Anti-Seize

Rick Richard said:

Yeah, I understand and should have been a bit more concise. They recommend NOTHING on the threads. They said any stuff added to the threads collects carbon residue and etc.

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I'd be interested to read the exact verbiage. Sounds like a great way to spend many hours trying to get stuff apart. Once I started being liberal with anti seize I stopped having problems. You don't get carbon infiltrating mated threads. You do get it welding the outside surface of dry threads together.

ATH said:

I'd be interested to read the exact verbiage. Sounds like a great way to spend many hours trying to get stuff apart. Once I started being liberal with anti seize I stopped having problems. You don't get carbon infiltrating mated threads. You do get it welding the outside surface of dry threads together.

Click to expand...

Rick Richard said:

Yeah, I understand and should have been a bit more concise. They recommend NOTHING on the threads. They said any stuff added to the threads collects carbon residue and etc.

Click to expand...

Yes, I always use anti seize, one every threaded part. And every time I take them apart, I clean them off, and remove carbon, and anti seize 'em back up before assembly.

ATH said:

I'd be interested to read the exact verbiage. Sounds like a great way to spend many hours trying to get stuff apart. Once I started being liberal with anti seize I stopped having problems. You don't get carbon infiltrating mated threads. You do get it welding the outside surface of dry threads together.

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Call them. See if you get the same answer as I did.

You definitely run the risk of galling/cold welding with completely dry threads. I would never take the risk, especially if the threads are tight (might not even be able to fully assemble them before they cold weld). It's a serious issue with stainless threads

Tons of products out there that have already been mentioned that will work well. For light use almost any of them will work, otherwise find one with higher rated heat resistance if you'll be running long strings of fire, such as an AR15.

I came across this product while shopping for a new suppressor, Ceram-x, from HUXWRX.

My Banish 30 has no instructions regarding what to put on the threads.

The Ceram-x product is advertised for suppressor use at least.

My experience with anti-seize is only based on automotive use and it's very messy to use.

I have had great success with Birchwood Casey choke tube lube on my choke tubes when competitively shooting trap. I did have a choke tube swell and cause constriction in the barrel of a 1300 that was only lubed with the factory shipping oil.