1" tube or 30MM

[Kinetic Energy]

When looking at scope tube diameter, you can't mess with "fact" and opinions are invalidated by the "fact" that the human eye has a maximum exit pupil or light gathering ability, to 7mm only.

As long as the scope has the ability to create a 7mm exit pupil and nearly all 1 inch tubes will do that,then the real reason for selecting a 30mm tube can only be justified for other reasons.

The most common reason is because you want one, or you like the look of a particular scope designed with one.

The second reason is one of logistics, meaning the mechanical benefit of allowing scope rings to grip on the larger surface area of a 30mm tube for heavy recoiling rifles.

I have one scope only with 30mm tube and because I am a gun writer, it was given to me as an R&D exercise because I had a reputation at that time, for breaking scopes on my heavier rifles. This was a Tasco Titan 1.5-6 variable which I mounted on my .460 Weatherby in 1996 to determine how long it would last until I broke it.

The rifle has fired over 500 rounds since then with the heaviest recoiling loads ever shot from a .460 up to 600 grain weight at a chronogrpahed 2450 fps. This is serious 8000 FPE and 100 Ft Lb recoil levels.

The rifle has been around the world twice since then and has never changed zero. I so far, have not been able to break it.

Because Tasco is sold in "el cheapo" retail stores in the U.S. it does not command the same respect from the hunting fraternity as does the higher priced scopes with more traditional names.

What the average consumer does not know is that Tasco scopes are made in 3 countries. Their cheaper scopes are made in Taiwan or China and they better scopes are made in Japan with some such as the "World Class Plus" in lieu of the plain and cheaper "World Class" have turrets and lens' the same quality as the Leupold Vari 111.

I found this out during a writers seminar when I met an ex Leupold distributor who changed camps and went to Tasco and he knew the mechanical details of the scope intimately.

I am not defending Tasco or suggesting that they are top quality scopes, just highlighting that some of their products are as good as any, and cheaper if you know what to look for.

They still make what I call "disposable scopes" as does anyone who sells something that fails to do the job I intend for it. I am very hard on equipment and after killing around 5,000 animals testing rifles over 42 years, I hate cheap crap as much as anyone.

Something to ponder.

 

[brian b]

Iron Worker,
I bought my 8.5x25 L.R. a couple year's ago
and they were in the 7 to 750.00 range,just
this year Leupold changed thing's up and are
now calling the scope a vx-III instead of a
vari-xIII 8.5x25 long range.in theroy they have changed the lens coating's to be a little bit better so I am sure they want a
bit more coin. my scope has just the fine
duplex reticle as I feel you dont really
need a mil. dot if you work out a drop chart.
you might regret asking me about my 6-284
rifle as it is quite strange to say the least
but here goes: it has a yugoslavian single
shot mauser action (tricked out to improve
lock time)a trigger of unknown origin that
break's crisply at 10 oz.a hand laminated
fiberglass stock that is also of unknown
origin a 29.5" Pac-Nor 3 groove 1-8 twist
barrel,red paint and a couple hundred hour's
restoration time. when I picked the gun up
origionally it had a 1-10 twist Mcgowen barrel chambered in 240 olsen (try and find
a reamer for that)I'm sure that was way more
than what you wanted to know.just go buy a
leupold 8.5x25 and live happy everafter.
p.s. I shoot sierra 107 mk's and RL22

 

[Kinetic Energy]

Iron Worker,
Thanks for the kind words.

When you compare scopes whether rifle or spotting scopes, the magnification if stated equally or 20 power in your examples, should be exactly that. Some brands will quote on their technical specs that the actual magnification may be slightly off, such as 19.2 but the scope is still considered the 20 power model.

The light gathering ability is govered by the Objective lens (front lens)and it's ability to draw light into the scope. (The back lens is called the Ocular Lens.)

When you look for scopes there are 3 factors to look for apart from price.

1. Clear paralax free view. No distortion or focus issues even if your eye is not aligned perfectly in the center.

2. Eye relief. I like the scope to be situated about inline with the end of the tang on the rifle. You can further test this by holding the pistol grip and outstretching your thumb and if it touches the scope, it better only just reach it or else you will wear it on any rifle recoil level over .30/06.

3. Stay away from gimmicks like internal range finders and any bells and whistles. Adding this kind of crap has been around for 30 years or more and always dies a natural death, because it will fail you when you are relying on it most. If you are so far away you don't know the range, then you should not shoot anyway. (At game animals)

I regard long range as any distance that requires holdover. A .257 Weatherby or .300 RUM handloaded to potential, will provide a straight on hold on game animals to 400 yards. All the usual favorites will only reach to 300 or so.

The thing to remember is that a plain old fashioned fixed 6 power or 2-7 variable will cover all hunting out to 300 yards. When you go out to 500 with slight hold overs of around 2 feet, you need the 3-9 up to 4.5-14 range.

If you want to smear the grass with varmints out to the ranges you regularly miss, I suggest the larger variables up to 20 power.

I have a 6.5-20 Leupold Vari 111 on my custom .25/06 and handload 100 grain TXS bullets at 3508 fps average which is pretty effective as a medium game rifle. Loaded with 87 grain Ballistic tips at 3750 fps, it is as flat as a string.

Hope this info helps.