Hi all, I have reached a place where I need some wisdom. Been reloading for almost a year now. Shooting a savage LRP .243 with 9.25 twist. Have a couple loads I really like, 95gr Sierra over imr4350 and 105 gr Amax over imr4350. If i do my part I'm at 1/4" moa @100 yds withe the sierras and .400" with Amax @ 100 yds. Finally got to shoot some distance (400 yds). This is the farthest I have ever shot but wanting to get to 1000. I understand that this caliber is not ideal but what I want to make a project out of so please no replies suggesting another caliber or manufacturer as this thread is solely seeking advice on how to improve with what I've got. My groups at 400 were not exact as I was shooting a 6" steel plate but approx 2.5 -3". I was pleased with first effort but also understand that it is nothing special. I want to tighten these up. I'm getting 2870 fps muzzele which works down range in the ballistic calculator for staying supersonic at 1000. I'm using win brass, cci primers. Both bullets .005 off lands. Any suggestions what to tweak from here? Any help is appreciated as I feel like things are in a stagnant place.
Where do I go from here?
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ShtrRdy
Well-Known Member
It sounds to me like you have a good recipe to make it happen. To reach the longest range possible, a "heavy for caliber" bullet is the way to go. For the .243 this has been typically 105 gr. You might consider trying the Berger 105 gr VLD.
Or you could just go with the 95 gr. It's close to the 105 and it sounds like you have a good load.
Your shooting experience to date might have been tainted by the wind messing with you. If you have a good repeatable scope I would think you could go for that 1000 target with what you have.
Or you could just go with the 95 gr. It's close to the 105 and it sounds like you have a good load.
Your shooting experience to date might have been tainted by the wind messing with you. If you have a good repeatable scope I would think you could go for that 1000 target with what you have.
ShootnMathews
Well-Known Member
It sounds like you've got a good enough combo there now. Providing the scope is adequate enough to get there. Judging by what you said I'm guessing you're looking at 12" groups at 1000 under ideal conditions.
Yeah, I'm a realistic person. I will prob never compete, this is for me only. Though I think we are never really satisfied a starting goal would be 12" plate at 1000. My current optic is a vortex viper PST 6-24x50. I have researched this for quite some time and know you can take it as far as your willing to go but I haven't reached a stopping point yet but feel that I need some tips or tricks of the craft. More load development? Different brass, primers, etc? Or simply learn to shoot what I've got? I can shoot at 100 yds at home but currently haven't had opportunity to shoot at distance often...busy. I know shooting form is huge and have had no professional training. All that being said I love it and am hooked. Not looking for shortcuts as I have learned that just doing it is a great education but I don't know anyone around here that is experienced in long range shooting so everything I have learned is from reading these forums.
Your set-up is definitely capable. Refine your load and more range time; as you noted there is no short cut ... it does not happen overnight. Practice, practice, practice ...
Good luck!
ShootnMathews
Well-Known Member
That's great. Glad to see you get into it. As far as form goes, the best I can tell you is to be consistent in your form. Consistent cheek weld and sight picture, consistent positioning, and consistent shoulder pressure on the butt of the stock is important. Imagine if you were trying to jump forward for distance and jump twice pushing off of a block wall and once off of a plush couch. You're not going to have the same momentum off of the couch. Having consistent pressure on your shoulder will have an affect down range.
Always preload your bipod with a consistent amount of pressure.
Consistency = accuracy. That includes all aspects of the shot from the brass prep thru the load, the rifle and the way you hold the rifle.
When you are set up on the target the rifles natural point of aim should be on the target. Don't set up close to the target and then try to push or wallow the rifle around to get on target. I hold the rifle VERY loosely with my trigger hand. My grip is ONLY snug enough to be able to control my trigger squeeze. Keep the last segment of your trigger finger perpendicular to the rifle. Use the last 3/8 - 1/2" of your trigger finger and squeeze the trigger straight back. If you're not squeezing the trigger straight in line with the stock you can impart lateral stringing at a distance. A good scope level will do wonders at long range too. I've shot my whole life and always thought I held the rifle perfectly vertical until I bought a level a few years ago. Even now when I shoot the level is very enlightening. I can be positive the rifle is vertical, glance at the level and the rifle be canted several degrees.
Good luck. Hope something in there helps
EricL
Well-Known Member
As was already stated watch the wind real close, and practice lots! I mean if your shooting .25 you must be doing the shooting part right so now just work on learning were to dial/hold to keep it that way out there were the wind and weather reeks havoc on many a good shooter and rifle
I have the same rifle and love it! Hit a coyote at about 700 just yesterday evening with it.
I have the same rifle and love it! Hit a coyote at about 700 just yesterday evening with it.
Kansaswoodguy
Well-Known Member
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Get a chronograph I recommend a Magneto Speed get your SD down in the single digits this will help tremendously with vertical spread at 1000 yards. A Scope level is a must in my opinion. Might need 20moa scope mounts or rail, Weaver makes a 20moa rail for around $45 depending on your scope and load there may not be enough adjustment in your scope to get to 1000 yards without it. I have a couple of them on my long range guns. If you don't already have them pick up a 3/8" 12" or 16" AR500 steel target or bigger if your budget allows, paint them white with cheapest white spray paint you can find, between the instant sound and sight feedback of shooting steel this can really help with form and it's a lot of fun. Run the heavy for caliber bullets with high BC's they buck the wind the best you can dial elevation guessing the wind is lot harder.
The .243 is an excellent long range caliber. 6mm's are very popular in 1000 yrd competition. Great ballistics with low recoil. The .243 is a known barrel burner so you may be barreling before you really want to. Most of the long range calibers are barrel burners.
I would recommend working up a load with the 105 berger VLD jammed 0.01 into the lands. Now I really like the Lapua scenar L 105. I would give it a shot too!
Powders? see what your rifle likes. h4350 or h4831 SC would be my starting picks.
I use Lapua brass. Eliminates a lot of your brass prep. Most consistent out there in my opinion.
I use CCI BR primers
as mentioned above a crony is very useful for load development and required to develop range cards or use something like the kestrel.
Getting those SD's down into single digits is very important at longer ranges.
at that point it is your reloading consistency that is most important. Lot to learn there. Top quality components and accurate powder charges will take you a long way. Measuring and sorting finished rounds for concentricity will help a lot too.
Getting those SD's down into single digits is very important at longer ranges.
at that point it is your reloading consistency that is most important. Lot to learn there. Top quality components and accurate powder charges will take you a long way. Measuring and sorting finished rounds for concentricity will help a lot too.
Thanks for all good info. I do have a chronograph, a cheap Caldwell, but never the less fairly accurate. I ave velocity of five shots to use for entering in ballistic calc for drop chart. Couple of questions: 1. Do I enter G7 or G1 in calc? I've entered both and noticed slight variance in data. 2. Neck size or full length? Currently full length sizing as I haven't purchased a neck sizing die. I've read arguments for both.
what I did is download the Applied Ballistic app to my phone. It is cheap. It has a bullet library. all you have to do is fill in the blanks and it will show a very accurate drop chart or you can put in your range and it will give you your dial ups.
as for neck sizing and full length sizing both have their proponents I do both.
If you neck size you have your choice of bushing dies or collet dies. I don't like the donut you get from the bushing dies so I use a lee collet die. You will just have to experiment and see what you like best. Eventually you will have to full length resize your brass neck sizing. When it gets tight to chamber time to do it.
If you full length resize with factory dies then I recommend using the hornady headspace gauge on a fired case. Then set your die up for about a 0.0015 shoulder bump. Most of those in benchrest and other competitions that are full length resizing are using custom dies made to match their chamber. The amount they actually size the brass is very little.
d11r529
Well-Known Member
I've been shooting the 243 for some time now and have several with different twists. My 1/7 twist longest coyote is 1237 yards with a 115 gr berger. With my 1/8 twist the longest coyote was taken this year at 929 yards with a 105 HPBT Hornady. With the 1/9.25 the longest coyote to date is 556 yards with a 87 gr V-Max. I have no trouble, other then the wind, hitting my 12 inch steel plate at 1000 yards with a 105 gr anything or above. I'm also very consistent with 95 gr and below out to 850 yards, I can get hits at 1000 with those but not with consistency. As your just getting started in the longer ranges I wouldn't change anything with your rig or your load but would practice, practice and then practice some more. In order to make the long shots on those coyotes my brother and I, weather permitting shoot 3 to 5 time a week. If the place you shoot will allow, set up a gallon jug of water at 1000 yards and send 3 shots at it each time you practice, the more I shoot at 1000 and beyond the easier 600 and in gets.
