6.5 PRC donut in Lapua brass

Neck turning is your answer and K&M tools are the ones to help you out. I would also check your rifle for a carbon ring. This can and has been a contributing issue I have seen over the years. The only way to verify this is with a bore scope. Get a teslong they are fairly cheap and work very well. I was on the road you are on now many years ago. Neck turning has become a standard practice for me on many cartridges to avoid the dreaded doughnut
 
How far are you bumping the shoulder back now? If only .002, you MIGHT be able to bump them back a couple more and get a clean bolt close. Donuts come in all sizes so it may or may not work on every piece of brass.
I've been bumping .004" and I have to do a HARD cam over to get that so I don't think I can bump them any farther.
 
You might want to take a look at Short Action Custom modular dies. They have 6.5 PRC and they tend to go on sale around the major holidays. The bushing is made such that it includes both the neck and shoulder.

I haven't done enough reloads with the SAC dies yet to say for sure that the design eliminates the possibility of a doughnut but it sure seems like it should. I switched after reading some of the articles on the Precision Rifle Blog about reloading practices by some of the top PRS shooters. I figured that if it worked for them for the number of cycles they put their brass through, it was worth trying. The cost of good brass for precision rifle reloading seemed like justification for upgrading from my Redding bushing die set ups, or at least that's the excuse I told myself.
 
I figured that, but if I have to replace brass every 3-4 firings it could get real expensive
Again, brass life has nothing to do with donuts, donuts will shorten the case life of expensive or cheap brass. . If your getting donuts, your doing something wrong in your handloading method.

Donuts are often caused by using too long of a bullet where the "heel" or base of the bullet protrudes too far past the case neck shoulder junction. I'm still uncertain about how bushing dies affect donuts, but suspect they may contribute if they don't re-size the neck/shoulder junction area from the inside (I personally don't see a reason to use them for hunting ammo). Regular sizing dies that pull an expander to size the neck ID from the inside will help prevent any donut from building up but case lube should be used (be sure to clean out before seating).
First I would check your bullet length, if it protrudes too far into the case then move it closer to the lands or choose a different bullet (you wont get optimal performance of a long bullet seated too far into the case anyways).
If your bullet length isn't the issue, then I would switch to using a standard sizing die with an expander.

Here is a sketch of how I select a new bullet for any caliber. For boattail bullets I use the junction where the shank of the bullet meets the boattail taper as the "heel" and allow the tapered portion protrude into the case shoulder area, its a compromise but havent had any donuts after 5 times of reloading these cases.

1725298862383.png
 
Again, brass life has nothing to do with donuts, donuts will shorten the case life of expensive or cheap brass. . If your getting donuts, your doing something wrong in your handloading method.

Donuts are often caused by using too long of a bullet where the "heel" or base of the bullet protrudes too far past the case neck shoulder junction. I'm still uncertain about how bushing dies affect donuts, but suspect they may contribute if they don't re-size the neck/shoulder junction area from the inside (I personally don't see a reason to use them for hunting ammo). Regular sizing dies that pull an expander to size the neck ID from the inside will help prevent any donut from building up but case lube should be used (be sure to clean out before seating).
First I would check your bullet length, if it protrudes too far into the case then move it closer to the lands or choose a different bullet (you wont get optimal performance of a long bullet seated too far into the case anyways).
If your bullet length isn't the issue, then I would switch to using a standard sizing die with an expander.

Here is a sketch of how I select a new bullet for any caliber. For boattail bullets I use the junction where the shank of the bullet meets the boattail taper as the "heel" and allow the tapered portion protrude into the case shoulder area, its a compromise but havent had any donuts after 5 times of reloading these cases.

View attachment 599017
Thanks! I'll check my bullets using your diagram when I get home.
 
I have shot plenty of long bullets, some seated quite deep into the case. It has not caused donuts. The advantage of a shorter bullet is that it could be seated above the donut. Many reloaders intentionally use bullets that would not interfere with a donut if it should develop. Donuts are not a problem if they don't contact the bullet.
 
The cause of the donut is one of the most least documented subjects in reloading. Web searches on it I find are mostly limited to discussions in various shooting/hunting/reloading forums, the 'general consensus' has been that long bullets contribute to the problem but I suspect that in itself isnt the only reason and why many reloaders do get away with no donuts using longer bullets protruding into the case. It could also be that donuts take a while to form, perhaps some recipes wear the brass out in other ways before that happens with using deeper seated bullets.
theres so many variables here on this subject, in the end each of us has to be the judge and go from there.

Couple years ago I was learning still and asked a question in another forum on bullet length because I wanted to use a really long bullet that wasnt optimal for my magazine COAL, one of the experienced handloaders there shared images on the donut subject from an older handloading book called Top Grade Ammo. Still not conclusive but its the only published information on the subject of donuts that Ive found, so I bookmarked that page and try to use that guidance as an optimal bullet length, not just for donut prevention but it makes more sense to me to get optimal bullet velocity from case volume

The only other reference to the donut is the Wikipedia page on the 6.5 Creedmore mentions bullet length as a potential cause of the donut.
 
I don't claim to be a donut expert and I have never personally experienced the issue. From various discussions I've read online, I understood one of the potential causes was using a bushing die and repeatedly resizing the neck to just above the shoulder junction. Overtime, it could result in swaging the brass down to create a bulge inside the neck at the junction. If this were true, using a smaller than necessary bushing to get greater neck tension would likely increase the potential for problems.

I'm not saying bullet length couldn't be a factor in developing the problem. However, I have had no issues with repeated reloads with 215gr hybrids in both of my 300WMs. Before switching to SAC dies, I used 0.002 neck tension and Redding bushing competition neck dies for the 300WMs. So I can't say my lack of donut issues proves or disproves either theory of the cause.
 
I mentioned my fired brass would not re-enter the chamber without a stiff bolt close so I colored a piece with a sharpie. Attached is the picture of where it appears to be binding.......this is a Lapua case but also appeared with fired factory Hornady ammo. What do you think?
 

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If I'm seeing the pics correctly you need a full length size on that brass.
Has this example been full length resized?
This piece has not been resized although it has been 4x fired. I is my understanding that when fired the brass "shrinks" down slightly for extraction. If I try to re-chamber said piece of fired brass, the bolt closes very stiffly. I just tried a piece of factory Hornady ammo that had been fired in this chamber and the bolt close just fine. So I'm wondering if I have a die issue?
 
Brass shrinkage is a quantitative term.
Full length size that brass. Bump the shoulder back.002 and go shooting

That brass has a belly on it
What is happening is due to the brass alteration from multiple firings
 

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