what is your favorite LR broadhead?

Before buying anything, make sure your bow is tuned like @Fogman77 described above. Make sure your arrows are stiff enough. I've always been able to tune a bow to shoot a stiff shaft well. After that, I highly recommend 125 gr. G5 Strikers.
 
200 grain GrizzlyStik XXl fixed blade. Its a 2" cut
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When setting up for a longer range western or tundra hunt, I always reach for my two blades. They are solids - not vented, but I have never had a properly tuned setup let me down.

I've taken a ton of caribou and speed goats at 100+ yards with zero issues, and that's even with substantial wind.

One key that I've found (as others have alluded to here) are to shoot the heaviest/stiffest setup you can tune well from your bow. I've never shot anything less than a 125 broadhead, and nothing less than a 600 grain arrow. I don't get super techy with the whole FOC thing - just find a setup that is on the heavier side of the spectrum and that tunes perfectly from your bow. You should be able to bare shaft tune out to 50-60 yards without issue. If this tuning is spot on, you should be able to close your eyes and pick a perfectly balanced broadhead and it should shoot well. I just have had the best luck with 2 blades as most are heated to an insert so I could spin test them until they met my personal opinion of balanced.
 
Its hard to argue with a thorn GI in a 4mm shaft. You can shoot and tune each actual broadhead/arrow combo with out ever dulling your blades. When it comes to hitting behind the pin there not a much better setup.
 
These are the most accurate broadheads for me.

Crossbow - Sevr 2.0 100g
Compound bow - Slick Trick 100g
Stick bow - old bear heads
 
Mechanicals. I have shot so many different types of heads. 2 blade, 3 blade, 4 blade...1 piece, fixed blade, replaceable.... I too tune and build everything myself. Weight sort all components, tune, re-tune, nock tune, bareshaft tune, broadhead tune, torque tune, tiller tune...blah blah blah. Mechanicals fly the straightest with no BS. This is my experience as with many of the archers in my camp. Everything I've twisted on the front of my arrows tunes and flys different no matter how you're tuned. I experienced less tuning time and more shooting time the day i switched to mechanicals.
 
I am a fan of the 1 1/8 day six evo. I have passed thru and killed 3 bull elk with them. My taw is 564. I shoot a 70 lb hoyt at around 264 fps. Hope this helps
 
I am a fan of the 1 1/8 day six evo. I have passed thru and killed 3 bull elk with them. My taw is 564. I shoot a 70 lb hoyt at around 264 fps. Hope this helps
I bought half a dozen day 6 evos when i bought my day 6 arrows. The slick tricks group better in the wind, and i am always shooting in wind. Day 6 is a great company, with great products. I spun all 24 shafts i bought from them, and they were all straight as could be. I cannot say the same for others. I should probably order some more 275's.
 
I've ran Easton Axis and thunderheads for a long while. I've only done a small amount of bare shaft tuning ever. I have always fletched blazers with a helical that line up to the blades. On two different bows there was never a shift in POI from field tips. I think it's mostly about bow tuning and good shafts with enough weight up front but matching the vanes and blades makes me feel better. For what that's worth 🤣 oh, same with Muzzys before.
 
Anything Grim Reaper. I love their pro crossbow 3 blade for my Ravin. Nothing makes it more than 15 yards and the blood trail is unbelievable
 

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