and Winchester as the one guy says there is a lot to modify one for up grade. Years ago it was done often. If the action and barrel are original it might be better to return it to military configuration and more fun to shoot and worth more.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
The ERA (Eddystone) 1917s have never been accused of being soft and suffering lug set-back. Some have been shown to be brittle and might crack, though. The .30/06 industry operating pressure (SAAMI) is 50,000CUP. The .270 Win. std operating pressure is 52,000CUP as is the 7MM Rem Mag and the .308 Winchester. The .458 Win Mag. operating pressure is 53,000CUP and the .338 Win. Mag. is 54,000CUP as is the .300 Win. Mag. If you're going to measure your margin of safety at only 3,000 or 4,000CUP, that ain't much of a 'safety' factor! ALL of the M1917s and P14s require special technique to remove the barrel safely and without doing damage to the receivers. "Hatchers' Notebook" has a lot more info about these turn of the century military actions.
codyadams
Well-Known Member
Depends on many factors. My father was gifted a nicely sporterized action by his uncle when he was young and never got around to building on it, but the action was squared away and good to go. Later in life, a buddy traded him a nice Douglas 35 cal barrel chambered in 35 Whelen AI off of another rifle that had around 100 rounds through, for a knife my father made. A couple years later, he had a good smith that worked for weatherby for a long time and knew his way around these rifles, by the name of Franz Bryner, set back the threads and rechamber it for this action. Then, some 6 or 8 years later, my brother in law and myself went in on a nice Richards Microfit stock for it, and I put in the elbow grease to finish it for him and surprise him with it for a christmas gift.
It is a very nice rifle, as well as sentimental rifle, and all he has into it is a knife he made, around $200 gunsmith fee to install the barrel, and my bro in law and myself have around $200 into the stock, plus my time finishing it. They certainly can make a fine classic rifle, but may or may not be worth the effort, that is for you to decide.
It is a very nice rifle, as well as sentimental rifle, and all he has into it is a knife he made, around $200 gunsmith fee to install the barrel, and my bro in law and myself have around $200 into the stock, plus my time finishing it. They certainly can make a fine classic rifle, but may or may not be worth the effort, that is for you to decide.
I have a Sporter 1917 Winchester in .300 H&H, heavy beast and I wouldn't want to carry it very far. However, I got it really cheap and it only cost about $700 to finish it. When purchased it had already been converted to "COO", chambered in .300 H&H, bolt face opened, feed rails worked, floor plate straightened, and was D&T for a one piece 3 screw scope base.
The most expensive part of the whole project was getting the cheap Richard's Microfit stock to fit properly. It was beyond my skill level so I took it to Kevin Weaver. I also had him add a Timney Trigger while he was at it.
Here it is after I got a scope mounted, didn't like shooting it in this configuration so I had to change it.
After Kevin worked it over.
Finished product.
Me on a good day with it.
Was it worth it? Absolutely, it couldn't be taken back to original and it was too good to scrap. I hunted with it once, and I shot an old 4 point deer with it. I still might make it a .375 H&H some day which was the original plan, but right now there is no rush.
The most expensive part of the whole project was getting the cheap Richard's Microfit stock to fit properly. It was beyond my skill level so I took it to Kevin Weaver. I also had him add a Timney Trigger while he was at it.
Here it is after I got a scope mounted, didn't like shooting it in this configuration so I had to change it.
After Kevin worked it over.
Finished product.
Me on a good day with it.
Was it worth it? Absolutely, it couldn't be taken back to original and it was too good to scrap. I hunted with it once, and I shot an old 4 point deer with it. I still might make it a .375 H&H some day which was the original plan, but right now there is no rush.
lyle2231
Well-Known Member
I obtained Winchester 1917 from the CMP years ago, I shoot cast bullets thru it at steel plate. Point is I don't put it up against a 700 or model 70. It's my fun gun. Lyman's cast bullet manual is the best book for this. Barely felt recoil is a plus.
This thread reminds be of a rifle a buddy had built.
Back in the late 90's;
P-17 with 1.125 1:12 twist 30" barrel chambered in 300 Weatherby Mag. Its weighed almost 20lbs. He shot 125gr Nosler BT at 4000fps. Seen it do over a chronograph many times.
He had a small place in the hill country of central Texas. Vertical cliff on south side (where camp and stands were) step rock near vertical to the north. Shortest shot on the place 250 yards most shots were 450 yards.
Fun place to hunt and shoot at...last day of the hunt we shot steel that he had placed on the opposite canyon wall.
I was planning to build one just like it on a Winchester action I bought, but it disappeared during my last divorce.
Still be a fun little "pop gun"...might have to check the pawn shops...last time I was looking about 2 years ago, seen some already sporterized for $400.00
Back in the late 90's;
P-17 with 1.125 1:12 twist 30" barrel chambered in 300 Weatherby Mag. Its weighed almost 20lbs. He shot 125gr Nosler BT at 4000fps. Seen it do over a chronograph many times.
He had a small place in the hill country of central Texas. Vertical cliff on south side (where camp and stands were) step rock near vertical to the north. Shortest shot on the place 250 yards most shots were 450 yards.
Fun place to hunt and shoot at...last day of the hunt we shot steel that he had placed on the opposite canyon wall.
I was planning to build one just like it on a Winchester action I bought, but it disappeared during my last divorce.
Still be a fun little "pop gun"...might have to check the pawn shops...last time I was looking about 2 years ago, seen some already sporterized for $400.00
Lotta' work to be done on a '17.
Find a smith that has experience or real knowledge in sporterizing a 1917 Enfield. I have 4 ,sporterized. One was my first rifle. My Dad and I worked on it. Three are 30-06 , one is 300 Win Mag. The only Eddystone, (in '06), I have was done by Paul Jaeger, main reason I bought it. Beautiful workmanship. All are converted to cock on open. An upgrade which makes the '17 one of the smoothest actions I have ever worked.
If you want to have it converted ,
1. To get proper headspace, the barrel will have to be taken off by machining the front of the receiver a turn or two to free up the barrel. (Receiver may crack if not done when unthreading the barrel). Keep in mind that with a bayonet, that battle rifle was intended for brutish work. So when the barrel was put on, it wasn't supposed to loosen or be removed.
That is a 26" barrel. Nice contour, but there is a" key slot" where the front open sight was anchored that will have to be filled. OR, you can have the barrel shortened by 1 ½" and crowned.
2. The sight protecting "ears" of the rear receiver should be milled to a sporter contour. Specify a contour such as a Remington 700, or Winchester M70 so finding scope base(s) will be simpler.
3. Cock on open can be done by yourself, but if the position of the sear is off, the safety may be rough to engage or maybe not at all. Firing pin protrusion should be checked/adjusted. So as long as it is at a smith's shop, have that done.
4. For a pleasant appearance, the bottom metal should be straightened. It'll cut the mag capacity from 6 to 4 for 30-06. I've seen some simple methods for that. and some a bit more involved. All required heating/welding. Whatever method used, it should be strong and the front tang should be in proper alignment so the front 'guard screw is in the receiver square. Neat and pretty also.
5. And then there is metal finishing, Bluing. The basis of metal finishing is the "polish". You want a finish that's not going to rub off. I consider Bluing an art, especially Rust Bluing.
The above 5-6 procedures should/must be done by a qualified gunsmith experienced in or familiar with the processes.
The flat spring on the Ejector breaks so keep an extra on hand ( example: Numrich Product #: 957280 ),
Selecting a stock, fitting, inletting , glass bedding and finishing ( wood), can be done by you with care and patience. It's not hard unless one is of today's "drive thru" or "internet quick fix" mentality. Keeping the barreled action square and centered in the stock is highly important.
You haven't mentioned if the rifle has sentimental value. For me that surpasses monetary value that makes the above worth while, especially in reference to something I would pass on to offspring/family. That is why I choose certain tasks in restoration /upkeep where I physically take part.
Find a smith that has experience or real knowledge in sporterizing a 1917 Enfield. I have 4 ,sporterized. One was my first rifle. My Dad and I worked on it. Three are 30-06 , one is 300 Win Mag. The only Eddystone, (in '06), I have was done by Paul Jaeger, main reason I bought it. Beautiful workmanship. All are converted to cock on open. An upgrade which makes the '17 one of the smoothest actions I have ever worked.
If you want to have it converted ,
1. To get proper headspace, the barrel will have to be taken off by machining the front of the receiver a turn or two to free up the barrel. (Receiver may crack if not done when unthreading the barrel). Keep in mind that with a bayonet, that battle rifle was intended for brutish work. So when the barrel was put on, it wasn't supposed to loosen or be removed.
That is a 26" barrel. Nice contour, but there is a" key slot" where the front open sight was anchored that will have to be filled. OR, you can have the barrel shortened by 1 ½" and crowned.
2. The sight protecting "ears" of the rear receiver should be milled to a sporter contour. Specify a contour such as a Remington 700, or Winchester M70 so finding scope base(s) will be simpler.
3. Cock on open can be done by yourself, but if the position of the sear is off, the safety may be rough to engage or maybe not at all. Firing pin protrusion should be checked/adjusted. So as long as it is at a smith's shop, have that done.
4. For a pleasant appearance, the bottom metal should be straightened. It'll cut the mag capacity from 6 to 4 for 30-06. I've seen some simple methods for that. and some a bit more involved. All required heating/welding. Whatever method used, it should be strong and the front tang should be in proper alignment so the front 'guard screw is in the receiver square. Neat and pretty also.
5. And then there is metal finishing, Bluing. The basis of metal finishing is the "polish". You want a finish that's not going to rub off. I consider Bluing an art, especially Rust Bluing.
The above 5-6 procedures should/must be done by a qualified gunsmith experienced in or familiar with the processes.
The flat spring on the Ejector breaks so keep an extra on hand ( example: Numrich Product #: 957280 ),
Selecting a stock, fitting, inletting , glass bedding and finishing ( wood), can be done by you with care and patience. It's not hard unless one is of today's "drive thru" or "internet quick fix" mentality. Keeping the barreled action square and centered in the stock is highly important.
You haven't mentioned if the rifle has sentimental value. For me that surpasses monetary value that makes the above worth while, especially in reference to something I would pass on to offspring/family. That is why I choose certain tasks in restoration /upkeep where I physically take part.
