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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
GO824 Lathe FLUSH SYSTEMS
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 3042698" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p>A "bad" chamber can be cut going slow just as easily as a bad chamber can be cut going fast. It is the set-up and tooling, and the skills of the one 'driving' that matters. As posted previously, I have a life time of machining experience, and, I am a gunsmith school graduate (MCC class of '93). In school we were taught the 'slow' way. Dial in the bore on both ends, drill (using a formula given as part of the instruction), and chamber making .025-.050" per pass. All the while cleaning the cuttings from the reamer, wipe the 'chamber' clean with a patch and re-oiling the 'chamber' and reamer with dark threading oil. "Good" chambers and oversized chambers were cut by the students. I cut my 7 Mag oversized because I failed to realize the reamer had slipped back in the floating holder and no longer was self aligning (floating). I was able to cut the threads off and have another go at it. This time, cutting a "good" on sized chamber. After I started my GS business, I did the same way as taught in school, but the 'wheels' were always going 'round and 'round. I had the opportunity to closely examine an ancient Pratt & Whitney dedicated chambering machine (WW2 vintage). It had a muzzle flush system, and that prompted me to investigate and set one up for my lathe. Having machining experience, I had calculated and asked the reamer makers (JGS and Dave Manson) their recommendations for SFM (surface feet per minute). The 'old way' as taught in school was VERY slow on surface feet. The means the reamers was taking more rubbing the tool than cutting. After installing the muzzle flush, I was able to increase RPM, thus getting closer to the SFM recommended by the reamer makers, as friction was greatly reduced due to chip removal and lubrication. The machined finish of the chamber got better, even though it was not taking nearly as long to cut them. Finish improved greatly! I have the same lathe I bought new in '99, a Jet 13x40 Geared Head. Not the most expensive, by any means, but completely adequate for gunsmith work (threading and chambering, threading shotgun barrels for choke tubes, reaming sizing dies and general tool making). In short, the addition of the muzzle flush not only made chambers the same as the 'slow way' and with a better finish that need no polishing, but it cut the time needed to cut the chamber by at least 1/2, at times more. Why? Because I could turn the spindle faster and closer to the recommended SFM, and I spent less time clearing the cuttings. Less friction. There is not a thing wrong with using less time and getting better results. Machinists do it every day. And, that is all chambering is, a precision machining task. Many times a day a machinist will calculate how fast to turn the spindle on the lathe for the tool he is about to use, or how fast (or slow) to turn the milling cutter , both done for optimum performance of the tool and operation and still obtaining the desired result. I would not hesitate to compare chambers I cut with anyone else's. It should be noted that I have done more to my lathe to "make better" than just ad the muzzle flush. Better chucks and spiders, more accurate mountings of chucks and spiders to the spindle nose. The chucks provided with many (most) of the lathes , sold as "gunsmithing lathes", can be improved upon. (I am NOT looking for work! I have all I care to do now at my age). Cut your chambers anyway that makes you happy! Just passing along some of what I have learned over my time in the shop.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 3042698, member: 24284"] A "bad" chamber can be cut going slow just as easily as a bad chamber can be cut going fast. It is the set-up and tooling, and the skills of the one 'driving' that matters. As posted previously, I have a life time of machining experience, and, I am a gunsmith school graduate (MCC class of '93). In school we were taught the 'slow' way. Dial in the bore on both ends, drill (using a formula given as part of the instruction), and chamber making .025-.050" per pass. All the while cleaning the cuttings from the reamer, wipe the 'chamber' clean with a patch and re-oiling the 'chamber' and reamer with dark threading oil. "Good" chambers and oversized chambers were cut by the students. I cut my 7 Mag oversized because I failed to realize the reamer had slipped back in the floating holder and no longer was self aligning (floating). I was able to cut the threads off and have another go at it. This time, cutting a "good" on sized chamber. After I started my GS business, I did the same way as taught in school, but the 'wheels' were always going 'round and 'round. I had the opportunity to closely examine an ancient Pratt & Whitney dedicated chambering machine (WW2 vintage). It had a muzzle flush system, and that prompted me to investigate and set one up for my lathe. Having machining experience, I had calculated and asked the reamer makers (JGS and Dave Manson) their recommendations for SFM (surface feet per minute). The 'old way' as taught in school was VERY slow on surface feet. The means the reamers was taking more rubbing the tool than cutting. After installing the muzzle flush, I was able to increase RPM, thus getting closer to the SFM recommended by the reamer makers, as friction was greatly reduced due to chip removal and lubrication. The machined finish of the chamber got better, even though it was not taking nearly as long to cut them. Finish improved greatly! I have the same lathe I bought new in '99, a Jet 13x40 Geared Head. Not the most expensive, by any means, but completely adequate for gunsmith work (threading and chambering, threading shotgun barrels for choke tubes, reaming sizing dies and general tool making). In short, the addition of the muzzle flush not only made chambers the same as the 'slow way' and with a better finish that need no polishing, but it cut the time needed to cut the chamber by at least 1/2, at times more. Why? Because I could turn the spindle faster and closer to the recommended SFM, and I spent less time clearing the cuttings. Less friction. There is not a thing wrong with using less time and getting better results. Machinists do it every day. And, that is all chambering is, a precision machining task. Many times a day a machinist will calculate how fast to turn the spindle on the lathe for the tool he is about to use, or how fast (or slow) to turn the milling cutter , both done for optimum performance of the tool and operation and still obtaining the desired result. I would not hesitate to compare chambers I cut with anyone else's. It should be noted that I have done more to my lathe to "make better" than just ad the muzzle flush. Better chucks and spiders, more accurate mountings of chucks and spiders to the spindle nose. The chucks provided with many (most) of the lathes , sold as "gunsmithing lathes", can be improved upon. (I am NOT looking for work! I have all I care to do now at my age). Cut your chambers anyway that makes you happy! Just passing along some of what I have learned over my time in the shop. [/QUOTE]
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GO824 Lathe FLUSH SYSTEMS
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