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First ever pre-fit barrel build
- Thread starter Korhil78
- Start date
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What method did you use to remove the original barrel from the Tikka?
The easy method lol….i bought an action that already had the barrel taken off.
The folks I know have had to run a tool in right at the edge of the action to get them to break free. Obviously messes up the barrel unless you trim/rechamber/thread.
Went back out and shot 66.5 Gr to 68 Gr of retumbo.
66.5
68 Gr
No real difference in accuracy and the velocity of 66.5 was 2940 fps with no pressure signs at all. 68 Gr was just starting to show a faint ejector mark and was going 3010 fps. I could get more velocity with a powder such as N560 but this is the powder that my buddy had bought so we used it. I convinced him to just go with the 66.5 Gr load as there were no pressure signs and the accuracy was still there.
66.5
68 Gr
No real difference in accuracy and the velocity of 66.5 was 2940 fps with no pressure signs at all. 68 Gr was just starting to show a faint ejector mark and was going 3010 fps. I could get more velocity with a powder such as N560 but this is the powder that my buddy had bought so we used it. I convinced him to just go with the 66.5 Gr load as there were no pressure signs and the accuracy was still there.
davidinoregon
Member
Love it when if comes together like that. Nice work
Southern 62
Well-Known Member
Wonder how many of us that's never put a rifle together like you did are looking at doing now. I know I am!!! Thank you for sharing with us.
Well if you have any questions, feel free to send me a PM. It's pretty dang simple if I can do it.
claybreaker
Well-Known Member
OK I have another question.
If you have an issue with the head space. Either A)to much or B)to little. How do you resolve it?
Normally I think (I've never build a rifle) you do the following.
A) With to much I think you have to remove the barrel, cut one turn off the shoulder on the barrel (if indexed to sight holes or cartridge stamp mark) or less than a turn and rechamber (if needed) to achieve proper space.
B) You have to deepen the chamber. Maybe reinsert the reamer/finish reamer while the barrel remains on the receiver.
Obviously most of the home DIYer is not setup to perform these task.
So if have you received a "Prefit" barrel or a receiver that is out of specification and one or both needed to be replaced?
Then my question is are these returnable parts after they have been installed?
Thanks,
If you have an issue with the head space. Either A)to much or B)to little. How do you resolve it?
Normally I think (I've never build a rifle) you do the following.
A) With to much I think you have to remove the barrel, cut one turn off the shoulder on the barrel (if indexed to sight holes or cartridge stamp mark) or less than a turn and rechamber (if needed) to achieve proper space.
B) You have to deepen the chamber. Maybe reinsert the reamer/finish reamer while the barrel remains on the receiver.
Obviously most of the home DIYer is not setup to perform these task.
So if have you received a "Prefit" barrel or a receiver that is out of specification and one or both needed to be replaced?
Then my question is are these returnable parts after they have been installed?
Thanks,
I have 2 going on 3 that I've built just because I felt the need to get what I want. Now to finish and load develope. I built over 50 AR's as they are easy, but decided to give it a go on some ba's. Building long action magnum or not in AR's isn't something available,..........yet! That's my only reason for the 2 bolts I'm assembling. I hope I'll have as good results as you have when finished
Dunderhead
Well-Known Member
That's awesome! I'm basically in the same boat, getting tooled up to build my first and my buddy was so intrigued he want's one too. Thanks for sharing and good luck with the next ones.
Most guys are using Savage or Remage prefits. They use a barrel nut to lock down the barrel. You literally thread the barrel down until it contacts the go gauge then tighten the nut.(back it off a smidge first) Then you check no go gauge if it goes you need to tighten barrel down a shade and lock the nut and check again.
claybreaker
Well-Known Member
Bluedog69,
Thanks for the video posting. Yea I understand the Savage/Remage method of setting the HS with the barrel nut. The barrel nut is a great plus for the DIY'er AND it gives you the ability to change barrel/cartridges and use the same action.
The question I am posing pertains to the build referenced in this thread with a Tikka action and a prefit barrel (no barrel nut).
Thanks for the video posting. Yea I understand the Savage/Remage method of setting the HS with the barrel nut. The barrel nut is a great plus for the DIY'er AND it gives you the ability to change barrel/cartridges and use the same action.
The question I am posing pertains to the build referenced in this thread with a Tikka action and a prefit barrel (no barrel nut).
Being that I don't have anything to fix the headspace, I would send it back to whoever did the chambering. For mine that would be Proof Research.
Just keep in mind, if you do anything to try to fix it, you will void the warranty.
Just keep in mind, if you do anything to try to fix it, you will void the warranty.
