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So, Muzzle Brake attachment….

Are you talking about the factory radial style brake?

If so, those are the worst style brake available IMO. Lots of extra noise and minimal recoil mitigation benefit. Not to mention if you shoot prone blasting first and debris everywhere.
LOL, yes! I had radial brakes from Vais and Quiet Brake from Gentry (there is nothing quiet about it) and could not get rid of them quickly enough. Unfortunately, I still have a rifle with Vais because it came with it. I have other MBs of the same caliber, but the muzzle thread differs. I am leaving it as-is for now.

Gentry quiet MB.jpg




 
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2 things, if stainless to stainless, use nickel anti seize on the threads.
I do not recommend loctite use on any muzzle device.
Put it on by hand, use a wrench to nip it up enough that you can't easily undo it by hand, that's it, done…
Have seen over tightened factory guns several times, galling when undoing this is a real thing, do not overtighten them, threads are thin, be gentle.

Cheers.
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Have I mentioned Before, just how MUCH, We in my Family Like, the PVA "Back Country" Brakes ???
"Concussion / Blast", IS Mitigated away from, the Shooter ( As much as Possible & Still "Works well" to, reduce Recoil ! ) and WITH, a Self-Timing Nut !
Cartridges Used,. 6.5 Creed, 6.5 PRC, .270 WSM and,. 7MM PRC !
We use Anti Seize Grease then, Level and tighten Nut with, Wrench, "Goot N tight",. Done ( None have, Loosened up,.. NONE !! ).
Good, Ear Plugs or Muff's, SHOULD Always, Be used !
 
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The .270 WSM is, a Sub, 8 Pound Tikka, and has been "Tamed" so Well that, my 14 Y/o grandson can shoot 20-25 Rounds of Practice at Steel, with NO,.. Recoil "issues",.. No Flinching and No, complaints, from him !
A few weeks ago, he shot a Nice, Buck Antelope ( Prone ) at, 258 yards ( DRT, thru Upper shoulders ! ) W/ 140 gr. Berger Classic Hunt @ 3,175 FPS
It died ( disappeared ) so Fast that, he thought that, he Missed it !!!
 
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I recall being told by someone years ago, who should have known the details about why, to never use copper based anti-seize on anything stainless steel. I have not been able to find anything online to support this, but it sticks in my head. So, right or wrong, I find myself sticking to it.

LPS Copper based has been my general go-to anti-seize for decades. Lately I've switched to using Lock-tite 8023 Marine Grade Anti-Seize as my general go-to and some higher demand applications get Armite MIL-PRF-907F This is a lead based anti-seize and the only place that I've been able to locate it for sale is here. It reminds me of the old Lubriplate lead based anti-seize, which apparently is NLA. It is rated to operate from -350°F (-212°C) to 2987°F (1641°C) Note that it is much easier to find MIL-PRF_907H, which is not the same stuff!
 
Yes, I am talking about the Factory break. My thought is that 6.5 Creedmoor those issues probably won't affect me very much.

If you look around online, there is some testing with larger and larger holes on muzzle brakes the effect is not as big as one might think.
It's not about hole size, it's about design.

For recoil mitigation the angled 90° port style brakes are the most effective but to the detriment of blast and noise directed toward the shooter.

The straight 90° port design is close but is more friendly to the shooter.

The radial style are at the bottom of the effectiveness list with the added issue of debris blast when shooting prone.
 
I've been pondering the antiseize portion of this conversation and I think I would use Birchwood Casey choke tube lube. It's graphite based, designed for use with stainless and moly steel.
 
I can just about guarantee that Birchwood-Casey is not the mfg of that product. They're either buying it in bulk and packaging it themselves, or they have a private labeling agreement with the actual mfg of the product. A graphite containing anti-seize shouldn't be too difficult to find, but any marine application anti-seize will work with stainless steel, carbon steel, and aluminum.
 
Tikka recommends locktite in their manual….which in the engineering world is often used as a thread sealant
 
Attached is the recommendation from Mountain Tactical for installation of their muzzle brake. They recommend against using anti-seize, locktite or Rockset. Dry is their recommendation but I think I'd use at least a little oil.
 

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Yes, I am talking about the Factory break. My thought is that 6.5 Creedmoor those issues probably won't affect me very much.

If you look around online, there is some testing with larger and larger holes on muzzle brakes the effect is not as big as one might think.
My wife has the Tikka Roughtech in .300WinMag with the factory radial brake. I told her I didn't expect that brake design to be very effective and that we might need to put something better on it.

After shooting it she said, "It's plenty easy to shoot, don't you change a thing." I think that D18 barreled action hits the sweet spot, weight-wise. Just heavy enough to be easy to shoot.
 
Tikka recommends locktite in their manual….which in the engineering world is often used as a thread sealant
545 is, can't count on any of the thread locking agents to truly seal the threads. They will do it until you absolutely need them to, and then one or more will fail. That's for pressure, IME both thread lockers and 545 are useless in vacuum.
 
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