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Sporter Barrel Muzzle Threading

AverageJoe90

AverageJoe90

Well-Known Member
LRH Supporter
Joined
Sep 4, 2024
Messages
68
Location
Helena, MT
Good morning. I know this has probably been beat to death, but I still couldn't find a definitive answer after my research. I want to put a muzzle break on a 300 win mag that I have. The rifle is a Red Hawk Rifles Alaskan ti clone with a sporter barrel. The muzzle measures .656 at the end, so it's too small for 5/8x24 threads. Could I get away with 9/16x24 threads, or do I need to find a gunsmith to make an adapter, to thread onto the end of the barrel that will accept 5/8x24?

The rifle is a shooter, so I'm hoping I won't degrade the accuracy doing this. Does anyone recommend a gunsmith in the Helena, MT area to perform the work? Thanks for the help fellas.
 
That would have to be a gunsmith operation. When Dennis Earnhardt was at Capital Sports he did them but since he retired I don't know.
Their gunsmithing is good quality so I would check with them. Dennis has a brother that has a gunsmithing shop on Montana Avenue North going toward Bobs Valley Market. I think it is Wild West Gunsmithing. He is very sharp and most likely does adapters for muzzle breaks/cans but can't remember his name.
 
Last edited:
I just checked and Dennis owns the gun shop called Frontier Gun Shop on North Montana. Can't remember his brothers name that used to work at Capital Sports and retired. Dennis is sharp and re-barreled a rifle for my brother in law that shoots lights out but Capital Sports has done work for me in the past and is great also. No bad decision either way.
Let me know which way you go as I need to do the same but keep putting it off.
 
I am not sure how much material a gunsmith needs but 5/8 is .625 when converted to a decimal. The threading might still be feasible.
 
You need to account for the root diameter of the thread and also have enough meat left between the thread depth and the bore.
 
Yeah, I've been reading through some comments from JE Custom on other threads. They seem to have a pretty good idea on what is needed. Last thing I want to do is cause myself more issues. Guess I just need to toughen up the ole shoulder haha.
 
When I was young I could and did shoot any rifle I could get my hands on with no problem.
I am old now and felt the recoil on my 300 win mag and changed to a better recoil pad and it helped big time!
Another thing helped. At our range a fellow competition shooter said that I was holding my rifle in the crease of my shoulder and said to try it closer the my right pectoral muscle and that made even more help plus it give me better scope alignment. Recoil problem solved.
James Eagleman uses that technique in his videos and we all know he teaches people how to shoot long range.
Just a thought
 
if you're doing a brake you can get away with a little less shoulder and smaller threads maybe 34 or 36 tpi instead of 16 or 24 which let's you do a brake with a smaller diameter barrel. easier to brake a small barrel than set it up for a can, but you can always run a face mount brake that indexes off the crown instead of the shoulder if you have to. plenty of options for a small diameter barrel
 
9/16x24 is what I put on most sporter barrels. For brakes and suppressors with muzzle devices that can accommodate that thread size it's no problem. However, if you end up running a suppressor that doesn't accommodate the thread size, then you'll need an adapter. The 9/16 to 5/8 adapters add length as the thread diameters are too close in size. If you want an adapter that is flush fitting to the muzzle, then your smith will most likely need to thread 1/2". I'm not a fan of 1/2" threads on 30 cals myself.
 
AverageJoe90 said:
Good morning. I know this has probably been beat to death, but I still couldn't find a definitive answer after my research. I want to put a muzzle break on a 300 win mag that I have. The rifle is a Red Hawk Rifles Alaskan ti clone with a sporter barrel. The muzzle measures .656 at the end, so it's too small for 5/8x24 threads. Could I get away with 9/16x24 threads, or do I need to find a gunsmith to make an adapter, to thread onto the end of the barrel that will accept 5/8x24?

The rifle is a shooter, so I'm hoping I won't degrade the accuracy doing this. Does anyone recommend a gunsmith in the Helena, MT area to perform the work? Thanks for the help fellas.
Click to expand...
This is from the LRI website and may answer some of your questions in regards to barrel threading.

www.longriflesinc.com

GUNSMITHING SERVICES: Muzzle Threading AND Crowning service

The incredible surge in the popularity of suppressors makes a threaded muzzle almost standard equipment on today's precision rifle. LRI is well-equipped for this extremely popular upgrade. With our resources and experience, your device will attach trouble-free every time. Muzzle threads for...
www.longriflesinc.com


"...The thread shoulder on the barrel that a suppressor squares up against is an important feature that should be respected for direct-mount type cans. LRI advocates for a minimum of .100" diameter increase over the major diameter of the threads.

Examples:

  • 1/2-28 = .600" Shoulder Dia.
  • 9/16-24 = .6625" Shoulder Dia.
  • 5/8-24 = .725" Shoulder Dia.
  • 3/4-24 = .850" Shoulder Dia.
  • M18x1 = .810" Shoulder Dia.
  • "CUSTOM" = +.100" Shoulder Dia. over Major Thread Outside Diameter.

...Last, the caliber and cartridge for a particular setup must be considered. As a general rule, LRI prefers a minimum of .100" wall thickness between the barrel groove diameter and the root diameter of the thread machined at the muzzle. This value does have some room for judgment. A 300-378 Weatherby Magnum is a powerful cartridge with muzzle pressures significantly higher than a 30-30 lever action the same barrel length. It would be acceptable to reduce the wall thickness for the smaller cartridge.

Our experience has shown that a thin wall muzzle has the potential to "bell mouth" over time. When a crown bell mouths, the rifle's accuracy suffers because the bore ID dimensions change. You, as the user, may be compelled to think the barrel "let go" due to throat erosion when it's actually because the muzzle was threaded with too thin of a wall thickness."
 

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