0 vs 20 MOA Scope Rail
- Thread starter Sam C
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You are correct., my bad. Its 1 3/4 high at 100 please don't ban me from the forum.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
You are good. 1 3/4" sounds about right for some of the medium case sized cartridges. Just wanted to make sure.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
If you were on the edge of elevation travel, it puts a lot of tension on the erector springs. For most scopes, adding 20MOA shouldn't put it that close to the maximum travel.
I have a few scopes that are pretty old and have been on 20MOA rails for the entire life, and get twisted on a lot. They are still going strong.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
OK, teach an old dog a new trick.
I have never tried this method. I just pull the bolt and bore sight the scope, usually gets me withing 3-6" @ 100 yards.
Let me hear about the mirror method. I would love a new tool in the arsenal of knowledge. More than one way to skin a cat is always a good thing.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
Objective lens on mirror, you should see the reticle and a image of the reflected reticle, off center, up or down etc. I have centered scopes to this occasionally but never measured what I saw to click corrections. It could be done just to test it.
? I might need a picture of short video for clarity.
Yes, please.? I might need a picture of short video for clarity.
I've got a 375 ruger with a 20moa rail that caused a zero issue . The cheap vortex scope I planned to torture test didn't have enough travel to zero at 100 yds . I was hoping to see how long the scope would last . 
I'll have to find a good scope with more adjustment to run on it for a 500yd elk gun.
I'll have to find a good scope with more adjustment to run on it for a 500yd elk gun.I use Burris Signature XTR rings, and for long range like we're talking here, a 20 MOA base. I get the scope optically centered as best I can, then use the ring inserts to put the scope as near as I can to the desired initial sighting point. In this situation I might put that initial sighting point kind of high, like 20 MOA, so that at distance the scope will still be operating near the optical center. You can use the insert sets to move the scope in almost any direction so pretty easy to do this. These rings are also very rugged and offer the bonus of not marking the scope tube. Hope this helps the discussion.
Lenny Foffa
Well-Known Member
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I have a 36X Sightron 1 inch tube , on a 20 MOA Leupold rail on my Heavy Savage in .308. Impossible to see clearly at 100 yards. Very Foggy . The problem is that the Scope Elevation is dialed down as low as it can possibly go. Sent scope back to Sightron and the owner/ president called me and asked why this scope is adjusted down do low, until it cannot go any lower. I said 20 MOA rail. He said please remove that rail and just use regular bases. I am going to take his advice and correct that this summer. My thinking is that to a range 500 / 600 yards, a 20 MOA rail is not necessary, and this 308 is not a 1000 to 1200 yard rifle. My Weatherby Mark V in .270 Weatherby Mag has a 8.5X to 25 X Leupold VX3HD Wind plex. Its on Leupold D D steel bases. ZERO MOA . With a 100 yard Zero, there is plenty of Elevation out to 1100 yards as used at the Bang Steel Shooting school. Not real sure when I would really NEED a 20 MOA rail. ???? I think it's important to the guy's that shoot the 1200 yard to a Mile( 1700). They may really need one. Just my opinion.
Are 0moa bases flat and parallel to the rifle bore or are they slightly canted? Seems if they were parallel we would have been raising the bullet impact 6-8 clicks at a minimum plus whatever the bullet drop would be at 100yds just to be zeroed, but I don't recall having to do that in past. Talked with my dad about that, he didn't have any insight.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
Flat.
