Broz
Well-Known Member
I use a plumb bob too, so what do you do to level the rifle while you set the scope to the plumb line?
Jeff
Bubble level??
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I use a plumb bob too, so what do you do to level the rifle while you set the scope to the plumb line?
Jeff
Hunter2678
Well-Known Member
I like the offset scope level from 21st century shooting. Excellent features and quality for the $$. The cutout window for seeing your SF knob settings is what I really like.
http://www.pmatool.com/product_info...d/177?osCsid=4fdd2df369365b903f19429070e4df47
http://www.pmatool.com/product_info...d/177?osCsid=4fdd2df369365b903f19429070e4df47
Outlaw6.0
Well-Known Member
I've been playing with the Level/Level/Level from Wheeler (piece of crap BTW). I qualify the magnetized level that fits in your action rails with an expensive digital level that I keep, on a flat plane to make sure it is square before each use. I keep that level in the action rails & level (of course) while truing my reticle. I then true the Bubble level to the action rail level when the scope rings are tightened to avoid any stacked tolerances.
BTW- Broz- PM me your addy & i'll send you that B-Square, it's just collecting dust here.
t
Broz
Well-Known Member
That is a kind offer. But first consider this. Before you mount the scope install the Bsquare on your rail and check it to be true with your good level for a double check. Then use it while squaring your scope with the plum bob. Last step mount the tube mounted level and make it match the rail mounted Bsquare. Then remove the Bsquare level and keep it around in case you ever need to check reticle trueness periodically.
This is pretty much what I do if I am installing a tube mounted level. If I am mounting a rail level I am just done sooner.
The final step is to shoot the bottom of the plum line once, dial up 30 moa and shoot again using the same point of aim. If I did a good job the second shot will be on the plum line 31.4" above the first shot.
Jeff
Outlaw6.0
Well-Known Member
Not a bad idea at all. Let me ask you this: If I shoot my plum line, won't the weight fall off?! LOLOL!
Sorry brother, that was the first thing to come to mind.
Broz
Well-Known Member
Yea, but only once.
Ok, here is a pic. The X 'd out holes were a little sight in zeroing going on.
Outlaw6.0
Well-Known Member
Yea, but only once.
Ok, here is a pic. The X 'd out holes were a little sight in zeroing going on.
I was actually thinking about picking up some of these: (they have both mil/mil & moa/moa)
Then you can qualify your turrets too.
t
MontanaRifleman
Well-Known Member
Jeff, I set the rifle up on bipod with the butt between a couple of sand bags on top of another sandbag. I remove the bolt, and I eyeball the plumb bob line and adjust the rifle so the line splits the bore, then I adjust the windage reticle to be parallel with the line. Then I eyeball the bore again to make sure the rifle hasn't moved and when bore and reticle are lined up I torque the rings down and then double check everything. Then I mount the level making sure the bore and scope remain plumb.
COBrad
Well-Known Member
I have use several different ones. I have the USO folding one on a long range varmint rifle and it has worked quite well. All of the one I have used worked.
I prefer a scope mounted level over the rail mounts. The main reason for this is that once the level is set true to the travel of the scope (or reticle), then it is set for life. I can take the scope off and re-install and never have to re-level the scope. Also, with the level on the scope, it allows me to adjust the scope in the rings so the rifle "fits" me better. Depending on the stock and ring height I have seen several times where a very slight cant in the rifle will make the cheek weld easier to reproduce and feel better (you cant do this with a fixed rail mount). I think too many guys worry about having the rifle perfectly level, when all that really matters is the the scope travels (or reticle) true to the earth.
Broz, I actually shoot my level in just like you with the plumb line. For us guys that dial, you can never trust that the reticle is 100% in line with the actual travel.
Joel
Broz, I actually shoot my level in just like you with the plumb line. For us guys that dial, you can never trust that the reticle is 100% in line with the actual travel.
Joel
Broz
Well-Known Member
MontanaRifleman
Well-Known Member
Joel, I agree you may not be able to get it 100% but I think you can get it very close. Also, the level is for keeping reticle travel true to gravity AND eliminating cant.
COBrad
Well-Known Member
The eliminating cant part becomes more and more significant as ranges become longer.
Elimination cant in the RIFLE isn't what is really important. Eliminating cant in the SCOPE is. One of these days I will film a demonstration showing this, as most people do not think it is possible to shoot at long range if the gun is not perfectly level. We do this all the time with archery equipment, and I have set up several rifles where the gun was not level (for shooter comfort), but the scope is, and they shoot true out to 1000 yards.
Joel
Joel
