• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Muzzle break/ side baffle

SHEDKING

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2018
Messages
98
Location
Montana
I just got a new side baffle break with a crush washer it's from Christensen. It seems to take a lot to get it in-line with the bore. Is that pretty normal? Thanks for any input! I actually ordered 2 of them one is for my 300 PRC and the other is for a 300 rum. The 300 PRC barely took any resistance to put it on but the rum didn't line up as well so it took more force to get it in line with the bore!
 
I just got a new side baffle break with a crush washer it's from Christensen. It seems to take a lot to get it in-line with the bore. Is that pretty normal? Thanks for any input! I actually ordered 2 of them one is for my 300 PRC and the other is for a 300 rum. The 300 PRC barely took any resistance to put it on but the rum didn't line up as well so it took more force to get it in line with the bore!
It depends on the muzzle brake and the type and thickness of the crush washer(s)/shim kit that came with it as it relates to the muzzle thread.
 
Christensen Arms side baffle breaks! One was just took way more torque to get to position. Must just be the way it was threaded. See how they shoot tomorrow. I have another Christensen in the traverse and just seems to really tame that rifle.
IMG_5805.jpeg
 
Christensen Arms side baffle breaks! One was just took way more torque to get to position. Must just be the way it was threaded. See how they shoot tomorrow. I have another Christensen in the traverse and just seems to really tame that rifle.
View attachment 605496
Yep, make sure you follow the recommended torque value. I have various types of muzzle brakes and have been using them since 2003, but I have yet to use any with washers/shim kits. All non-self-indexing muzzle brakes are GS-timed/installed, requiring no washers/shims. I also use self-timing muzzle brakes from Muzzlebrakesandmore, PVA, Benchmark, Piercision, Blast Tamer (CSR), etc. My latest one is an EC tuner brake.

Good luck and have fun with them.
 
I just got a new side baffle break with a crush washer it's from Christensen. It seems to take a lot to get it in-line with the bore. Is that pretty normal? Thanks for any input! I actually ordered 2 of them one is for my 300 PRC and the other is for a 300 rum. The 300 PRC barely took any resistance to put it on but the rum didn't line up as well so it took more force to get it in line with the bore!
I'll usually sand the base of the brake or use shims to get my alignment with the amount of torque I want. If I absolutely have to use a crush washer I'll tighten and loosen it a few times to loosen it's force up a bit. It's not what you're "supposed" to do, but it works quite well.
 
I'll usually sand the base of the brake or use shims to get my alignment with the amount of torque I want. If I absolutely have to use a crush washer I'll tighten and loosen it a few times to loosen it's force up a bit. It's not what you're "supposed" to do, but it works quite well.
If I had to sand, it would be the back of the shim. But that's just me.
 
I had a brake on a 458SOCOM that needed a crush washer. The washer was misplaced, and I needed a replacement. Just for the heck of it, I put a rubber O ring on the treaded bbl and screwed the brake on. Everything lined up fine but I didn't think the O ring would work well or last long. I was wrong on both accounts. Oddly enough, I had no problems using the O ring.
 
I had a brake on a 458SOCOM that needed a crush washer. The washer was misplaced, and I needed a replacement. Just for the heck of it, I put a rubber O ring on the treaded bbl and screwed the brake on. Everything lined up fine but I didn't think the O ring would work well or last long. I was wrong on both accounts. Oddly enough, I had no problems using the O ring.
That's an interesting little piece of info. Never considered that.
 
Yep, make sure you follow the recommended torque value. I have various types of muzzle brakes and have been using them since 2003, but I have yet to use any with washers/shim kits. All non-self-indexing muzzle brakes are GS-timed/installed, requiring no washers/shims. I also use self-timing muzzle brakes from Muzzlebrakesandmore, PVA, Benchmark, Piercision, Blast Tamer (CSR), etc. My latest one is an EC tuner brake.

Good luck and have fun with them.
The only one I've ever installed was from Muzzle Brakes and More and I treaded the barrel so it was not difficult to line up. It tamed my 300 WM down to a 243 or less.
It works great but don't forget the ear protection.
 
The only one I've ever installed was from Muzzle Brakes and More and I treaded the barrel so it was not difficult to line up. It tamed my 300 WM down to a 243 or less.
It works great but don't forget the ear protection.
I have several of Nathan's MBs, but they are mostly self-indexing. MBM does an excellent job of reducing felt recoil and muzzle rise. I believe the MB below was the last non-indexing MB I purchased from him for my 7MM SAUM.

1727532077792.jpeg

I had my GS thread the barrel and taper the MB.
1727532382613.jpeg
 
Shim kits come with an assortment of different thicknesses. Just use the one that you can torque into position. I add blue loctite.
Yes, some kits have different thicknesses (https://www.wingtactical.com/firear...-tactical-muzzle-device-alignment-set-5-8x24/), and some have the same thickness (i.e., 5 of the same - https://christensenarms.com/product/crush-washer/), but the OPs came with a crush washer (https://christensenarms.com/product/titanium-side-baffle-brake/) with the right thickness for proper indexing.
 
Last edited:
Top