lester7009
Well-Known Member
What works best to remove cooper out of 270 rifle.
Shoot at range cooper seems to build up and hard to get out.
Shoot at range cooper seems to build up and hard to get out.
Cooper removal in Rifle what works best
- Thread starter lester7009
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J E Custom
Well-Known Member
If the rifle is new, it sounds like it should be broke in using the shoot and clean method. Shoot one round and clean. Then repeat this 7 to 10 times) It takes a while but it is worth it in the rifles
ability to minimize fouling.
Use something like butches bore shine that will clean fairly fast to speed the process. as you clean, you should be able to feel the improvement of the bores condition.
Allow the rifle 4 or 5 minutes to cool between shots while soaking in the solvent.
After this process you should be able to shoot 3 shot strings without to much fouling and clean 3 or 4 times and the rifle should be broke in and fouling should be at a minimum.
This also normally helps the accuracy.
J E CUSTOM
Longrang3r
Well-Known Member
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This ^^
I have been using BoreTech CU+2 with good success for several years. It is ammonia free, cleans quickly, and can be left in stubborn barrels for extenteded periods without risk of corrosion.
cahunter805
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+1 for boretech products! They work great.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
+1
This is my preferred solvent, But it is slower than the butches and that is why I don't use it at the range.
Butches should not be left in the bore for more than 4 hours but it is fast enough to do break ins in a timely fashion.
Sweets 7-62 is about the fastest, but it is very harsh and should only be used as a last resort for badly fouled barrels and not left in barrels for more than 3 or 4 minutes.
There are basically only three or fore types of solvent to pick from. those that can be left in the bore
only minutes, those that can be left for 3 to 4 hours, those that can be left over night and those that can be left indefinitely.
Solvent recommendations should be observed and understood to avoid doing damage to a fine barrel (Or any other for that matter)
Caution: very few solvents should be left in the bore for storage and even though some solvents say it is ok, I feel it is still best to store a rifle in a clean condition and with a well oiled bore.
I use 4 different types/brands of solvents for my needs even though there are many to choose from
that are probably just as good but 0nly one solvent will not work for me because some times I need a very fast solvent at times and other times I can take my time and let the barrel soak over night,
so different rates of cleaning works best for me.
I have bore scoped many rifle barrels and have seen the results of not following the solvent manufactures recommendations and poor storage practice.
Just my opinion
J E CUSTOM
cahunter805
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- Jun 18, 2010
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JE
Boretech Eliminator states to leave a light film in the bore during storage. What are your thoughts? Have you tested it?
Boretech Eliminator states to leave a light film in the bore during storage. What are your thoughts? Have you tested it?
Yes, I have used it extensively and it works as claimed. If there is stubborn copper I use the Boretech CU+2 as stated in the former post. They are compatable with each other. While you can leave either in the bore without harm, my method is to wipe the bore dry, then apply a light patch of Montana Blend Bore Conditioner. First shot accuracy has been close to right on using this method with my rifles.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
I have not left anything in the bore for "Storage". I have left a light film in the bore for several weeks while hunting, and dry patched before use, but I did find traces of fouling on the first patch,
so I ether didn't get it totally clean or it was still working.
I have looked for solvent damage when leaving it for several weeks, and found no evidence of it with Bore tech except the dirty dry patch afterwards.
So If I know that the rifle will be stored for longer periods, I still feel more comfortable with a good film of oil in the bore. I am interested in trying the bore conditioner that Greyfox mentioned.
As stated earlier, I have seen solvent damage and it is very scary, so it is possible if the solvent application is not followed damage can result. so I will be the first to say that I am conservative
when using solvents and error on the side of caution by removing all solvents at some point and oil the bore.
When cleaning a premium quality barrel, convenience is not considered even though it is sometimes a pain. I am still nervous until get a barrel clean and oiled. Any product that can dissolve copper should be respected.
Just my comfort zone
J E CUSTOM
JE,
What does solvent damage look like through the bore scope? If that is even possible to explain. I have stopped leaving the film in myself after noticing point of impact differences between the film and a bore that had been oiled and then dry patched. I hadn't thought until recently about the fact that the film was still "working".
Thanks,
Derek
What does solvent damage look like through the bore scope? If that is even possible to explain. I have stopped leaving the film in myself after noticing point of impact differences between the film and a bore that had been oiled and then dry patched. I hadn't thought until recently about the fact that the film was still "working".
Thanks,
Derek
TwoMore
Well-Known Member
I use the boretech also but for some reason when I am breaking in a barrel the butches seem to keep the copper down better between shots so when I am breakin in a seem to like the butches after the bore tech. on heavier jobs I use montana extreme copper killer and then run a few patches of buches and a few dry patches. the copper killer is a brain cell killer too lol so i use it at the range when i need quick results. the boretech seems to dry out the bore and I see copper sooner , any one else see this too? or is it just me ?
Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
Bore damage from solvent looks like a real light glass bead blasting. It removes the shine that is natural in a lapped bore. It causes the barrel to be more prone to fouling.
Wipe Out is a fine solvent but never leave it overnight. In a CM barrel it will have you chasing your tail with an endless pile of brown patches. That is rust. In blued actions is collects in the barrel threads and orange rust will appear. On stainless guns it just leaves pits like any other ammonia based solvent will. I have seen several Bat and Defiance actions with severely pitted bolt bodies. Best to neutralize it with a couple oily patches and wipe down anywhere it has touched.
Never seen any issue with Bore Tech Eliminator solvents. I frequently leave those in overnight for really dirty barrels.
Wipe Out is a fine solvent but never leave it overnight. In a CM barrel it will have you chasing your tail with an endless pile of brown patches. That is rust. In blued actions is collects in the barrel threads and orange rust will appear. On stainless guns it just leaves pits like any other ammonia based solvent will. I have seen several Bat and Defiance actions with severely pitted bolt bodies. Best to neutralize it with a couple oily patches and wipe down anywhere it has touched.
Never seen any issue with Bore Tech Eliminator solvents. I frequently leave those in overnight for really dirty barrels.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Hired gun had a good description and some recommendations.
To me it looks like the solvent etches the barrel and takes the smoothness and shine out of the bore.
When you etch a material, it removes some of the metallurgical materials and leaves some of the others alone, giving it the dull finish and a rough texture. solvents are by nature active in order to work so care should be used when using them.
That is the reason I prefer to leave an inert oil in the bore.
J E CUSTOM
