christensen arms ridgeline, I need help.

I believe loose action screws might be a common theme with CA guns after they've been shot. My buddy has a Ridgeline that shot lights out, and then got inconsistent--he found the action screws were loose, and tightened them up. Voila! Back to being a sub-MOA gun. I've made it a habit of checking mine on my .300 Win, but have yet to see them loosen. I don't know what the combination of factors would be that would cause that to be common on CAs, maybe it's the fact that they're so lightweight and every force is that much more violent on the components (pure speculation on my part.)

As far as not shooting well, you had so many variables in your shooting combinations that you were doomed from the start. LRO gave you great advice on how to start from scratch and make sure that you had a consistent baseline to gauge your results.

I'm not naive to Christensen's history, but in all of these threads (no manufacturer is immune to these dogpiles) there are plenty of instances of user-error. I'm glad you seem to be sorted out, and I hope the gun continues to shoot for you.
 
I still seem to be learning the hard way that if I don't check all of the mounting screws on a rifle that is new or comes into the shop, it will turn out to be a problem. I have wasted more shots than I care to admit because of loose action screws or scope mounts. The rule is tighten everything first. It bites me if I ignore the rule. This bit us on this last trip to Africa. My daughter's rifle that has been very solid for several years started having trouble with the scope moving. We tightened the rings. It was still having issues. Got home to find out the front mount had come loose on the action. I'm starting to learn these things need to be checked periodically.

...and clean it too. I tear them down and put them back together now too.
 
It's the barrel..I think Christensen had a bad batch of .30 cal barrels. I've already rebarreled 4 brand new rifles for customers and all were.300 win mags. I used to work at a custom barrel shot so I did some investigating and 2 of the take off barrels were measured. Problems were the following -

-tight bore (.3000) is the ideal measurement for 30 cals plus or minus a couple tenths. The ones I measured were .2994-.2995". Which isn't terrible but when paired with the next problem it causes problems.

-large groove diameter. Again ideal is .3080". The one I inspected was .3095". When I worked at the barrel shop we literally threw away anything over .3085".

-crap steel... They are either using really cheap steel or not heat treating to relieve stress properly. I know this because when I gauge pinned the barrels at the muzzle the bore grew a couple tenths (.0002) where the thread tenon on the muzzle was. So basically the bullet is going through the barrel and then hits a loose spot in the muzzle. Exactly the opposite of what you want.

There it is. It's not ammo, stocks, bases or rings. These 4 guns shot between 1.5-8moa on the bench. After rebarreling they were sub 1/2" moa. All I changed was the barrel and improved the bedding.
You say they used crap steel, but I've noticed over the last few years that all of the button rifled barrels i thread at the nuzzle with anything smaller than 5/8" of an inch diameter will open up a couple of tenths of an inch in the area of the bore that they were theaded in, regardless of brand. I never see this happen with cut rifled barrels. It doesn't seem to happen as long as the diameter of the thread is 3/4" or larger. I have also seen it show up when slugging a barrel under areas that are fluted. For this reason I tend to recommend to my customers nowadays that are going to install a thin barrel and have it threaded for a can or a brake to go with a cut rifled barrels even though i mostly work with button rifled barrels. I would be interested to know your thoughts on this subject as you've got some experience in the barrel making process.
 
If you read in my last post I said I believe the screws where loose from the manufacture.
I am not sure how you think loose action screws are a user created problem?
As for me getting rid of this rifle ?
If I was going to do that it would of been done already.
I have lots of rifles that I had to tune and work the bugs out of. They did turn out to be good shooters.
The reputation of CA and quality control issues is what got me to thinking in the first place about sending it back.
If it was a used rifle or a different manufacturer. I would of pulled it down long before this point.
As for bashing CA. A lot of folks jumped on this post and started beating.
Any way. I think it's fixed. I was hoping to share my experience for the next guy.
I was stripping the ridgeline down to send back to Christensen arms, Simply had enough. I found loose screws, My scope base had loosened, I torqued it with loctite and bedded, but it loosened, The other very surprising thing I found was very loose action screws, Put it all back together torqued and loctited. Went and shot 15 rounds, The last 3 shots fell in something like 1/4 to 1/3moa.
If any one wants the whole story of load development and fix I would suggest going over to LRO.
Like I said in the beginning this thread was started to inquire about CA customer service and warranty. I hope its fixed, I feel like I stand a really good chance of it being solved, but I will not be 100% convinced until I get good groups on 3 different days.
I didn't say that you caused the action screws to loosen. I was referring to the scope base as a "user created" issue. My Ridgeline didn't come with a factory mounted scope base. Maybe yours did. If so, then it is purely a manufacturer's issue. I would wager that the loose scope base had a greater impact on accuracy than the action screws. Regardless of the issue, I hope you have great success with your rifle and enjoy every outing with it.
 
You say they used crap steel, but I've noticed over the last few years that all of the button rifled barrels i thread at the nuzzle with anything smaller than 5/8" of an inch diameter will open up a couple of tenths of an inch in the area of the bore that they were theaded in, regardless of brand. I never see this happen with cut rifled barrels. It doesn't seem to happen as long as the diameter of the thread is 3/4" or larger. I have also seen it show up when slugging a barrel under areas that are fluted. For this reason I tend to recommend to my customers nowadays that are going to install a thin barrel and have it threaded for a can or a brake to go with a cut rifled barrels even though i mostly work with button rifled barrels. I would be interested to know your thoughts on this subject as you've got some experience in the barrel making process.
We noticed this with Broughton barrels. They were tack drivers until we started to thread muzzles or send them out for fluting. The stresses induced by the button were released to a certain degree (our observations) and the bore dimensions increased very slightly, on the order of a couple tenths (.0001)". Groups opened up enough that for Fclass, we swapped barrels to cut rifled barrels.
 
You say they used crap steel, but I've noticed over the last few years that all of the button rifled barrels i thread at the nuzzle with anything smaller than 5/8" of an inch diameter will open up a couple of tenths of an inch in the area of the bore that they were theaded in, regardless of brand. I never see this happen with cut rifled barrels. It doesn't seem to happen as long as the diameter of the thread is 3/4" or larger. I have also seen it show up when slugging a barrel under areas that are fluted. For this reason I tend to recommend to my customers nowadays that are going to install a thin barrel and have it threaded for a can or a brake to go with a cut rifled barrels even though i mostly work with button rifled barrels. I would be interested to know your thoughts on this subject as you've got some experience in the barrel making process.
I would say you are 100percent on the right track. The benefit of cut barrel is less induced stress.

You can still have excellent shooting button barrels that are thinner but they are dependent on the quality of steel, heat treat, and button lube used to limit stress. Some companies are better than others.
 
So 10 pages of Christensen rifles suck from you experts and come too find out the screws were loose. Think the biggest problem was the lose screws running their mouths. I'd like too see proof half your stories are true. "I got a friend who bought one. Shot 200 rounds from 5 manufacturers in a day and it wouldn't shoot good." I'm gonna say a majority off these Christensen problems are user error. loc tite only works on clean ,oil free surfaces. When you mount your scope, clean all the screw holes with alcohol or lighter fluid. When you get the gun fully disassemble it. Clean all shipping grease from it. put it back together, lubing only what needs it. Put a scope that you know is reliable on it. Never put a new scope on a new gun, grab some ammo and head too the range. A few key things will make your new gun much more fun
 
Ok so here is the final verdict on My Christensen arms.
1. I wish I never made this initial post. I was just looking for experience with Christensen arms warranty customer service.
2. Yes my scope base screws came loose. That was 100% my error. I didn't mix my bedding compound properly and it eroded shooting and loosened up.
3 Yes my action screws came loose, or where loose from the start. Don't know.
4 After tightening all the screws re bedding the scope base, and starting over. It still is about a moa rifle @100 yards. I have shot it off a bipod and rear bag, a bench rest front and rear bag , and just sand bags front and rear. The rifle is a straight up moa at 100 yard rifle. I was surprised and disappointed that the screws getting torqued did not seriously help it.
5 No I have not shot 10 different factory loads out of it. Who the hell can find 10 different factory loads in one caliber right now. But I did shoot fed gold medal match, Hornady match, federal premium and Berger ammo. They all held right around moa. Close enough I am not bothering sending it back because I feel it will just come back saying it meets standards at .9moa.
6 This barrel seems to foul or get dirty faster than my other rifles. Maybe its just me, maybe its normal but my other centerfire rifles can go over 100 rounds with no real loss in accuracy before cleaning. This Christensen can not. 50-75 rounds is it. My other rifles are from a 223 to a 375H&H. Yes I have other rifles in the same caliber as my Christensen.
7. Will I buy another CA rifle, maybe, probably. I like the rifle. it is what it is. Its a Moa or a bit better Light weight hunting rifle. I have other factory rifles that shoot better. yes. But they are also half the price of the CA. I guess I was expecting more for $2k.
8. I have a load for the rifle that will shoot .5-.75 moa out to 800 yards. But for some reason at 100 yards its still just under moa, The groups tighten at range for some reason. I have about 400 rounds down the pipe right now. I am going to get it through this hunting season and then I will restock it. Might re-barrel it next year. But with all the rifles I have owned and loaded for in the past 30 years, this one is the most finicky I have owned. Its like the girlfriend that drove you nuts but you still dated the crazy *** for some reason.
 
Ok so here is the final verdict on My Christensen arms.
1. I wish I never made this initial post. I was just looking for experience with Christensen arms warranty customer service.
2. Yes my scope base screws came loose. That was 100% my error. I didn't mix my bedding compound properly and it eroded shooting and loosened up.
3 Yes my action screws came loose, or where loose from the start. Don't know.
4 After tightening all the screws re bedding the scope base, and starting over. It still is about a moa rifle @100 yards. I have shot it off a bipod and rear bag, a bench rest front and rear bag , and just sand bags front and rear. The rifle is a straight up moa at 100 yard rifle. I was surprised and disappointed that the screws getting torqued did not seriously help it.
5 No I have not shot 10 different factory loads out of it. Who the hell can find 10 different factory loads in one caliber right now. But I did shoot fed gold medal match, Hornady match, federal premium and Berger ammo. They all held right around moa. Close enough I am not bothering sending it back because I feel it will just come back saying it meets standards at .9moa.
6 This barrel seems to foul or get dirty faster than my other rifles. Maybe its just me, maybe its normal but my other centerfire rifles can go over 100 rounds with no real loss in accuracy before cleaning. This Christensen can not. 50-75 rounds is it. My other rifles are from a 223 to a 375H&H. Yes I have other rifles in the same caliber as my Christensen.
7. Will I buy another CA rifle, maybe, probably. I like the rifle. it is what it is. Its a Moa or a bit better Light weight hunting rifle. I have other factory rifles that shoot better. yes. But they are also half the price of the CA. I guess I was expecting more for $2k.
8. I have a load for the rifle that will shoot .5-.75 moa out to 800 yards. But for some reason at 100 yards its still just under moa, The groups tighten at range for some reason. I have about 400 rounds down the pipe right now. I am going to get it through this hunting season and then I will restock it. Might re-barrel it next year. But with all the rifles I have owned and loaded for in the past 30 years, this one is the most finicky I have owned. Its like the girlfriend that drove you nuts but you still dated the crazy *** for some reason.
Don't feel bad. They do suck.
 
i will say this, when someone puts out a factory adjustable muzzle braked carbon barreled ,blueprinted 700 style action with a 2.5 pound trigger, set in a carbon fiber stock shooting sub moa with factory ammo or 1/2 moa with hand loads for under $2000 and people bitch, I'd hate to work for them
I would like to buy one of those rifles myself
 
I feel it would be only right to post a follow up to this thread, not to resurrect it but to give it closure.
Long story short , I bought a 300wm ridgeline, after considerable effort I got a half decent load for it. Made it through hunting season. Sent it back to christensen arms and they installed a new barrel. I got it back in about 3 weeks. After some basic load development today I have it shooting under 1/2 moa. Over all its much more consistent than it was over a wider range of ammo.
 
I have a ridgeline in 300wm, I can not for the life of me get it to group consistently better than 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. I have shot it off a bench with bipods, sandbags, and a rest, . Prone off of bipods.
I am about ready to throw in the towel and send it back, My fear is they will just bounce it back and say no its normal.
I shoot other rifles and they all can hold better than one inch at 100 yards. So I am pretty confident I should be able to shoot this rifle under an inch off the bench at 100yards.
Any one have any experience with Christensen arms warranty?
Not trying to bash any manufacturer. I was just curious how they handle things like this
If I had to guess I would say the ammo is the culprit. Other than that maybe a bad scope Mount or maybe the scope itself. I am more than confident Christensen will work with you. I would start with a different load in your ammo. My Christensen 6.5 PRC sub moa at 100 yrds. If I purchase another rifle it would be a Christensen Arms or a BERGERA in 300 WM . Or 300 PRC personally I like the ammo selection of the 300 WM Call Christensen. They will help!
 
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