• You must be a Supporting Member to create a listing in the Long Range Hunting Marketplace. To read all the rules, click here.

    We offer multiple options to become a Supporting Member here.

SOLD/EXPIRED Remington 700 bolt issue

matt_3479

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Messages
1,586
Location
Southern Ontario
A few months back I had the opportunity to purchase a semi custom Remington 700 in 20 tac. I also got the opportunity to test fire it first before making my decision. The action is a Remington 700 short action, the barrel is a Krieger spun and chambered by an incredible gunsmith in our area. The bolt was fluted and dicked with by the owner who is trying to get into the precision building game. The fluting looks great, but here's my issue.

It looks as if the firearm previously was a 243. Win and he make-shift something up to allow a 223/20 tac to feed, and extract. It .. Worked okay, but was ugly as hell and not very strong. Second problem is the firing pin protrudes much further then suppose too and it's causing massive crators on live primers no powder, and blowing a whole clean through on min-max load charge.

The reason I purchased it was because I fired 10 rounds through it with 1 group producing .502 outside to outside and the second being .398 outside to outside and the price with bullets, brass, primers, dies was too cheap to say no. My question is, what would you guys do to fix this issue. Buy a whole knew bolt assembly and body and get it head spaced or what?
 
... chambered by an incredible gunsmith in our area. ... what would you guys do to fix this issue. Buy a whole new bolt assembly and body and get it head spaced or what?

The solution, IMO, is self evident in your post. Careful, you'll trip over it.
Take it to that gunsmith and get his advice; then do it.
Gunsmiths are worthy of the same respect as doctors, lawyers, preachers. If you aren't going to follow their advice then it's time to find a new one.
 
I agree that it sounds fixable. The long firing pin could very well have lead to the extractor problem. Both could likely be addressed by a competent gunsmith at a relatively low cost
 
Sounds like you need the bolt face bushed and an extractor installed then the firing pin hole needs bushed and the firing pin refitted.
 
Sounds like you need the bolt face bushed and an extractor installed then the firing pin hole needs bushed and the firing pin refitted.

Curious if this work on the existing bolt would be cost competitive with the alternative option of purchasing a different bolt? I guess he'd lose the fluted bolt, if that's important to him.
 
Curious if this work on the existing bolt would be cost competitive with the alternative option of purchasing a different bolt? I guess he'd lose the fluted bolt, if that's important to him.

Purchasing a new bolt I have been told it can be fairly costly with all the work that goes along with it to make it fit properly. Now I'm not sure. That's why I'm asking? If anyone knows what the best thing to do here would be. Buy a new bolt and get it to the smith, or just bring the old one over.
 
As of right now the options for a new bolt would be a PTG which just isn't an option IMO, you have a bolt that fits the action and is headspace, saw your pics on another site I'd say all your problems can be solved by opening up the bolt face and installing a bushing and Sako extractor, the blowing primers has probably cratered up the hole which only makes the issue worse so bushing the firing pin hole and turning the pin will likely fix the issue. It's not a cheap repair but you'll be upgrading it's function while fixing it.
 
Look's like the answer is a knowledgeable gunsmith reworking your bolt.

Getting rid of the Rem extractor would be a good move regardless. My brother says he replaces approximately 20 broken Rem extractors per year in his gun shop. Replaced 3 of them last week alone. In comparison, he says he replaces a Win M70 extractor or a Ruger extractor about once every 5 years.
 
Top