Zero Stop options for NightForce SHV 3-10X42?

MOJO67

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All,

I recently purchased a new NF 3-10 SHV and love everything about it, besides the fact it doesn't have a Zero Stop. Didn't think it'd be an issue when buying the scope, but now that I've had the scope for awhile, not having a ZS is kind of a hassle. I called NF and apparently they don't offer a ZS option for this particular scope. Does anyone know of an aftermarket option available to have a ZS installed on my scope?

Thanks!
 
Do you plan on doing a lot of dialing for fun with it? In my case I used this same scope on my hunting rifle. My main concern in this regard was to be able to return the elevation turret to my zero point. So I stuck a little note inside the turret cap to remind me which turn I was on as designated in the turret cylinder.
 
I have ZS in some of my scopes and never even set them up, because I don't need them.

I use Burris Signature rings (usually the XTR's for a NF, and sometimes a 20 MoA base) and utilize the inserts to position the scope so that when it is sighted in the elevation turret is about 10 MoA above the bottom. Voila! - there's my ZS.
 
I love my 3-10 SHV, but on a bitter cold cow hunt this December it cost my an opportunity at a cow because I had to take the time to unscrew the elevation cap and it was so cold it was squeaking and making noise so I had to go slow. I hated the capped elevation then...(but did end up getting a cow)

But I loved the capped feature when hunting in Kodiak and busting alders, getting your gun in and off boats/planes, etc. I never had to worry if I might have an issue. So there's some trade off...

For a compact in that weight range, I think your only option will be to upgrade to the 2.5-10 NXS. I have one of those too and it's not necessarily a better scope, just more/different features. The trade off for zero stop is taller more intrusive turrets and exposed windage. I do like the NXS compact though.

Let me know if you find something that works though! With NF adding illumination to the 3-10, and the 4-14 F1 having capped windage and a zero stop, maybe some day we will see those features all in the 3-10?...that would drive up the price, but would be a nice little scope if they could keep it at the $1k mark.
 
Do you plan on doing a lot of dialing for fun with it? In my case I used this same scope on my hunting rifle. My main concern in this regard was to be able to return the elevation turret to my zero point. So I stuck a little note inside the turret cap to remind me which turn I was on as designated in the turret cylinder.

Yes. That's my hang up. I'm not only hunting, but also banging lots of steel at various ranges. So yes, doing lot's of dialing and trying to count clicks when returning to zero is a hassle.
 
Yes. That's my hang up. I'm not only hunting, but also banging lots of steel at various ranges. So yes, doing lot's of dialing and trying to count clicks when returning to zero is a hassle.

You're going to want to go to the SHV F1 model, or a NXS or ATACR. The 3-10 is a pure hunting scope in my opinion.

If you can return or resell the 3-10, you should be able to find a used in good condition 4-14 SHV F1 for $900-$1,000. It is about 2-3" longer and weighs 10 more oz at 30oz, but will be your best budget option for what you are looking for. Again, my opinion on what I would do.
 
For a compact in that weight range, I think your only option will be to upgrade to the 2.5-10 NXS. I have one of those too and it's not necessarily a better scope, just more/different features. The trade off for zero stop is taller more intrusive turrets and exposed windage. I do like the NXS compact though.
I recently bought a used 2.5-10 NXS and agree with your comments. I have a question for you though. On the one I have the parallax adjustment is very easy to move. I also noticed that when on higher magnification when parallax is turned the POA changes. I initially thought this was because my eye wasn't behind the scope properly. But I could not find a position behind the scope which allowed me to change parallax and have the POA remain in the same spot.

Is your parallax adjustment very easy to turn?
 
I recently bought a used 2.5-10 NXS and agree with your comments. I have a question for you though. On the one I have the parallax adjustment is very easy to move. I also noticed that when on higher magnification when parallax is turned the POA changes. I initially thought this was because my eye wasn't behind the scope properly. But I could not find a position behind the scope which allowed me to change parallax and have the POA remain in the same spot.

Is your parallax adjustment very easy to turn?

Yes it is easy to turn. I also do not like that parallax near as much on the NXS as I do my SHV models. It is not marked with yardage and can be very finicky.

But I have not noticed it changing POI... I have my NXS compact on a 6.5 CM that I have only shot to 600 yards, so I haven't really stretched it out. But for that rifle I don't plan on shooting at anything over that 500-600 yard range, so I just haven't played with it out any further.

Someone else might be an expert on that POI shift, but I don't know what might be causing it.
 
On the scopes I have without a zerostop, all I do is denote which rev the turret is zeroed on, write that on a piece of gorilla tape with a sharpie and attach to the top of the turret. I have never lost zero doing this.
 
You're going to want to go to the SHV F1 model, or a NXS or ATACR. The 3-10 is a pure hunting scope in my opinion.

If you can return or resell the 3-10, you should be able to find a used in good condition 4-14 SHV F1 for $900-$1,000. It is about 2-3" longer and weighs 10 more oz at 30oz, but will be your best budget option for what you are looking for. Again, my opinion on what I would do.
 
How do you go about buying a used to go when you can't return it to the person that you bought it from? How do you determine if it's functioning correctly
 
How do you go about buying a used to go when you can't return it to the person that you bought it from? How do you determine if it's functioning correctly

Prayer helps. ;)

I've bought several NF's and only one was new from a dealer, the others were used, over the Internet. Not a problem with any of them, but if there had been a problem, I know NF would probably fix it at little or no charge.

I have owned several NXS's and the parallax is not "too easy to turn" on any of them. If one were, I'd call NF and get a RMA to send it in.
 
I have a 4-14 SHV and had a similar problem. I ended up using a ring to fit under the turret between it and the scope to limit downward travel. You could probably buy a piece of plastic and sand it to fit. And someone definitely sells it for like $20, which seems too expensive for what it is.

I drew one online and 3D printed it at the local library for free. Had to do some sanding in all dimensions, but it works. Only issue I could see is if you really cranked down on it then you'd be pulling up on the erector. That being said, I don't use it to perfectly mark my zero, I just have it there so I can't go a full revolution past my zero and I know to dial back up to zero, if that makes sense. If you're interested and can't figure out how to make one, send me a PM and I can throw one in an envelope and mail it over, I made extras.
 
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