Equipment for reloading

I cleaned out my pickup of some 223 brass and just wet tumbled them after resizing. Being a small batch I only ran it for one hour. Trimmed and chamfered

Just beautiful like always. The picture doesn't justify how nice they look.

Wow guys this is some great info. I will read them more in depth this evening. Good to hear the plus and minus of different equipment.

I say money is no object cause me and my brother in law are going to split it. He farms about 7k acres and since he is married to my sister and a gun nut, we get along very well.

I am going to a coworkers house this week to reload some .300 RUM and will get a lowdown on what he is using. He shoots some competition here in S Texas.

Many thanks.

I read the whole thread just now.
-- agree that you should start with a quality single stage press. Lots of choices.
-- you don't need an annealer to get started, but its important eventually. You can spend lots of money or less here. I am a torch guy, but I suspect the automated annealers are better.
-- everyone needs a decent beam scale, and a set of reference weights (to verify its correct) A beam scale is the foundation to making sure you NEVER blow up a gun. Understand? Electronics can betray you. A trusted verified beam scale should be around.
-- That being said, a decent power dispenser like a chargemaster sure can speed things up for volume loading, and for precision stuff, you tell it to charge .2 below your goal and trickle to perfect on your beam. (I use an old 12g shotgun hull as my trickler. tap tap tap I get 1-2 single sticks of long extruded powder per tap, been doing that for 40+ years, works)
-- personally, micrometer seating dies are the way to go. Why? If you keep records, you can use the same die and dial in different bullet seating down the road easily. You will eventually have pet loads for guns and you will want to reproduce those loads. All that is reasonably easy, but fussing around with a screwdriver and a wrench to adjust seating depth is a PITA.
-- pretty brass, clean brass etc etc etc. Clean brass serves NO purpose. But its still nice. Snobish fools that disdain reloading will shut up when they see your purdy brass. I tend to steel pin tumble after annealing, just to clean up things, recognizing that flame annealing will leave the inside of the necks with variable cooked on carbon. Between annealing, I do not clean with tumbling or vibrator etc. But after a thorough cleaning, your brass will be sticky. Read about graphite lube. That's my solution

Well that's my $0.02

Oh like all the other recs -- read at least one good manual(I like Hornady manual, hate their equipment) . If you cannot read, you should reconsider reloading. My apologies if you have problem reading, but there is SO much we don't talk about very often here that pretty much everyone here understands. Its all in a decent reloading manual. Read it, then read it again.