Need to be careful with brake cleaner. Add heat to it and you've got phosgene gas all of a sudden.
"phosgene is still regarded as a viable chemical warfare agent"
Bore cleaner reacting with cases?
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"phosgene is still regarded as a viable chemical warfare agent"
Tommy T
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I use a wet tumbler with SS pins and bore tect brass cleaner that will make it look new again
charles bonner
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I still have an Outers but am out of the chemicals. Had a 25 06 that got to where it lost accuracy. Used the Outers and it cured the problem. Sold that rifle years ago and last I heard it was still a shooter
crkckr
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lyotehunter
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Run some 90% alcohol to make sure it's flushed
crkckr
Well-Known Member
I have the Outers Foul Out and depending on which chemical you put in, it will remove *all* copper or lead from your barrel and do a better job than any chemical on the market. It really is the #1 bore cleaner when it comes to copper or lead. Of course it doesn't remove grit or carbon but just about any good bore cleaner will do that (and should be done before using the Foul Out). The problem? It's hugely messy (I've never used it without spilling some somewhere!) and it can take some time. It is a very busy process. While the chemicals are discontinued by Outers, the formula to make more is easily found with a Google search, although the formula looks like it could be expensive. I haven't checked the prices.
I use Wipe Out these days and it seems to do a pretty good job, too. I have a whole slew of other chemicals as well, some that do ok and some not. However, the way I test them is to put a drop on piece of scrap brass. If it discolores the brass (or worse!), it will probably clean the barrel pretty well. One thing, the only cleaner I allow to stay in the barrel is Wipe Out. Everything else I clean out after 20 minutes or so max. As an aside, I have never once tried a "lead removing" chemical that has even the least bit of effect on a piece of pure lead! Lead must be removed with the Outers rig or scrubbed out, period!
I will also warn against using Brake Clean in conjunction with *any* solvent that contains even a hint of ammonia! If left in the barrel very long it can cause severe pitting in your carbon steel barrel. Ask me how I know this! Ok, don't bother, I totally destroyed a really nice TC Contender .223 barrel using that combonation, Brake Clean and Hoppes #9, which does contain amonia. Irked me to no end!
Getting a bit of bore solvent on your brass is not a disaster, although it should never be left in the bore or chamber! It should be deactivated and removed from the brass with alcohol or Brake Clean but be sure to get all of the liquids out completely and dry well. As to gun oil, just about any oil will do although I will not use any oil containing teflon (Rem Oil, Break Free, etc.) in the barrel, as it can cause accuracy issues. Several of the custom barrel makers used to warn of that but as they no longer do so, it may have turned out to be a rumor. I don't know for sure but I use synthetic (Mobil 1, Casteol or Rotella because that's what I happen to have!) for almost everything but especially in the barrel. I don't want to be a guinea pig!
These things I have learned over my 50+ years of shooting and testing various methods of cleaning. I now use the Bore Tech liquid cleaner and wet tumble my brass with steel pins, which makes the brass come out looking like new, inside and out. I decap before cleaning and even the primer pockets come out perfectly clean. I'm not sure when I got so anal about clean primer pockets as I have literally loaded hundreds of thousands of rounds without doing so and never had any problems (I owned a commercial reloading operation a life time ago). Today, it's an issue, just don't ask me why! I guess because I can? Beats me!
Cheers,
crkckr
I use Wipe Out these days and it seems to do a pretty good job, too. I have a whole slew of other chemicals as well, some that do ok and some not. However, the way I test them is to put a drop on piece of scrap brass. If it discolores the brass (or worse!), it will probably clean the barrel pretty well. One thing, the only cleaner I allow to stay in the barrel is Wipe Out. Everything else I clean out after 20 minutes or so max. As an aside, I have never once tried a "lead removing" chemical that has even the least bit of effect on a piece of pure lead! Lead must be removed with the Outers rig or scrubbed out, period!
I will also warn against using Brake Clean in conjunction with *any* solvent that contains even a hint of ammonia! If left in the barrel very long it can cause severe pitting in your carbon steel barrel. Ask me how I know this! Ok, don't bother, I totally destroyed a really nice TC Contender .223 barrel using that combonation, Brake Clean and Hoppes #9, which does contain amonia. Irked me to no end!
Getting a bit of bore solvent on your brass is not a disaster, although it should never be left in the bore or chamber! It should be deactivated and removed from the brass with alcohol or Brake Clean but be sure to get all of the liquids out completely and dry well. As to gun oil, just about any oil will do although I will not use any oil containing teflon (Rem Oil, Break Free, etc.) in the barrel, as it can cause accuracy issues. Several of the custom barrel makers used to warn of that but as they no longer do so, it may have turned out to be a rumor. I don't know for sure but I use synthetic (Mobil 1, Casteol or Rotella because that's what I happen to have!) for almost everything but especially in the barrel. I don't want to be a guinea pig!
These things I have learned over my 50+ years of shooting and testing various methods of cleaning. I now use the Bore Tech liquid cleaner and wet tumble my brass with steel pins, which makes the brass come out looking like new, inside and out. I decap before cleaning and even the primer pockets come out perfectly clean. I'm not sure when I got so anal about clean primer pockets as I have literally loaded hundreds of thousands of rounds without doing so and never had any problems (I owned a commercial reloading operation a life time ago). Today, it's an issue, just don't ask me why! I guess because I can? Beats me!
Cheers,
crkckr
The FoulOut is also great for removing lead from pistol barrels.
I believe the chemicals are available at Midway.
stiff neck
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If you are running wet patches of brake cleaner in a rifle chamber or barrel that is hotter than 315 degrees F then you should be concerned with a lot more than just phosgene gas.
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
I use BoreTechs copper remover and their carbon remover, in addition to their Eliminator. Eliminator is good for general bore cleaning but if you have a buildup of copper or carbon the other products will work faster.
Taj
Well-Known Member
Brother you are right but I think that only applies to the chlorinated stuff. I only use the non-chlorinated stuff around the shop because I'm always welding on something and I already have enough "dain bramage" and chemicals sitting in my liver. I told my wife that she needed to be in a different zip code when I'm cremated. I think it's always a good idea to run a patch with some type of preservative oil on it after any type of cleaning solvent is used. I do use Bore Tech and really like it but don't leave any residue of it in my bore. Before going to the range or hunting I always run a patch or 2 of carb cleaner or denatured alcohol through the bore. If you leave any type of lube in the bore your first- clean/ cold bore shot may be affected. I learned/ started doing this when I went through the FBI ( fan belt inspectors) sniper school back in the early 80s.
PNWdude67
Well-Known Member
Just don't clean at all at the range. Why?? Yeah, I know the 1000 yard BR guys do some extreme stuff for very negligible of any benefit. For a field match gun or hunter NO cleaning necessary just shoot. Clean when you get home if you want and don't strip copper. I like the bore tech carbon remover. I ensure the chamber and throat are clean and I de carbon the crown whenever I remove the suppressor. I run a few wet patches with carbon only remover followed by dry patches every 300 rounds or so. I have tried more extensive cleaning regiments and see zero benefit or possibly more harm than good to accuracy and consistent velocity. Since starting shooting field matches in 2017 we have worked with about 40 barrels in 4 calibers and find less is more with the cleaning of the bore.
Airedale56
Well-Known Member
Re: Outers Foul-Out. I, too, am out of the liquids that came with it.
It did a good job of removing copper from my Rem 700 PSS .308.
I don't know if the liquids are still available since all the changes of ownership in the industry.
Wipe-Out: it did a good job, too. I quit using it after discovering that it leaches into the receiver/barrel threads during use. The carrier for the chemicals is water and it caused rust on both the receiver and barrel threads of two Remington 700s. This was discovered when pulling the barrels for re-barreling.
Maybe a post Wipe-Out application of WD-40 (Water Displacement) to the barrel/receiver junction from inside the receiver would have prevented the rust but I don't recall it being recommended as part of the protocol for use.
It did a good job of removing copper from my Rem 700 PSS .308.
I don't know if the liquids are still available since all the changes of ownership in the industry.
Wipe-Out: it did a good job, too. I quit using it after discovering that it leaches into the receiver/barrel threads during use. The carrier for the chemicals is water and it caused rust on both the receiver and barrel threads of two Remington 700s. This was discovered when pulling the barrels for re-barreling.
Maybe a post Wipe-Out application of WD-40 (Water Displacement) to the barrel/receiver junction from inside the receiver would have prevented the rust but I don't recall it being recommended as part of the protocol for use.
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A friend introduced me to Foul Out. I have sufficient solvent but the device has stopped working. Must have shorted it out somehow. Must find a new electronic head or find a way to repair it. Did like the effectiveness and surely would return to using it.
