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Nickle cases anyone reload them?

Buzzsaw said:
I remember WAY back in the day when Speer sold loaded ammo, they came in nickel cases. When I reloaded them, the necks would split after 1 or two loadings. How about the Federal Terminal Accent nickel cases? Should I keep them or chunk-em?
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I reload all our nickel brass. Typing this in a box with my 300wsm nickel reloads. Looking at a big doe. No issues in several hundred shots, I just don't think you can expect as many reuses on the case necks. 20241013_073015.jpg
 
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I tossed my nickel Winchester .280Rem cases after 4-5 cycles. I had annealed and turned necks. At first no problems but after 4 cycles they became extremely difficult to F/L size, like a major force effort to push them into the F/L die despite being well lubed. In comparison ordinary brass cases having same history had no problems. The die was inspected and cleaned. Looking at both brass & nickel cases under 10X I saw many shallow longitudinal scratches just above the web area on the nickel cases that were not on the brass cases that had equal velocity. I don't have a clue as why?? I can only guess that the electroplated nickel surface went thru some kind of work hardening that caused more resistance & friction against the inside of the F/L die. No problems with neck splits, nice bullet slip fit into fired nickel cases. Headspace OK, no case separations or indications of. Neck turning cutter/blade easily cut thru thin nickel plate to brass.
 
You can reload nickel plated cases without too much difficulty.

Just remember that it is a plating.
As such you have to keep an eye on them. Especially in the neck area.
If they start flaking, pitch them!

I have and reload nickel in 9mm, 45 ACP, 38 SPCL, 357 Mag, 25-06, 280 Rem, 7mm Rem Mag, 45-70.
 
It has been a while, and I could not remember why I never reloaded nickel-plated brass. It was an article about the pros and cons of brass and nickel plates. I gave them away to those who reloaded them because I never had enough. I had a box of 20 different cartridges here and there, which was not worth my trouble.

ADDED: OK, I just remembered, the article recommended titanium or carbide reloading dies as nickel can damage standard reloading dies. I never cared to find out then and do not know if it is applicable today.
 
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Buzzsaw said:
I remember WAY back in the day when Speer sold loaded ammo, they came in nickel cases. When I reloaded them, the necks would split after 1 or two loadings. How about the Federal Terminal Accent nickel cases? Should I keep them or chunk-em?
Click to expand...
I have some in 300 win mag and 270 WSM .
I'm also finding the same issue when reloading in both calibers.
Some last 8 to 10 re loads , others , not so many .
I still use them though until they actually split .
 
I had some Winchester in 270 that started as Winchester Supreme ballistic tip factory ammo. I reserved it for hunting season and hunting season prep only I think it made I through 5 loadings. Loaded with Berger's it made some very pretty ammo. I threaten to buy more but I have enough 270 brass to last the rest of my life
 
I have to question, "why use nickel plated brass when plain brass is available"? For me, there is nothing wrong with regular brass and I will stick with that. It probably is a better option for most of us.

I can answer my own question. Nickel was originally developed for use in handgun cartridges. The thought was that the nickel would protect the brass from corrosion when stored for long periods of time in a leather holster gun belt. As I understand, the ammo loops in the leather can be corrosive to brass. At least so I have been told.

So most likely, if you are not storing your rounds in a leather cartridge belt, you have no use for nickel plated brass.
 
MagnumManiac said:
Long story short, those nickel cases ruined my die by scratching it to hell and back. Never again.
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Tony,

Your post is what prompted me to remember why I never loaded them.

FEENIX said:
It has been a while, and I could not remember why I never reloaded nickel-plated brass. It was an article about the pros and cons of brass and nickel plates. I gave them away to those who reloaded them because I never had enough. I had a box of 20 different cartridges here and there, which was not worth my trouble.

ADDED: OK, I just remembered, the article recommended titanium or carbide reloading dies as nickel can damage standard reloading dies. I never cared to find out then and do not know if it is applicable today.
Click to expand...
Ed
 
Buzzsaw said:
I remember WAY back in the day when Speer sold loaded ammo, they came in nickel cases. When I reloaded them, the necks would split after 1 or two loadings. How about the Federal Terminal Accent nickel cases? Should I keep them or chunk-em?
Click to expand...
Over the years, I have shot a lot of Federal ammo, both brass as well as nickel plated. Actually, for factory, most times, Federal is my favorite brand primarily with Nosler bullets. I have found when reloading that the nickel plated cases do not last beyond 3 loading's, while brass will go 5. Keep in mind I load for accuracy, not for speed, so my loads are mild in most of the time. Cartridges loaded are 270, 308, 30-06, 300WM and 338WM.
 

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