How much magnification?

Mike300wby

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Oct 16, 2016
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Shooting out to a mile, how much magnification does a spotting scope need to have to give good feedback and spot the hits?

recommendations? Probably won't get a lot of use so I don't want to break the bank.

Thanks,

mike
 
even the Best money can buy is only as good as your spotter person. sand or rock must surround your target so youcan see the bullet splash, mite want to look at remote cameras that you can view target while shooting . cheers
 
Any more than about 20x (and probably at 20x) and you will almost certainly lose the bullet for a second near the max ordinal which can make it a real bear to reacquire the trace. I've done fairly well with as little as 10x for spotting and 7.5x for shooting at that distance. No matter what, it's a real challenge and relies on tons of experience with shooting that far and setting everything up perfectly. Spending too little money on the optic here will destroy your attempt at achieving the stated goal.
 
This ^ and glass quality does start to come into play at these distances, especially depending on target size. I'm assuming the usual 36x36.

You can still roll 2/3 out of focus to try to get some vaper trail out when the bullet starts coming back down from max ord.
 
20X is what I have always used. Not quite a mile, max I can get is 1621 yards when crops are not planted. When they are I can get 1246 yards. Shooting at a 36x36 gong at the 1600. 24x24 at the 1200 and 1000 increments.
 
I normally use my BIG Eyes binos which are 15x80's. I see better with both eyes. The 15x allows me to see inpacts and have big enough field of view to see extreme misses.

Another tip we use since we shoot at rocks is to have shooter to size it in his reticle and give the spotter the size. Be sure both people are talk the same language . MOA or Mills. If you know the target is 1\2 mil big you can easily give correction based off target size.
 
So around 20x is needed to watch the bullet contrail, correct?

So why do the spotting scopes have the ability to have much more magnification? Again my use would be out to a mile or so?

Do you use the higher magnification for other things?

What would some suggestions be for a very casual shooter like me?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Spotting scopes are primarily made for bird watching, which is why the magnifications go so high.

You need clear glass more than magnification, so glass quality should be your aim. Buy the best optical quality you can afford, and don't worry if it's only 30x magnification.

If you want a practical comparison of optical quality, take any Leupold scope along with you when you look through the spotting scopes, and compare the sight picture. If it's better than the Leupold, buy it.

Too high magnification is a handicap at long range in any conditions where mirage is present, so avoid fixed, high magnification spotting scopes.
 
I was shooting at 400 yards other day in a rock pit...below valley floor......at one point I was able to see the mirage of heat waves in front of my target....but the wind was,blowing so hard and then stopping....holding sight picture was tough....
The mirage was at 15 power in my lrp scope....
 
Heck yeah!

Also, what is opinion on having the reticle on your spotting scope?

Mike

Here you go. I have no opinion about reticles in a spotting scope.


April 14, 2014 spotting scopes
This morning I took the Kowa 20-60X77 and a Bushnell Spacemaster 12-36X 60 to compare with a Sightron 6-24X42 AO, a Bushnell 6500 4 1/2-30X50 SF and a Swarovski z5 5-25X52 SF to the shooting range. There was a target at 200 yards with a few .22 caliber bullet holes so I decided to use it. After looking through the Kowa on its lowest setting of 20X I found a bullet hole at 12 o'clock about 2" from the "X" in the red part of the target and decided that would be the "target" detail.

When looking through the Sightron on 24X I just could not get it to resolve the bullet hole no matter how much I adjusted the scope. I could see holes in the white O.K. Then I got out the 6500 and found the hole with it set on 24X. I could not go down even 1X and still see the hole. After fooling with the z5 for a while trying to see in on a lower setting, I finally turned it up to 25X and could see the hole in the red. Thinking I was wasting time, but already had it with me, I took out the Bushnell Spacemaster. I set it on 20X and could easily see the hole at 12 o'clock so I turned it down to 12X. I could still see the hole!

I asked a fellow shooter if he didn't mind would he look through all the optics to see what he saw. He obliged; and even brought a Zeiss 3-15X42. He ended up on the same settings I did. Also he mentioned he just could not resolve the hole with the Sightron. When we looked though his Zeiss we could not see the hole.

Conclusion: Mediocre spotting scopes are definitely better than good rifle scopes for resolving detail.
 
Mike

Theres been some good comments brought up and this sometimes becomes a personal preference type of result. We all have our favorite brands and different twist and understandings of how its used. I have no problems with the different brands being used and we all pick up things and learn off of everyones opinions.

My experience with the spotting scopes.
The common size spotting scopes we use are 27-60x85
On our second 27-60x85 spotting scope we changed out the variable 27-60 eye piece to fixed 22x with a retical.

Our primary use is spotting bullet trace in flight, impact locations on steel and the landscape surrounding the target.
The bullet trace for reference as its approaching the target, impact locations on a steel plate as well as a good indicator on a close miss, this information changes with the amount of sunlight and humidity in the air as well as the caliber-bullet size that is causing the disturbance in the air.

We depend on this for feedback, corrections for the shooter and impacts with our 6.5s and 308s on ranges running from 200 to 1500 yards. As well as the 375s and 416s when running from 1000 to 3500 yards.

You will find that some days you have to back the power down a little due to the hot sun - mirage boiling away. But we really depend on seeing some trace but most importantly impact locations on the target face, a puff of dirt, rocks or branches anything that can give the person spotting some indication where the bullet hit. If the person spotting can't make out where on the plate the bullet hit in relation, he or she focuses on the movement-swing of the plate at the moment of impact, you can take something and hang onto it and hit the bottom or sides and see how it swings or twist right at first. The same thing happens on the steel plate if it hung by chains or straps. This as well as seeing the puck or reaction of the bullet hitting dirt, rocks or whatever are all very valuable clues to pass onto the shooter and thats why you see the power range being high. Just make sure the dust cloud being push by the wind doesn't through off your call on the impact on the ground, seen that happen already.

Someone mentioned that all this is good but yes the person behind the spotting scope is huge, you are 100% correct. He is your instructor that is going to get you either on or off the target. They can only do their best and many folks are intimidated to be put in that position, but if anything go shoot where theres no pressure and then its cool beans and they are having fun. One thing if anyone ever does the spotter - shooter team thing is the spotter should always try to tell the shooter where to aim versus where they hit. The person behind the rifle has enough to do getting back on target and a round cycled back in the chamber - the key is the shooter needs to trust his spotter. If he follows the new instructed impact correction and the bullet misses the spotter can correct off his last call. If the shooter does his own thing not trusting the spotter now the team is broken because the spotter no longer has a true indicator to go off of. In 2019 I had a situation where I really thought my spotter was wrong, I almost did my own thing but bit hard and did what I was told, later on I mentioned this because my gut feeling was correct. In a case like this even though a clock timer may be ticking away - stop and discuss, the spotter is only doing the best he can while behind the scope and yes in many cases the shooter is able to see impacts and signs as well in his rifle scope.

The fixed 22x eyepiece - I am impressed with how well we can still see detail at distance it may not be as great on seeing something small in detail at distance that could save the day. But I will say it does a great job image is crisp and very impressive the only reason we went this route on one of the spotters was to be a little more precise on our corrections to see if it makes any difference.

So you can down size this in a power range for a spotting scope that fits your needs, I hope some of this long dragged out info helps.

Cheers
I am osoh
JH
 
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