Chambering a rifle at home

shortgrass said:
The Bald Eagle "pusher" scares me. I guess I like having my hands as they were issued. I operate at speeds and feeds that scares the hobby guys. I made my floating holder. Works as intended. Of course, lots of excellent chambers have been cut using a "pusher".
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I came across a thread, maybe on BR last night while trying to find anything about the bald eagle where you had talked about your holder, as well as many others.
I couldn't open the pictures so all I could see are the tiny pictures, but what keeps them from rotating while allowing the end to move freely?
 
OP,
Don't let anyone talk down the Chinese carbide tooling. I bought a set on eBay just to play with some bar stock and didn't want to ruin my kennemetal stuff and at 1200rpm, those cheap little things left an amazing finish. Then tried some cheap threading carbide inserts and same thing. Get ready for very STRONG opinions when asking for advice though :)
 
I hand reamed a 30-284 in college with a pilot chambered 308 barrel that I installed in an already butchered VZ24. That was a work out. Rifle turned out great! Still got it and shoot it every now and then.
 
redneckdan said:
I hand reamed a 30-284 in college with a pilot chambered 308 barrel that I installed in an already butchered VZ24. That was a work out. Rifle turned out great! Still got it and shoot it every now and then.
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I can feel the guys cringe :) Funny how guns can shoot whether you do the musts or not. My buddy that retired at 73 from building and shooting long range loved to pose the question to me, "Mike, if all this truing stuff and dialing in to the gagillionth has to be done to make an accurate rifle, then why do you find Remington and savage box rifles shooting 1/2" or better?" He asked me that a million times!?
 
I only use HSS for now, I bought a set of carbide from Ebay when I first got my lathe, broke every one then let Mr. Pete on YouTube teach me to grind and use HSS. I dont quite have a mirror finish on the shank I turned down but it would pass for something from a real machinist if I didnt know any better.
 
birdiemc said:
I only use HSS for now, I bought a set of carbide from Ebay when I first got my lathe, broke every one then let Mr. Pete on YouTube teach me to grind and use HSS. I dont quite have a mirror finish on the shank I turned down but it would pass for something from a real machinist if I didnt know any better.
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Great example of different techniques used. Some are very adamant about hss or carbide. Both work just depends on what's important.
if you do start building rifles, get on practicalmachinist and learn
 
I got nothing against carbide, but I can regrind hss with what I already got, and it let's me take things nice and slow. I dont even like cutting threads at 250rpm so carbide speeds scare the crap outta me....like shortgrass said earlier
 
I started out grinding hss then learned about the toxicity to your lungs and decided to try carbide. I thread at 90rpm with carbide and it works fine for me. Would be nice to thread away at 600+ to get that fine finish
 
I thread away from the shoulder with carbide @ 360RPM. leaves a great finish on the threads. I learned to thread normal and still do all the time. I mainly use the REV threading away from the shoulder for cutting muzzle brake threads where I want to be really close to the shoulder.
 
Danny1788 said:
I thread away from the shoulder with carbide @ 360RPM. leaves a great finish on the threads. I learned to thread normal and still do all the time. I mainly use the REV threading away from the shoulder for cutting muzzle brake threads where I want to be really close to the shoulder.
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you just reminded me to buy a left threading tool holder. been putting it off waaaay too long. Saw Joe Pi do that technique and love it
 
Mram10us said:
you just reminded me to buy a left threading tool holder. been putting it off waaaay too long. Saw Joe Pi do that technique and love it
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I don't thread the same way. I use an internal threading tool on the back side of the tenon turning in reverse. That way I can see the cut. The upside down tool turning in reverse lifts the carriage which I didn't think was a good idea. Threading on the backside in reverse puts all the pressure down just like normal threading.
 
Danny1788 said:
I don't thread the same way. I use an internal threading tool on the back side of the tenon turning in reverse. That way I can see the cut. The upside down tool turning in reverse lifts the carriage which I didn't think was a good idea. Threading on the backside in reverse puts all the pressure down just like normal threading.
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Thanks for the tip! I'll try that because I haven't seen it that way
 
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