Where to zero?

MOA

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Nov 10, 2001
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Location
California
I will be receiving a LRF 1200 tomorrow. I sold my Bushnell 1000 when I heard how great they were. Now with hunting season approaching quickly I need to decided where to zero my scope. I'm shooting a 270 WSM and live out west where shots can be long. Right now I'm shooting a .433 BC bullet at 3300 (130 gr) and it's only about 2.5" high at one hundred with a 275 yard zero. I'm considering zeroing it at 100 to make the math straight forward for extended ranges. It's only 2 inches low at 200 yards so theoretically I can hold dead on out to at least 250, and anything further I'd want to range anyways. Can you guys offer some opinion on where to zero your rifle when using a range finder?
 
I presume your going to click your scope (from your drop chart) to any yardage range the rangefinder reads?

Zero it to 100 yards and make up your drop chart from that point.

No hold over in LR hunting. Either use a dot, or mill system or click to any yardage you intend to shoot.

I prefer to click aftyer I zero to 100 yards.

Darryl Cassel
 
Thanks Darryl, That's what I'll do. I usually shoot a 338 RUM that is has a LR Leupold on it. This rifle has a Leu 4.5-14 by 40mm on it. I threw on some aftermarket target knobs and will give them a try.
 
MOA, I am guessing your target knobs are by Stoney Point. They are only registered for one revolution which I believe is 12 MOA on your scope. After one revolution, you are on your own for remembering where you are.

Not a good setup for LR shooting where adjustments can exceed one revolution. If you have the time, send the scope back to Leupold and have a target turrent installed on the elevation knob. These knobs are great! Have a vernier type scale and clearly marked increments. Very nice adjustment for visual and feel. I think it costs $45.

You can leave the Stoney point on the windage. You will never need more then one revolution for wind. At a few MOA of adjustment, it is too windy to shoot at game LR.

Good luck...

Jerry
 
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