What to get to clean my rifle?

newgunner

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Sep 26, 2011
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Hopefully this week my P.A.L finally arrives and I can take my 700 home from purgatory. Is there a particular kit that is stocked with everything I will need, or should I piece a kit together? What solvents are recommended for my new toy? Is a bore snake the way to go or get a bore guide and use a rod? I think I have read enough on how to break in the barrel ( 3-5 shots clean, repeat for 50 rounds then every 10 rounds and clean for 50 more.) Do the kits already come with everything needed or do I have to add?
 
Call Sinclair. They have everything you need.

1) Quality bore guide.
2) Quality, one piece rod....either SS or coated. There are two schools of thought on that one. I have the Dewey (sp) coated rod(s). I use two...one with a jag and one with a brush...saves time.
3) Take you pick on the juice...I use Butches bore shine, Sweets copper remover, JB bore paste, ISSO, Wipe out foam and liquid, and good break cleaner to clean everything up. It was stated on this form somewhere that a good carberator cleaner will remove carbon...I will find out soon enough.
4) Jags...I use Dewey in the proper caliber. I also have them in smaller calibers for when I want to patch in something, like copper remover, and leave as much as possible in the bore. Too tight a fit and you do not leave much in the bbl. Get a few of them...they are cheap.
5) Brushes.....I use bronze brushes....a lot of them. Get them a dozen at a time. Also get a couple of nylon brushes.
6) Patches...Get LOTS of them....For a 30 and 28 cal I use the 2 1/4 square. For the 6.5 and 6mm I use the 1 3/4 in squares.
7) Get an action cleaning tool...I grease my lugs a lot, so I clean my action every time I clean the bore.
8) Get a good bore mop. I always put a patch on the mop....gets the patches dirty instead of the mop...they last forever that way.
9) Get a tube of action grease...kind of like a plastic syringe(sp). I also use some very lightweight oil in my bore after cleaning and on my bolt.
10) I recomend a bolt dissasembly tool....saves time and some skin.

Get a good kit to store everything. Get rod storage casses.
 
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Hopefully this week my P.A.L finally arrives and I can take my 700 home from purgatory. Is there a particular kit that is stocked with everything I will need, or should I piece a kit together? What solvents are recommended for my new toy? Is a bore snake the way to go or get a bore guide and use a rod? I think I have read enough on how to break in the barrel ( 3-5 shots clean, repeat for 50 rounds then every 10 rounds and clean for 50 more.) Do the kits already come with everything needed or do I have to add?

Here are two really good reads on the subject. (just click)

Bore Brushing--How Much is Too Much?

Bore Cleaning Method

Jon
 
I keep hearing about this "wipe out".. what exactly does it do and what makes it different than other cleaning products?

It has a soapy feel to it. It isn't real harsh like some of the other solvents. It cleans copper out really well. You do have to let it set for good penetration. When breaking in the barrel, I let it set for about a half hour for the first 5-10 shots. When I am doing a thorough cleaning, I will let it set in the barrel overnight. It won't damage your barrel if you start cleaning and forget about it for a few days. You do have to use stainless steel or nickel equipment when using this stuff. You can get a false copper reading if you use brass rods and jags to clean. It's essentially a no scrub solution also. Run the first down soaked to get the initial powder residue out, then push a swab down soaked with Wipe Out. Run it in and out so that it foams up. Let it set for an hour. Run dry patches through until they stop turning blue. You may need to do this process twice until the barrel is broke in. I like it. It smells nice, and again is not harsh or damaging to the rifling.

Tank
 
It has a soapy feel to it. It isn't real harsh like some of the other solvents. It cleans copper out really well. You do have to let it set for good penetration. When breaking in the barrel, I let it set for about a half hour for the first 5-10 shots. When I am doing a thorough cleaning, I will let it set in the barrel overnight. It won't damage your barrel if you start cleaning and forget about it for a few days. You do have to use stainless steel or nickel equipment when using this stuff. You can get a false copper reading if you use brass rods and jags to clean. It's essentially a no scrub solution also. Run the first down soaked to get the initial powder residue out, then push a swab down soaked with Wipe Out. Run it in and out so that it foams up. Let it set for an hour. Run dry patches through until they stop turning blue. You may need to do this process twice until the barrel is broke in. I like it. It smells nice, and again is not harsh or damaging to the rifling.

Tank
I use the gunslick foaming bore cleaner which I believe is the exact same product under a different label.

Typically I use some Berryman's, or similar carburetor cleaner first to blow out the carbon and then apply the foam. I set the barrel muzzle down on paper towels and repeat the process using the carb cleaner between foamings until it runs clean.

When it's clear I dry patch, then apply a little moly grease or white lithium grease and dry patch it before putting them away.

I've had excellent results.
 
I am a wipeout fan as well. It works great without a lot of brushing if you have the time to wait. When I don't I turn to KG -1, 2, and 12. None of it is harmful to the bore is left in and will make very short work of carbon and copper. The KG-2 is optional really but might be a good substitute to using the others if you want to leave the bore just a little fouled. Normally with the KG cleaners I'll have a clean tube in 30min or less. The KG-1 for carbon has a little odor to it but isn't bad. KG-12 kills the copper in a hurry and is very low odor as well. The KG-2 is more of a bore polish than a solvent. It has a little grit in it. I'm sure you'll find something that works well for you. I'd also have a look at Tipton carbon fiber rods. They are amazing! Not expensive and you can get them long. I use a 54" on my 300wm with brake. Lets me go from bore to muzzle without the stock getting in the way.
 
One more thing. Mike Lucas makes the best bore guides. Many of the top BR shooters use his.

Mike Lucas
phone: (803) 356-0282 (Tues., Wed., and Thurs., 9:00 am to 5:00 pm EST.)
Please use E-mail if possible.

225 Browns River Road
Lexington, SC 29072
email: [email protected]


Jon
 
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