Bore cleaner reacting with cases?

crkckr said:

I have the Outers Foul Out and depending on which chemical you put in, it will remove *all* copper or lead from your barrel and do a better job than any chemical on the market. It really is the #1 bore cleaner when it comes to copper or lead. Of course it doesn't remove grit or carbon but just about any good bore cleaner will do that (and should be done before using the Foul Out). The problem? It's hugely messy (I've never used it without spilling some somewhere!) and it can take some time. It is a very busy process. While the chemicals are discontinued by Outers, the formula to make more is easily found with a Google search, although the formula looks like it could be expensive. I haven't checked the prices.

I use Wipe Out these days and it seems to do a pretty good job, too. I have a whole slew of other chemicals as well, some that do ok and some not. However, the way I test them is to put a drop on piece of scrap brass. If it discolores the brass (or worse!), it will probably clean the barrel pretty well. One thing, the only cleaner I allow to stay in the barrel is Wipe Out. Everything else I clean out after 20 minutes or so max. As an aside, I have never once tried a "lead removing" chemical that has even the least bit of effect on a piece of pure lead! Lead must be removed with the Outers rig or scrubbed out, period!

I will also warn against using Brake Clean in conjunction with *any* solvent that contains even a hint of ammonia! If left in the barrel very long it can cause severe pitting in your carbon steel barrel. Ask me how I know this! Ok, don't bother, I totally destroyed a really nice TC Contender .223 barrel using that combonation, Brake Clean and Hoppes #9, which does contain amonia. Irked me to no end!

Getting a bit of bore solvent on your brass is not a disaster, although it should never be left in the bore or chamber! It should be deactivated and removed from the brass with alcohol or Brake Clean but be sure to get all of the liquids out completely and dry well. As to gun oil, just about any oil will do although I will not use any oil containing teflon (Rem Oil, Break Free, etc.) in the barrel, as it can cause accuracy issues. Several of the custom barrel makers used to warn of that but as they no longer do so, it may have turned out to be a rumor. I don't know for sure but I use synthetic (Mobil 1, Casteol or Rotella because that's what I happen to have!) for almost everything but especially in the barrel. I don't want to be a guinea pig!

These things I have learned over my 50+ years of shooting and testing various methods of cleaning. I now use the Bore Tech liquid cleaner and wet tumble my brass with steel pins, which makes the brass come out looking like new, inside and out. I decap before cleaning and even the primer pockets come out perfectly clean. I'm not sure when I got so anal about clean primer pockets as I have literally loaded hundreds of thousands of rounds without doing so and never had any problems (I owned a commercial reloading operation a life time ago). Today, it's an issue, just don't ask me why! I guess because I can? Beats me!
Cheers,
crkckr

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LoneTraveler said:

Brake cleaners have some type of caustic component in it to cut the varnish on brake parts. If you have anything aluminum come in contact with brake cleaner can erode it. It will also affect stock finish also.

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