Let's build a sub moa rifle for deer size game that will help others save miney

[MudRunner2005]

I had a Remington LR for 3 month and the barrel was junk ! Threw lead all over

At least you were only out $700...And not $2,000+... Just saying.

$35 Tubbs bullet kit would have solved a lot of frustration for you... They aren't a miracle cure, but have been proven to help significantly with removing tooling marks in the bore that cause lead buildup, if you use them properly (per instructions).

You searched for: tubbs final finish - MidwayUSA

 

[FEENIX]

Buds has the Savage 116 for $716
McGowen Custom 26" varmint contour barrel is: $325

The 116 Savage stock is the accustock with aluminum bedding. So it is pretty good.
Savage Accutrigger is hard to beat in a factory action.

This leaves about $450 for some sort of scope.

The thing is this setup gets you a custom aftermarket button rifled barrel. The barrel will probably contribute more to the accuracy of the rifle than anything else you could do for it.

That there will be a shooter!

Savage build is geared towards DIYers and they are hard to beat ... not mention they shoot as heck.

Here's my last project build >>> http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f22/my-budget-270-ai-97745/

Not exactly what the OP wanted might consider what Kasey has >>> http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f25/savage-7-300-win-forsale-162742/

... just a little bit more $$$ and you have yourself a kickazz LR rig. Heck, he might even have a packaged deal for you for exactly what you are budgeted.

Good luck!

Ed

 

[J E Custom]

I look for a good donor rifle (normally a 700 Remington because of the available parts) with the same bolt face and the same class of cartridge (To minimize action work)

I can normally find one with a varmint stock that will take a heavy barrel without to much material loss if the channel needs opening up for $500.00 to $600.00. With luck, sometimes I have found a varmint 700 with a laminate stock for less than $400.00.

With any action truing/Blue printing is a must ($100.00 to $200.00).

Then I spend $350.00 on a premium barrel and I am off and running.

So with the cost of all the components I will have somewhere between $850.00 and $950.00
for all good parts. add the cost of Blue printing and chambering and you are there.

The only other expense you may have to consider is a good trigger (Sometimes they actually
have a decent trigger and you may not need one).

With all good parts and smithing you should be able to build a real shooter for less than $1500.00

I have bought nice rifles with beautiful sporter stocks and sold the stock to recover some of the money spent on the rifle. (I prefer the heavy barrels and need a heavy stock).

J E CUSTOM

 

[ewoelk]

This thread is exactly what I was looking for. I'm torn between a Tikka T3, Weatherby Vanguard S2, Savage 16 or LRH or Remington 700.

From what I've read on here most guys just recommend going with some sort of Savage. But like J E Custom said, it might be best to go for a 700.

I really like to tinker with my toys. This will be my first long range rifle and I would like to keep it under $1,500.

 

[FEENIX]

I think this meets your requirement per subject title ...

$ 370 - Savage 11 FCNS .300 WSM (GunBroker.com Message Forums - Got my 1st shortmag ever ...)
$ 230 - Benchmark tactical MB and install (not in OP's requirement)
$1000 - SWFA 5-20x50 HD FFP
$ 50 - Burris signature zee rings
$ 70 - 20 MOA EGW HD picatinny rail

The prize >>> http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f19/300-wsms-first-kill-161761/

 

[ohiohunter]

This thread is exactly what I was looking for. I'm torn between a Tikka T3, Weatherby Vanguard S2, Savage 16 or LRH or Remington 700.

From what I've read on here most guys just recommend going with some sort of Savage. But like J E Custom said, it might be best to go for a 700.

I really like to tinker with my toys. This will be my first long range rifle and I would like to keep it under $1,500.

Given your budget the savage is quite attractive, but finding a stock is not the easiest thing to do and the mag well will limit your OAL. My first build was a savage, had I known better it would have been a rem. BUT if you can get all your components squared away the tikka action is slicker than any of the above, the 75* bolt throw is nice too.

 

[ewoelk]

Given your budget the savage is quite attractive, but finding a stock is not the easiest thing to do and the mag well will limit your OAL. My first build was a savage, had I known better it would have been a rem. BUT if you can get all your components squared away the tikka action is slicker than any of the above, the 75* bolt throw is nice too.

We'll see how addicted I get. I feel like I can't go wrong with those options, but some options may be more right than others.

I'm planning on getting it in 308 and practice, practice, practice.

 

[ohiohunter]

We'll see how addicted I get. I feel like I can't go wrong with those options, but some options may be more right than others.

I'm planning on getting it in 308 and practice, practice, practice.

Exactly... don't paint yourself into a corner.

 

[MudRunner2005]

We'll see how addicted I get. I feel like I can't go wrong with those options, but some options may be more right than others.

I'm planning on getting it in 308 and practice, practice, practice.

This is the most accurate factory .308 Win that I've ever shot. Had mine since 2010.

REM 700 SS 308 24 5R MILSPEC $1,041.00 SHIPS FREE

Never ordered from this place, but it's a good price for this rifle, and they have it in stock.

Only upgrade I can think of that it truly needs right out of the box, is a trigger swap.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I would buy a Remington SPS stainless. I would put on a Timney trigger($120), then I would replace the factory stock(optional) with a Bell and Carlson from Stockystocks.com. If this setup didn't give you the accuracy that you want, then I would play with trueing the action or buying an aftermarket barrel.

 

[Timeout]

I would buy a Remington SPS stainless. I would put on a Timney trigger($120), then I would replace the factory stock(optional) with a Bell and Carlson from Stockystocks.com. If this setup didn't give you the accuracy that you want, then I would play with trueing the action or buying an aftermarket barrel.

I believe this build starts off on the right foot. I disagree with step #2. Sell the barrel for 50 bucks and get a Brux or Krieger. You don't need a man killer heavy contour either. The lighter barrels such as a #3 contour will shoot sub MOA and better. I built too many of the heavy contours before I figured out they are totally unnecessary for an accurate hunting rifle. If trying to save money, add a lighter spring to the factory trigger. These are available from ernie the gunsmith website. That will make a usable hunting trigger. I'm pretty fanatical about triggers, so I prefer Jewells in all of my 700's. Stocky's does have good prices, but 700's are great, because if you don't get in a hurry there will be some turn up on the forums at reduced prices. By all means bed the stock. Also there are lots of optics bargains on the forums.

 

[HarryN]

This is the break down of guns . And let's go with the person does not reload


I'm going with 7 mm mag
I'm really wanting a 26 inch barrel but that looks tuff
Stainless would be great . No muzzle break . Clip would work . No wood stock .
Would like to keep build at $1500.00
I just did a build on one and that one took me to $3000 gun $1500 range finder and 1500 in reloading . I don't think a lot of people can do that .
And I'm trying to give back to this forum for all the help

- 7mm mag - great idea, very flat shooting, so out to 250-300 yards, more or less negligible drop or wind error in a hunting situation.
- Not reloading - buy the ammo from a custom, precision reloader - example Monolithic Munitions (They are not far away from me, there are other really good ones out there as well).

IMHO, Focus on the long term and ability to upgrade:
- Trigger - just get any old trigger and smooth it out yourself a little. A trigger upgrade is easily added to an otherwise good rifle, and the price point is within the range of a "significant other" gift in the future. This provides a way to bond and share in the hobby.

- Action - I would use a really good quality, new custom action. This is a "core piece", not something easily upgraded. - around $1000

- Barrel - Again, not so inexpensive to upgrade, so buy a good one at the start.

- Scope - I shot a 270 win for many years with iron sights. (no, not long range). You don't need a scope to start out hunting deer with a 7mm mag until things are pretty far away.

Borrow a scope to sight it in, after that you could use 2 painted finishing nails epoxied to the barrel out to 100 yards and still be successful. A really determined person could file some notches into scope rings and make a simple + reticle with guitar string. Its a hack, but they are starting out - right ? Maybe the guitar string is going too far, but a scope is an easy, down the road "upgrade".

A nice fixed 6x IOR scope would work for 3-500 yards of hunting and that is around $600. Brown bag lunch and drink your own coffee for 3-4 months and you can afford the scope.

Stock - similarly - it is an add-on / upgrade. Not quite as easily as something like a scope or trigger, but still something that can be economized at first and "improved" over time.

Range finder - A new long range shooter will likely tie up with someone (or group) with more experience and more equipment. Just hold out on this area.

If they go too cheap in the beginning, they will just waste a lot of money in the future replacing "core" parts trying to upgrade performance, rather than buying a good "core" and upgrading peripherals.

 

[IdahoCTD]

I posted this on another thread but it applies here as well. You wouldn't hit your 1500 with a scope but you could be under 1500 for a rifle. If you sold the trigger and barrel without shooting them you'd probably get 125-150 from them. You'd have about 700 for a barrel, install, and truing the action. I would have the barrel threaded for a brake at the time of install just because it's so much cheaper. That would put you around 1450-1500 for a rifle with a custom barrel and Timney or Jewell trigger. A Savage would be cheaper but I wouldn't say better.

I would buy a Remington 700 long range, sell the barrel, send the action to LRI to have it trued and install a Bartlein or Krieger barrel. If you have enough leftover add a Jewell trigger, Cerakote, and a muzzle brake. The new take off barrel should sell for 125-150 and the whole gun should run under 700 with transfer fees if you buy it from Buds guns shop. The work at LRI, through the snipers hides group buy, should run about 300-350 plus 350 for the barrel. To do the whole thing (with new trigger, Cerakote, and muzzle brake) it would probably be closer to 18-1900 but the brake and Cerakote can be done at a later time too. I would have the barrel muzzle threaded while LRI had it though.

 

[Barrelnut]

I posted this on another thread but it applies here as well. You wouldn't hit your 1500 with a scope but you could be under 1500 for a rifle. If you sold the trigger and barrel without shooting them you'd probably get 125-150 from them. You'd have about 700 for a barrel, install, and truing the action. I would have the barrel threaded for a brake at the time of install just because it's so much cheaper. That would put you around 1450-1500 for a rifle with a custom barrel and Timney or Jewell trigger. A Savage would be cheaper but I wouldn't say better.

I would buy a Remington 700 long range, sell the barrel, send the action to LRI to have it trued and install a Bartlein or Krieger barrel. If you have enough leftover add a Jewell trigger, Cerakote, and a muzzle brake. The new take off barrel should sell for 125-150 and the whole gun should run under 700 with transfer fees if you buy it from Buds guns shop. The work at LRI, through the snipers hides group buy, should run about 300-350 plus 350 for the barrel. To do the whole thing (with new trigger, Cerakote, and muzzle brake) it would probably be closer to 18-1900 but the brake and Cerakote can be done at a later time too. I would have the barrel muzzle threaded while LRI had it though.

Guess you could just get an action from Buds as well instead of jumping thru so many loops. End result would be the same, just have to find a stock.