What process for new brass…

So I have a batch of new adg 6.5prc brass. They recommend sizing it and even though their packaging is good the necks have a few dings in them.
So I have a set of hornaday match grade dies and a Lee collet die. What would you guys recommend?
Thanks for any help

I neck size all my new brass. I usually find it way tighter than what I like and you pop out any bent necks/case mouths.

I would use the match die,simply because the collet will not remove a dent in the neck. They squeeze in, not push out. Also deburr neck. That's my $.02 other shooters might have a different process.

Just processed some new Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass a day or two ago. Like FireFlyFishing I neck size and use a expander mandrel to set the irregular necks to the size I want. That takes out any dents.

It depends if you are planning on jamming the bullets in the lands for fire forming or not. If you are, I'd set the full length die to size about 3/4 of the neck, load 'em at jam and fire form them. If not, I'd expand them up 1 caliber (7mm), then set the full length die to create a false shoulder so the case is snug in the chamber when the bolt is closed.

Rflshootr said:

It depends if you are planning on jamming the bullets in the lands for fire forming or not.

Click to expand...

I'm putting together a 243 Ackley on a savage, barrel, brass, and some projectiles should be here this evening. Because of fire forming for the Ackley 40° chamber I'm going to deburr necks, anneal(flame, can't afford amp), and use a .241 mandrel, check case lengths and trim everything if there are large deviations. In theory I shouldn't have to trim again being ackleyized, trimming is like going to the dentist, I do everything I can to avoid it. The only reason I would think about running the new brass into a full length sizing die(minus expander ball) is if the chamber is to tight for the new brass, then I may have issues down the road anyway.

I treat new brass just like fired brass.

ranch manager said:

I'm putting together a 243 Ackley on a savage, barrel, brass, and some projectiles should be here this evening. Because of fire forming for the Ackley 40° chamber I'm going to deburr necks, anneal(flame, can't afford amp), and use a .241 mandrel, check case lengths and trim everything if there are large deviations. In theory I shouldn't have to trim again being ackleyized, trimming is like going to the dentist, I do everything I can to avoid it. The only reason I would think about running the new brass into a full length sizing die(minus expander ball) is if the chamber is to tight for the new brass, then I may have issues down the road anyway.

Click to expand...

You'll get better, more accurate, straighter brass if you mandrel the necks up to 6.5 and then create a false shoulder with a full length Ackley die. But do as you wish.

I anneal all new brass (for Starline ... Lapua comes already annealed). Annealed brass is length trimmed, flash hole cleaned inside the case, full length sized and bumped, sizing wax removed, mouth chamfered lightly, primed, charged, seated.

rfd said:

I anneal all new brass (for Starline ... Lapua comes already annealed). Annealed brass is length trimmed, flash hole cleaned inside the case, full length sized and bumped, sizing wax removed, mouth chamfered lightly, primed, charged, seated.

Click to expand...

All brass comes annealed. Some companies, like Lapua leave the annealed look.

Rflshootr said:

You'll get better, more accurate, straighter brass if you mandrel the necks up to 6.5 and then create a false shoulder with a full length Ackley die. But do as you wish.

Click to expand...

That's interesting information, unfortunately information is usually pistol powder and cream of wheat or loading stout charged 243 and just shoot. I'm interested in your method for sure but don't have a 6.5 mandrel as of yet. I'll read up on that method, thanks. I'm not using cream of wheat and pistol powder that's for sure.

FireFlyFishing said:

All brass comes annealed. Some companies, like Lapua leave the annealed look.

Click to expand...

Starline recommends annealing their new brass - I find it makes a difference, particularly if bottleneck brass is bumped. YMMV.

ranch manager said:

That's interesting information, unfortunately information is usually pistol powder and cream of wheat or loading stout charged 243 and just shoot. I'm interested in your method for sure but don't have a 6.5 mandrel as of yet. I'll read up on that method, thanks. I'm not using cream of wheat and pistol powder that's for sure.

Click to expand...

1st thing I would do is install the barrel, remove the firing pin from the bolt, then try a couple cases in the chamber. If the bolt falls shut easily, then use the false shoulder method. Read this....different caliber but same technique.


Keep in mind, that for the 1st 3 firings and resizing's, you don't bump the shoulder unless the bolt won't close, and then only touch the shoulder so that you still have some resistance when closing the bolt with the firing pin removed so you get a good feel. That way you will get the brass to sharpen up with the least amount of firings. After that, if you want to bump .001 or .002, that's up to you. I always like that slight little drag on the bolt myself. And btw, keep your bolt lugs lubed, especially during this process.
Another tip: when you lube the lugs, insert the bolt in the action, hold back on the trigger, then close the bolt. That keeps the lube from getting wiped off the lugs from the bolt lug ramps in the action.
If you have a 25 cal and or 6.5 Anything die, you have an expander. Just make sure if it has a knurl on it, that the knurl doesn't drag the inside of the neck and mark it up on the way in. Some do, some don't. Lube the inside of the neck very well!

Well if you have a blue printed rig I would square up the primer end of the cases, I have a very old Wilson lathe style trimmer. Then I would turn the necks.