Ok , say I'm lazy, but I have been using the search function for days now, and am still no closer to a solution than I was when I started, that being a simple fix I can perform for primary extractor woes on a Savage 110. I've seen guys say they drilled and tapped the rear baffle, installing and fitting brass screws. Tried that, but the High Speed Steel drill I got doesn't even shine the baffle. Pretty sure if I got a hole in it, the HSS tap would break off. Tried every kind of epoxy I can buy, including Devcon 10110 with a shim. Worked for awhile, but I'm finally aggravated enough by them falling off to consider a more permanent solution. Bought a new baffle and handle; it's thinner than the old one. How about soldering a shim in place with 95/5 solder ? Fairly low heat, compared to silver solder. Or maybe, I could send my dissasembled bolt to some one here willing to do this service for me ? Advice appreciated.
Savage primary extractor fixes ? Please advise
- Thread starter Gregg C
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- primary extractor savage
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I know your pain. I had the same problem, I was getting hard extraction on mild loads on a Model 11 LH. I looked at all of the methods you have tried and I decided they were not permanent. After studying the bolt awhile I decided to shorten it by .046 on the back. I found and old mill in a shop nearby and ask if I could use it for a few minutes. Easy fix I did have to relive the bolt slot in the receiver to clearance the bolt handle.
If someone would only make the recoil baffle in varying thicknesses of say .020 they would have a gold mine. I have 10-12 Savages and they all could benefit from improved primary extraction.
If someone would only make the recoil baffle in varying thicknesses of say .020 they would have a gold mine. I have 10-12 Savages and they all could benefit from improved primary extraction.
Yeah kinda frustrated. Did you need to do anything to the firing pin or cocking sleeve ? Relieving the reciever doesnt bother me, if I gotta, I gotta. I thought I read somewhere of peripheral machineing after bolt shortening. I only need .020 shaved off.
I did not have to change the firing pin. You might call Savage. The recoil baffles are numbered so they might have a thicker one. Get a part# and a FFL will have to order it for you. They will not ship it to you.
You would have to grind it and then silver solder it. The ones I have are cast and very hard.
Here is a picture of how I did mine.
the ears are not critical. I did just step back and cut them off the same amount but you could cut them with a file and it would not matter. Also if you only go .020 you probably won't have to alter the bolt cutout in the action. Good Luck.
nvbowhunter
Member
I too had this issue and addressed it by shortening the bolt body using a multi axial, variable speed portable mill (file)
. It worked well.
. It worked well.
