amp users for answers

lyle2231 said:

Update …. Just checked, anneal first then anneal

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Try this again… anneal then resize

lyle2231 said:

Not for converting. Verify this next comment, I recall the instructions suggesting you resize then anneal. On AMP site pdf instructions are available.

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Pretty sure you always anneal before a resizing operation, not after. I smashed a bunch of lapua 260 rem down to 6.5 creedmoor and even made some 6mm dasher to see if it could be done. You start off usually with fired brass. You use Aztec mode and the proper pilot to analyze a representative case.

Then you lubricate and resize the case. If you're going from something like 308 win or 260 rem down to 6.5 creedmoor; you step the neck down and bump the shoulder back in a few operations. You anneal between operations. OR, because it isn't a huge leap down, you may be able to resize brass in 1 operation. Then fire form it. It depends. Some brass will just crush and flare out at the shoulder or the neck will get shoved down into the shoulder.

It's a process to make much smaller cases from larger cases. Requires a series of annealing, stepping the neck and shoulder down a small amount, changing the pilot to whichever case family the resized piece fits in, analyzing a new piece, re-annealing, repeating the size down, trimming excess, turning down the necks, new pilot, new analyze etc.. until your down to where you need to be. I think I burned 9 or so pieces trying get down to dasher from 260 rem. I did it outbof boredom and curiosity, I wouldn't want to go through that process unless I had no other option.

That being said. Going up is different. Say from 300 PRC to 30 Sherman mag, that is a fire form operation. You can either set bullets long so they are jammed when loaded, or use a mandrel to size the neck up one caliber and then use bushings to size most of the neck back down. That leaves a ring around the base of the neck that the case can headspace on, a false shoulder. The jamming method is the easiest for that and doesn't require additional annealing.

ARlife4me said:

thinking about getting an amp for custom brass and would like feedback about pros and cons of the system.

i see there are code for preloaded info and codes for what each of your brass have generated for reuse for next use? question is when changing shoulder angle and/or neck size what is needed and how is this done?

more questions will follow after posted responses most likely.

i'm wanting a good understanding of the process before committing a purchase as i'm a long way from anyone that could be of an in-person help?

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One more thing…. After 50 or so cases the unit has a two stage cooling fan . Leave it run unitil the fan reverts to low speed. Usually around 5-8 minutes. Just enough time to get another Pepsi.

ARlife4me said:

so, knowing your wall thickness is a necessity along with brand (and possibly lot#) is a must?

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Nope, you don't have to know any of that. You use the Aztec mode, sacrifice 1 piece of brass in the lot you're going to use, record the setting and you're good for that lot of brass. If you make any changes (neck up/down, neck-turn, etc), you analyze another piece and take another note.

I anneal about every 3 firings. For pretty much everything except 223's, I rarely have more than about 50 rounds loaded. I'll run that lot of 50 until the primer pockets are too loose or I lose a bunch afield and need to start over. I do keep plenty of prepped brass so that if I need something quick, it's a simple matter of prime, charge, and seat a bullet.

My "process" is to run cases through a universal de-capping die.

Clean the cases, which may or may not include a dip into the Iosso liquid and always finishes in the tumbler. Any staining on the neck prior to annealing, will be there permanently once you anneal, so, I like clean cases.

Anneal

Size and tumble to get the lube off

Trim

Prime, charge, seat

As others have said using Aztec mode you only sacrifice 1 piece of brass for each batch. My process goes like this.

Decap using universal decapping die
Clean/tumble if needed
Anneal, I anneal every firing
Resize
Remove lube
Trim/debur and chamfur if needed
Prime, charge, seat bullet

I don't load more than 25-50 rounds at a time myself for hunting purposes. I start off with 100 pieces of brass and I'll prep all of them and prime, charge, seat as needed. Things I shoot more volume of I'll load more.

from their site it seems that aztec is preferable or more suited for use? so, the pilots are a caliber and shoulder angle specific? after annealing it's required to size w/neck expander?

ARlife4me said:

from their site it seems that aztec is preferable or more suited for use? so, the pilots are a caliber and shoulder angle specific? after annealing it's required to size w/neck expander?

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Yes you'll need the correct size for the cartridge you plan on annealing. And depending on brass some manufacturers will give you the recommended code per lot (Peterson does this) and usually clean, anneal then size. Some people might go in a different order but that's worked well for me and many others that I know who reload.

so, after annealing do you need to fl size or annealing is in leu of?

ARlife4me said:

so, after annealing do you need to fl size or annealing is in leu of?

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Full length or neck whatever you prefer after annealing

ARlife4me said:

from their site it seems that aztec is preferable or more suited for use? so, the pilots are a caliber and shoulder angle specific? after annealing it's required to size w/neck expander?

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Pilots set the depth to get the neck shoulder in the correct placement for the inductor heat.

Pilots can be for 1 cartridge, or a "family" of cartridges. IE, 243, 260, 7-08, 308, 338Fed, 358win all use the same pilot. The 'Creed family all use the same pilot. 222 is its own.

ARlife4me said:

so, after annealing do you need to fl size or annealing is in leu of?

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Brass and copper work harden. Every time you bend it or change its shape it gets harder. Annealing just makes the brass soften back to its natural state. That's it.

You anneal so that you can get more uses out of your brass without it getting too hard and cracking. Because properly annealed brass is the same softness each time you resize it, you get more consistent sizing and more consistent ammunition due to brass consistency.

It isn't something you do in liue of something else, it's an additional process to your reloading process.

ARlife4me said:

from their site it seems that aztec is preferable or more suited for use? so, the pilots are a caliber and shoulder angle specific? after annealing it's required to size w/neck expander?

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The best way to see how many pilots you need is to go to Amp Annealer web site and look up your cartridge on this page: https://www.ampannealing.com/aztec-settings/

As an example I looked up REM 25-06 and Winchester .270 and they both use the same pilot #14.

Sdvldog1371 said:

Brass and copper work harden. Every time you bend it or change its shape it gets harder. Annealing just makes the brass soften back to its natural state. That's it.

You anneal so that you can get more uses out of your brass without it getting too hard and cracking. Because properly annealed brass is the same softness each time you resize it, you get more consistent sizing and more consistent ammunition due to brass consistency.

It isn't something you do in liue of something else, it's an additional process to your reloading process.

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seems like from reading post from other threads pertaining annealing, it's backwards from your statement about it softens instead of hardens? still learning about the amp and benefits of it.