What base for 300 RUM

Slickrick0999

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Ok, I am way over complicating this but I'm interested in hearing everyone's opinion.
I need to purchase a pic base for my new remington long range in 300 RUM. So, i'm stuck on going with steel or aluminum. No need to save any weight on this one as it will be a steel shooter only. Second point of contention is how much moa? I'm thinking 30 moa is good for compromise.
Third ridiculous point is a recoil lug, yay or nay?
The rifle will be used to shoot steel at 1000 to 1740 yards (if I can do it). Scope will most likely be between the vortex pst gen2 5x25, or one of the Athlon scopes (Ares ETR 4x30 or Cronos BTR 4x29).
My idea with the 30 moa is it will still let me check at 100 yards.
Thanks in advance for all the help (my OCD is driving me nuts)
 
will my 300 win mag with a 20 and then adjusted with burris signature rings, allows my 5-22 night force to zero at 100 and crank out to 2000+. my suggestion is that with a 20 and the burris tactical/signature rings you can tune your vertical with 100 very close to the bottom of adjustment and have plenty left for long range. how much vertical do those scopes have ??
 
will my 300 win mag with a 20 and then adjusted with burris signature rings, allows my 5-22 night force to zero at 100 and crank out to 2000+. my suggestion is that with a 20 and the burris tactical/signature rings you can tune your vertical with 100 very close to the bottom of adjustment and have plenty left for long range. how much vertical do those scopes have ??
The vortex is 22 mil and the Athlon scopes advertising 32 mil.
 
With the recoil and velocity potential of the 300 rum, I would suggest a good set of steel rings and bases. If you get a good 30 mm scope, it will have plenty of elevation in the turret (Normally more than 90 to 100 MOA ) and a 20 moa base will allow you to zero at 100 yards and still have enough elevation for 1700 yards.

If you go with 30 MOA bases, you will not be able to zero at 100 yards. The only time I recommend 25 or 30 MOA bases is for dedicated 600 to 1000 yard matches with no need for a 100 or 200 yard zero to keep the reticle centered for accuracy in the adjustments.

I am assuming that the recoil lug you are talking about is on the base. and the answer is yes, it is an assurance that the base will not move and overload the base screws, I would also bed the base to the action for precision fit and insurance that the base does not move at all. For the longest shots any movement at all is poison.

Just my recommendation.

J E CUSTOM
 
One thing my gunsmith always does on big rifles is drill out the mounting screws on the bases. They come with 6-48, he changes to the next larger size 8. Think they are 48 to also but may be 32. He says he feels it is a stronger foundation. Been known to bed based too.
 
I have never been able to keep aluminum bases tight on a heavy recoiler. It is even worse when the rifle is light and although I can not explain the mechanics it is even worse with a brake. I have ideas on why but will keep them to myself. I would look at Murphy Precision.
 
With the recoil and velocity potential of the 300 rum, I would suggest a good set of steel rings and bases. If you get a good 30 mm scope, it will have plenty of elevation in the turret (Normally more than 90 to 100 MOA ) and a 20 moa base will allow you to zero at 100 yards and still have enough elevation for 1700 yards.

If you go with 30 MOA bases, you will not be able to zero at 100 yards. The only time I recommend 25 or 30 MOA bases is for dedicated 600 to 1000 yard matches with no need for a 100 or 200 yard zero to keep the reticle centered for accuracy in the adjustments.

I am assuming that the recoil lug you are talking about is on the base. and the answer is yes, it is an assurance that the base will not move and overload the base screws, I would also bed the base to the action for precision fit and insurance that the base does not move at all. For the longest shots any movement at all is poison.

Just my recommendation.

J E CUSTOM
So is the 30moa not being able to be zero'd at 100 yards due to the caliber 300 RUM?
Also, do you have a particular manufacturer you recommend?
Thanks,
Rick
 
So is the 30moa not being able to be zero'd at 100 yards due to the caliber 300 RUM?
Also, do you have a particular manufacturer you recommend?
Thanks,
Rick


The 300 rum is by nature very flat shooting and doesn't need as much MOA base as some less powerful cartridges. I also recommend that you buy matching brands of bases and rings for best fit.

Here is one that I recommend.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...-1-piece-maximized-picatinny-style-scope-base

That has the features you need.

J E CUSTOM
 
I had trouble with my nightforce scope moving with cheap leupold rings early on. Did some research and went with a near alpha mount on a near 25moa base. Can dial past 2000 and it ain't moving. They're a little heavy but rock solid and look really nice to boot.
 
I had trouble with my nightforce scope moving with cheap leupold rings early on. Did some research and went with a near alpha mount on a near 25moa base. Can dial past 2000 and it ain't moving. They're a little heavy but rock solid and look really nice to boot.


The Near rings and bases are no doubt some of the best made and designed available. I use them on my Mark 5 builds because of there precision and fit. They have a built in lug that snaps in and will hold the base in place while attaching it fits so good.

With top quality scopes that are traditionally heavy, it makes sense to use good well made bases and rings that will keep the scope from moving. No place to cut corners.

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM
 
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