CLP as a Carbon Remover in Bore?

General RE LEE

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I've used Hoppe's with a cleaning rod and bore guide to get carbon fouling out of the bore.

I've got a bottle of Breakfree CLP and I've come to really like the multi purpose uses of the stuff.

With that said, is CLP and good product to put on patches and run down bore to get the carbon out? I've seen some You Tube videos that show it isn't all that great as a bore cleaner but who knows what to believe.

Anyone use it as a bore cleaner for powder fouling?
 
there was a lot youtube videos with people having mixed success with it and then the major barrel makers started to void warranties if you used it and that was the end of people using it, or admitting they are using it. I haven't used it myself Boretech has been my go to and happy with its performance
 
there was a lot youtube videos with people having mixed success with it and then the major barrel makers started to void warranties if you used it and that was the end of people using it, or admitting they are using it. I haven't used it myself Boretech has been my go to and happy with its performance

Voiding warranties? What could it due to a bore? Hydraulic damage upon firing like oil left in the bore?
 
My experience with many years of CLP was when at school they showed us Hoppes, Shooters Choice, and the like, CLP was just a good lube for sea salt rust prevention. It will remove fouling as stated, but no copper or hard baked on carbon. Ever scrape a bolt carrrier group from an AR?

Edit to add, now I use Bore Tech Elimator for most cleaning and when need some JB Gray.
 
My experience with many years of CLP was when at school they showed us Hoppes, Shooters Choice, and the like, CLP was just a good lube for sea salt rust prevention. It will remove fouling as stated, but no copper or hard baked on carbon. Ever scrape a bolt carrrier group from an AR?

How about CLP and a bronze brush? I'm a bronze brush fan.
 
How about CLP and a bronze brush? I'm a bronze brush fan.
Bronze brush will work on some things, but a pocket knife or scraper tool works faster.

On my bolt guns I use a bronze brush for all cleaning. But never run CLP down the bore, unless I am storing the gun for a looooong time.

Just spray some CLP on an AR bolt and let it sit. Try to remove carbon. Then do the same one with BTE and see how much easier/faster it works.

I am surprised we do not have more issues in the DoD from bullets getting stuck in the bore because they do not ever pull copper out. I am sure carbon rings are atrocious.
 
You can easily remove powder fouling and copper jacket fouling with various cleaners (I use wipeout/patchout or BTE) but the only way I have found to remove the hard carbon is with an abrasive. I couldn't get it out by brushing with bronze or nylon brushes. It's too hard.

I have successfully used the following abrasive cleaners with one caveat:
JBs Bore Cleaning Compound
Iosso
Holland's Witches Brew
Rem 40X

The caveat is don't use a bronze brush (i don't even use a nylon brush with abrasives either) when you clean the barrel. I don't care what the instructions say. I scratched the bejesus out of my Sako 85 30-06 barrel using a worn out bronze brush with a patch over it and can't recall if I was using Iosso or Witches Brew but I left some obvious scratches over the lands and through the grooves in several spots. Haven't shot the rifle since, so I hope I haven't wrecked its accuracy.

All you need to do is get a jag such as a Parker Hale or Dewey and cut the patch to fit tightly in the bore. (Some folks wrap the patch around the jag like rolling an old school cigarette) Borescope the barrel first to see where the carbon is located and work the patch back and forth in that area. Less is more. Do 10 or so strokes back and forth and then check it with the borescope. If it's clean or clean enough you're done. No need to do any excessive cleaning. You can clean back down to bare steel or just remove enough carbon to make you feel better about the bore...your choice.

What I am finding is it takes 200-300 rounds for the carbon buildup to look significant throughout the grooves and on part of the lands. That's when I will clean with an abrasive. This is using IMR 4350, H 4350 and RL 16 powders. Otherwise, it's just normal cleaning after every range session to get out the powder fouling and copper jacket material out of the barrel. After a typical cleaning session, when I look through the borescope, all I will see in the barrel is black carbon.

How much carbon in the barrel is too much? It's totally subjective or until you start seeing velocity increase by 50-75 fps or you start popping primers, heavy bolt lift etc. with the same load. I don't wait till any of these signs appear. I just clean out the carbon when I think it looks bad.

If you don't think abrasives with a brush will scratch your barrel, you can check out Erik Cortina's youtube interviews with Frank Green of Bartlein barrels. He shows a picture of a barrel a customer cleaned with abrasives and scratched it. I was skeptical myself til i scratched my Sako hammer forged barrel. No more brushes with abrasives for me. They're not necessary. A tight fitting patch with abrasives will get the carbon out.
 
You can easily remove powder fouling and copper jacket fouling with various cleaners (I use wipeout/patchout or BTE) but the only way I have found to remove the hard carbon is with an abrasive. I couldn't get it out by brushing with bronze or nylon brushes. It's too hard.

I have successfully used the following abrasive cleaners with one caveat:
JBs Bore Cleaning Compound
Iosso
Holland's Witches Brew
Rem 40X

The caveat is don't use a bronze brush (i don't even use a nylon brush with abrasives either) when you clean the barrel. I don't care what the instructions say. I scratched the bejesus out of my Sako 85 30-06 barrel using a worn out bronze brush with a patch over it and can't recall if I was using Iosso or Witches Brew but I left some obvious scratches over the lands and through the grooves in several spots. Haven't shot the rifle since, so I hope I haven't wrecked its accuracy.

All you need to do is get a jag such as a Parker Hale or Dewey and cut the patch to fit tightly in the bore. (Some folks wrap the patch around the jag like rolling an old school cigarette) Borescope the barrel first to see where the carbon is located and work the patch back and forth in that area. Less is more. Do 10 or so strokes back and forth and then check it with the borescope. If it's clean or clean enough you're done. No need to do any excessive cleaning. You can clean back down to bare steel or just remove enough carbon to make you feel better about the bore...your choice.

What I am finding is it takes 200-300 rounds for the carbon buildup to look significant throughout the grooves and on part of the lands. That's when I will clean with an abrasive. This is using IMR 4350, H 4350 and RL 16 powders. Otherwise, it's just normal cleaning after every range session to get out the powder fouling and copper jacket material out of the barrel. After a typical cleaning session, when I look through the borescope, all I will see in the barrel is black carbon.

How much carbon in the barrel is too much? It's totally subjective or until you start seeing velocity increase by 50-75 fps or you start popping primers, heavy bolt lift etc. with the same load. I don't wait till any of these signs appear. I just clean out the carbon when I think it looks bad.

If you don't think abrasives with a brush will scratch your barrel, you can check out Erik Cortina's youtube interviews with Frank Green of Bartlein barrels. He shows a picture of a barrel a customer cleaned with abrasives and scratched it. I was skeptical myself til i scratched my Sako hammer forged barrel. No more brushes with abrasives for me. They're not necessary. A tight fitting patch with abrasives will get the carbon out.

I use the VFG pellets available from Brownell's to scrub with JB Bore Paste.

With that said, I have used a patch wrapped around a brush with JB to scrub before with no issues. It's my understanding this is ok. Abrasives applied directly to a brass brush is the problem from my understanding.
 

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