Ruger M77 Loose barrel

I

itsthemann

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Alright, I recently received a heavily customized Ruger M77 in a trade. Went out to shoot it, it grouped great, but the bolt was acting very weird (hard to close on a loaded round). Got home and noticed that the barrel appeared to be hand-tight on it. I could freely spin off the barrel by hand. So its time for a gunsmith, right? Or is this something I would be able to torque down myself? Thanks in advance, sorry if this is a silly question.
 
itsthemann said:
Alright, I recently received a heavily customized Ruger M77 in a trade. Went out to shoot it, it grouped great, but the bolt was acting very weird (hard to close on a loaded round). Got home and noticed that the barrel appeared to be hand-tight on it. I could freely spin off the barrel by hand. So its time for a gunsmith, right? Or is this something I would be able to torque down myself? Thanks in advance, sorry if this is a silly question.
Click to expand...
The loose barrel will require a barrel vise and action wrench. The extractor cut in the barrel could be "out of time" with the the claw extractor on the bolt, causing the claw extractor to not go to battery (hence the bolt acting strange). If the barrel is tightened it may correct this issue becuase it would rotate the extractor cut in the barrel to the proper location. Have your gunsmith tighten and torque the barrel....it might be all that it needs.
 
Ruger's don't have an extractor groove like Mausers, they have standard barrels...
All centerfire Ruger bolt action rifles, have the same thread spec, which is also the same as the Tikka T3.

So, do you need to take your car to a "mechanic", in order to torque your lug nuts? Of course you don't... Do you need a "mechanic" to know if your wheel studs threads are messed up? Of course you don't.

So no, you don't need a gunsmith, to inspect your rifle, and torque the barrel. Frankly if you don't catch the vapors by having to remember "lefty-loosey, Righty-tighty", then anyone can re-barrel a Ruger.
Uncle Larry had some stainless Proof Research barrels(RPR) on clearance a couple years ago, so I bought one for $130. A $30 barrel nut from Patriot Valley, and a couple minutes on the bench grinder to get rid of the handguard shoulder. A quick headspace check, and Viola.
 
Glad your barrel now fits properly.

Darkker is right the T3 barrel has the same 1"-16 TPI barrel shank as Ruger. It is longer though. I just found a new SS 25-06 which I installed on an old M77 tang safety. I rechambered it to 257 Weatherby after shortening the shank to properly fit. Those T3 barrels may be hammer forged but they are very smooth with no reamer marks.
 

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