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ARlife4me

ARlife4me

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2018
Messages
3,578
Location
Texas
thinking about getting an amp for custom brass and would like feedback about pros and cons of the system.

i see there are code for preloaded info and codes for what each of your brass have generated for reuse for next use? question is when changing shoulder angle and/or neck size what is needed and how is this done?

more questions will follow after posted responses most likely.

i'm wanting a good understanding of the process before committing a purchase as i'm a long way from anyone that could be of an in-person help?
 
ARlife4me said:
thinking about getting an amp for custom brass and would like feedback about pros and cons of the system.

i see there are code for preloaded info and codes for what each of your brass have generated for reuse for next use? question is when changing shoulder angle and/or neck size what is needed and how is this done?

more questions will follow after posted responses most likely.

i'm wanting a good understanding of the process before committing a purchase as i'm a long way from anyone that could be of an in-person help?
Click to expand...
I always use the Aztec mode (determines custom settings via a sacrificial piece of brass) for any new piece of brass or any changes to previously tested brass. Because....

My experience is no two different brass brands tested, return the same setting even though they are same caliber.

I would expect either shoulder angle, or neck thickness changes, would test with different results.

Hope that answers your question.
 
PddPdd said:
I always use the Aztec mode (determines custom settings via a sacrificial piece of brass) for any new piece of brass or any changes to previously tested brass. Because....

My experience is no two different brass brands tested, return the same setting even though they are same caliber.

I would expect either shoulder angle, or neck thickness changes, would test with different results.

Hope that answers your question.
Click to expand...
is there different adapters that are used or is it a just insert and let the machine do its thing?
 
ARlife4me said:
is there different adapters that are used or is it a just insert and let the machine do its thing?
Click to expand...
Different pilots for different cartridges they have good info on there website

Cons- price
Pros- fast, consistent, easy and probably most accurate on the market

Don't regret buying mine at all. I can do 50 of my 280ai brass in about 6 minutes and even faster on the smaller cartridges
 
Don't think shoulder angle/neck size has much to do with it. Brass composition and thickness will determine that. Pilot is cartridge based (length).

That said, if you had 3 cartridges based off the same piece of brass (say 6.5 prc). If you neck up to 7 or down to 6 from the same case lot, each of the three cartridges would use the same pilot but likely have slighty different annealing values due to the change in neck thickness.

Hope this helps.
 
The pilots are sized to get the neck/shoulder of the case in the right spot for the heat that the inductor will deliver. The shoulder angle doesn't matter, the shoulder position does. I.E. 22-250 and the Creedmoor family are the same overall case length, but, the Creed's shoulder is further forward and that family has it's own pilot. 243, 260, 7-08, and 308 all use the same pilot as their shoulders are all essentially in the same spot.

Pilots don't change assuming you're not moving the shoulder.

Settings might/do change with new lots of brass, neck turning, or changing neck diameter.

Here's the cartridges and their corresponding pilot numbers:

AMP Pilots

Clear as mud?
 
Last edited:
PddPdd said:
I always use the Aztec mode (determines custom settings via a sacrificial piece of brass) for any new piece of brass or any changes to previously tested brass. Because....

My experience is no two different brass brands tested, return the same setting even though they are same caliber.

I would expect either shoulder angle, or neck thickness changes, would test with different results.

Hope that answers your question.
Click to expand...
Whenever I get a new brass delivery I analyse a sacrificial case, enter it into my book and proceed with the annealing process on the remaining pieces. HTH
 
so, knowing your wall thickness is a necessity along with brand (and possibly lot#) is a must?
 
ARlife4me said:
so, knowing your wall thickness is a necessity along with brand (and possibly lot#) is a must?
Click to expand...
For me going through the analysis feature of the machine for each batch of brass eliminates the complexity of the setup of the machine. ALWAYS enter the settings into your book. For me it's Date, head stamp, pilot number, machine settings on annealing mode. Referencing prior sessions saves some time but once you've got the setup it's no time at all to do 200 cases. Go get a $1.00 baker pan to drop the annealed cases into as they are HOT! They don't take long to cool. About the same time a fired case from an AR takes to cool. Go have a Pepsi/ coffee and the batch will be fine to the touch.
I like my machine.
 
lyle2231 said:
For me going through the analysis feature of the machine for each batch of brass eliminates the complexity of the setup of the machine. ALWAYS enter the settings into your book. For me it's Date, head stamp, pilot number, machine settings on annealing mode. Referencing prior sessions saves some time but once you've got the setup it's no time at all to do 200 cases. Go get a $1.00 baker pan to drop the annealed cases into as they are HOT! They don't take long to cool. About the same time a fired case from an AR takes to cool. Go have a Pepsi/ coffee and the batch will be fine to the touch.
I like my machine.
Click to expand...
are you annealing to not size brass in a die or for converting?
 

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