Side focus (parallax) help needed - Leupold 4.5-14

[Mike027]

Jeff I had actually considered the Nightforce and may go that route. I had also considered the Huskemaw or Greybull. Im about a year behind on getting this rifle ready to go but Im planning on going to Idaho in late October so I need to get it done soon.

One problem that I have here in mid-Michigan is finding a shooting range that can provide opportunities for long range practice.

I have access to some property in the U.P. that allows for shots at about 600 yards but I can only get up there maybe 2 or 3 times a year. : (

 

[Broz]

I had the same problem for the short time I lived in the O-Zarks. But I kept hunting till I found a hunting lease with some guys that would allow me to shoot to 1200 yards from one pasture hill to another. But it did take a while to check and paint my steel.


I will suggest you look at your maximum range you intend to engage a target before buying a scope. I use the MOA system and dial for every shot. BDC turrets can be faster but are limited. By that I mean you either need a couple of them for different temperatures and altitde, or, limit shooting distances to the affective range of a basic BDC turret. If a hunter is going to be at the same altitude all the time that is great. But it sounds like you are not. If you have an I phone or Droid I would get the " Shooter" app. It works well, has all the variable adjustments I could ever want. It keeps me spot on at any distance, temp or altitude.

Jeff

 

[Mike027]

Jeff do you have any experience with the new Nightforce 1000 yard velocity reticle? Is it similar to the Leupold B&C reticle? Mike

 

[Broz]

Jeff do you have any experience with the new Nightforce 1000 yard velocity reticle? Is it similar to the Leupold B&C reticle? Mike

Sorry I do not. But as with any BDC reticle or BDC turret they can be very affective with in their limits. I have used BDC reticles in the past and still use BDC turrets on some of my my varmint rifles. I just limit them to 500 yards or so for this reason. A bullets ballistic arc changes with altitude, temp and so on. I want a spot on dial up from a proven computer program that I have documented the drops on for the longer shots.

Jeff

 

[Mike027]

Hi Jeff I have a coupe of questions on the Nightforce. For my purposes should I consider the NP-R1 reticle? Is the zero stop feature something that I really need for hunting? For mounting on the Sendero should I just get the standard one piece base and ultralite rings?

The wife has given me approval to go ahead with purchasing new. : ) Mike

 

[Broz]

Hi Jeff I have a coupe of questions on the Nightforce. For my purposes should I consider the NP-R1 reticle? Is the zero stop feature something that I really need for hunting? For mounting on the Sendero should I just get the standard one piece base and ultralite rings?

The wife has given me approval to go ahead with purchasing new. : ) Mike

The NPR1 is my favorite reticle my 2nd choice would be the NPR2. These with the .25 moa turrets and second focal plane scopes are what I shoot to 2000 yards and sometimes beyond.

Although the zero stop is not a "must have" it will make your life easier and remove the posibility of errors when returning to zero after a shot. They are pretty darn nice, all mine are zero stops now. I would get the nightforce rail in 20 moa and the UL rings. That will get you 70 or so MOA up while keeping the eye piece down to where you will get an easy cheekweld. 70 Moa with my 338 LM is right at 2000 yards at 4000 ft of altitude.

Jeff

 

[Dalebow]

I guess it might matter way out there but I have several Zeiss and Swar scopes with no side adjustment and have taken game 500-600 yards without this adjustment..............for me just something else to cause me to lose a precious shot because Iam tinkering with it, like I said for long range when you are not rushed sure it is fine, but for hunting situation you dont need to fool with it. Just my 2 cents

 

[Broz]

I guess it might matter way out there but I have several Zeiss and Swar scopes with no side adjustment and have taken game 500-600 yards without this adjustment..............for me just something else to cause me to lose a precious shot because Iam tinkering with it, like I said for long range when you are not rushed sure it is fine, but for hunting situation you dont need to fool with it. Just my 2 cents

Not a deal buster at 500 to 600 you are correct, but when you go long range it adds up. Out west many of our hunting situations are well past 600 and usually you do have time, and should have. If you don't have the time a 800 yards shot or beyond should be passed in my opinion. Moving game is not a LR option to me. This is something that is definatly dependant on where you live and how you hunt. But for sure it should be part of any long range shot on game. I believe in taking advantage of every option to insure good shot placement.

Jeff

 

[Dalebow]

Broz
makes sense to me.
I guess I dont understand a lot of this, I hunt CO, NM and usually can get withing 200-400 yards of my animals...........I think people are shooting long range because they "can", they dont even try to get closer..........I dont have any issues with it, just trying to understand it.

 

[Broz]

Broz
makes sense to me.
I guess I dont understand a lot of this, I hunt CO, NM and usually can get withing 200-400 yards of my animals...........I think people are shooting long range because they "can", they dont even try to get closer..........I dont have any issues with it, just trying to understand it.

There is some truth to what you say, but not always. There are many cases where across the canyon or up a steep ridge the elk are in smal timbers. You can not come from back over the top due to access or distance. If you try to come from below you will be busted and they will be gone when you get there. So the long poke is best. I grew up hunting the midwestern deer, hunting elk here is way way different than the midwest WT deer.

Jeff

 

[Mike027]

This gun will be primarily for hunting in Idaho. We typically hike into the hunting area in the dark to get where where we need to be for first light. Where we hunt there is some timber but also some very wide open spaces (talus??) that could spook game if we try to cross in a run and gun situation so that is why we try to be set up at first light in an area we have already scouted. We find that we have perhaps an hour and a half at best in the morning before the deer head for cover. After that we will do some short walks and a LOT of glassing of the small openings on the slopes to try and catch movment as they get up to move around in the day. I learn more each year. Hopefully some day I will find the secret to getting in close. Thanks all. Mike

 

[Dalebow]

Broz
that sounds reasonable, I know that I had no Idea how hard an Elk would be to hunt until I started hunting them a few years ago, so far I am 3 elk for 4 hunts but so many times it was the only opportunity and it was the last day or the only chance I got.